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Ensure the line on the timing rotor with a T next to it is aligned with the notch in the timing window
Starting with the rear cylinder, ensure the camshaft locating dowel is aligned with the mark on the cylinder head at about 1 o'clock
Engage cam sprocket with cam chain so it will line up with the dowel & fit onto camshaft
The mark on the sprocket should now also line up with the other marks. Turn the cam sprocket clockwise to remove all slack in the chain, push against the runner through the cam chain tensioner hole to take up slack, this re-aligns all the marks
Bolt cam sprocket to shaft & fit tensioner. Turn crankshaft until the other line on the rotor aligns with the notch in the timing window
Repeat the above process for the front cylinder
I ran one of those on several 60s-70s Triumphs.....great ignition!
Both plugs fire at the same time so there is no left/right to worry about.
Remove spark plugs and gap .018. Remove timing cover (right hand side of engine) over battery ignition points.
Disconnect and tape (insulate) all battery connected wires. Better yet, unhook battery hot wire from battery terminal.
Hold breaker cam in opposite direction of rotation (advanced position) and rotate engine until the points on #1 cylinder just start to open. Note: Use .0015 feeler gauge.
Remove breaker plate, breaker cam advance mechanism, and dowel pin from internal taper if your model used a dowel pin to position breaker cam and advance mechanism. CAUTION Do Not Rotate Engine. If engine is rotated, reverse rotation until piston is down and the cylinder at least one inch before top center on the compression stroke.
Rotate engine in normal direction of rotation until piston is 5/16 from top center on compression stroke. Install magnetos adaptor plate and adaptor shaft in cam taper. DO NOT TIGHTEN SHAFT. CAUTION 1963 to 1970 Triumph unit construction twins have a different length taper on shaft and internal threads are dissimilar. Suggest checking threads and taper. 1963 to 1970 bolt has BSF 1/4 x 26 threads. 1971 and later bolt had 1/4 x 28 thread. Early shafts are marked with the letter "A". Later shafts are marked with "B".
NOTE: Some applications will require drilling and tapping engine with 1/4 x 20 for better security of magneto mounting adapter. Some customers with severe service report that they heli aced adaptor to cam cover with approximately one inch length bead, top and bottom for security.
Remove Magneto cover. With shaft slightly loose in taper mount Magneto so that points are just starting to open and bolts are approximately in center of slot (for timing adjustment later).
Carefully remove Magneto and tighten center bolt in shaft. Re-install Magneto and time. Install cover and plug wires. Hook up ground wire to a separate kill switch to ground only. DO NOT HOOK ANY BATTERY CURRENT TO MAGNETO.
Point Gap .012 to .015
Your shifter cam bolt has backed out, this is a common problem on earlier GSXR's. Happened twice on my 2000, both times during race weekends.
Stop riding the bike and shifting at all and do the following repair:
Remove clutch cover - you'll drain some oil so make sure you have a drip pan underneath
Remove the 5 the clutch housing plate bolts - careful as they have pretty stiff springs behind them providing torsion
Remove all the clutch plates - make sure you keep the same order and re-install the same way; matter of fact if you have never replaced your clutch plates, do it along with this repair.
Once the clutch case is basically empty, you will see at the lower left a small assembly that looks a bit like a tuning fork, at the end of the shifter shaft. There is also a cam there with rounded cogs. There is a 8mm or 10 mm hex head bolt that holds this cam, and I'm sure it has backed out and is causing the cam and shifter to not engage the gears properly.
Remove the cam bolt. Spray some compressed air or even a light spray of brake cleaner in the threaded area where the bolt you just removed is. Make sure the threads are clean and dry.
Place the cam bolt and assembly back in its position, and take some RED loctite to the shifter cam bolt threads. Make sure to torque the bolt to specifications, I think it's 24 or 28 nm.
Let the bolt set for 24-8 hours, then reassemble the clutch and replace the clutch cover gasket. Top off the oil and go riding.
I'd be interested in knowing how the cam chest cover cam off changing a gear box gasket but.
In order to get the cams back in and to insure their proper timing, I'd put the rocker arms out. I'd pull them all out but you're free to do whatever you wish. Remove the top and middle rocker cover on the front clinder. Remove the large bolt that hold the lower plate and the rocker arm for the front cylinder in. Tap the rocker arm shaft out of the rocker arm and remove the rocker arm. You can then get your cam into position. Now, to get rocker shaft back in, rotate the engine until the front exhaust cam has the valve in it's closed position. Reinstall the rocker arm and shaft and torque the bolt to 25 foot pounds. Reassemble the upper and middle rocker box covers.
To replace the head gasket disconnect the battery, remove the tank, remove the rocker cover. Manually turn the crank shaft until the engine is on top dead center compression stroke and the lines on the cam shaft gears are even with the top of the cylinder head. At that point evenly loosen the bolts that hold the cam shaft. Do one cam shaft at a time. Before you remove the second cam shaft tie a piece of wire to the cam chain then let the chain fall into the hole after removing the second cam. Loosen the carburator mounts and slide the carburators back so they are free of the engine. Now you can evenly loosen the head bolts and then remove the head. Check the head and cylinder for signs of warping or why the gasket needs to be changed. When you replace the head gasket make sure the gasket fits over the guide pins. Reassembly is essentially reverse of the disassembly. After you get the head torqued to specs, you will be glad you fought that wire attached to the cam chain when you start to install the cams. Make sure each cam goes back from where you took it from and the lines line up like they were before you took them out. Don't forget to install a new gasket on the rocker box.