I was changing spark plug on top of engine and the plug broke the ceramic part of it and a little thing inside of the ceramic part that looks like long piece lighter flint fell down the plug hole. what can I do to get it out??
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I have a few tips about spark plugs you might find helpful, alongside watching some youtube videos
1. did you know you can use a multi-meter to test and see the continuity is correct. (more helpful when making sure all 4 or 6 plugs are offering the same spark)
2. as for the spark-plug designs,. the shorter the Ceramic end the hotter the plug gets. so sometimes you can affect overheating by lengthening the plug length, or vice versa.
3. the GAP you can just google the spark-plug number and put the word GAP. it will give you the gap manufacturers recommends .
4. you can also adjust spark by shortening the gap, to make it fire faster, with less spark, or make GAP bigger to increase the spark length and make it longer. (in the olden days, they used to make some fine tuning in these areas)
i.e. most people now don't know much about spark-plugs so they just use the factory default, when a manual is telling you to use a certain spark-plug Manufacturers Number, they also mean for you to use the GAP that is factory Set.
5 it is good to measure the GAP on all plugs even brand new, since they can change from being tapped by accident in shipping.
6. the gap is measured with a tool that has approx. 6 different thickness wires, or spacers, and some kind of small bending device, for you to make adjustments to the upper lever arm on the spark pin.
the GAP on all spark plugs, share a range of approx.6mm .
as I mentioned the length of ceramics, affects heat more than GAP.
So in most cases it is best to use recommended spark plug, BECAUSE THE LENGTH OF THE END GOING INTO CHAMBER NEEDS TO NOT HIT THE BOTTOM OF THE PLUG WITH PISTON
I have a Bicycle Motorized, a few Electric Bikes, 2 Scooters, 50cc, 125cc, and Rat Roadster
all the things I said should give you an idea of what I know, please watch youtube videos, alongside with my advice for reference, be careful with spark-plugs to always HAND TIGHTEN. and not STRIP THE THREAD ON THE ENGINE. especially with cheep china motors.
quick tip. if you have a head that can bolt on any direction with a slant plug., turn plug angle away from intake port. and towards exhaust port. . if you want more power. port the cylinder intake(pitted to cause fuel to get spread) and the exhaust smooth, and made larger. have fun, & always good to be practicing these port adjustments to a spare cylinder if they only cost $40.
NEVER USE SANDPAPER TO CLEAN AND REUSE PLUGS.
UNLESS YOU CAN BLOW THEM OUT TOTALLY WITH HIGH AIR PRESSURE. since any sand from the paper that gets into you cylinder will cause minor and small long term damage. THINK AHEAD ALWAYS GOOD TO BUY A NEW PLUG FOR $3 over RECYCLED
oh and I don't ever waste money on d'em expensive plugs replacements, they all do the exact same thing, the multi-meter test I marked is more important, reason to take one over the other, the different power is not achieved by quality. a regular champion copper plug is always good for me. and if it fails I replace them.
the difference between the 2 cycle plugs and 4,6,8 cylinder plugscrapis more about cutting engine noise with the stuff inside the upper-mid part of the ceramic housing.
*unless you own a TOYOTA .DENZO OEM PLUGS ARE 10 year plugs but 10x the price. I recommend DENZO only for TOYOTA
all the other plugs are the same ****, designed to fire at the same exact temps, and spark and everything. that is how they are all interchangeable, and your car doesn't go faster from changing between brands, they are all designed to fit within exact manufacturers specs. so don't get excited with the special packaging or shapes. or metals they will claim to use... to achieve the exact same numbers as the cheaper version they make themselves. quite funny to see , once you get to the spark plug isle and see the COLORFUL selection
last tip on spark plugs, never put them near your wind shield. they can break glass with a little drop from a few inches away.
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ok first you sed you took spark plug out an checked for spark so the next thing is to look for coil cause some times it can get some rust or many other things but take flywill off an take a small strip pf fine sand paper dut works the best is a womans fingernail file strip off the fine side of one an run it accurse the top of the coil it should have a small tip on it kinda looks like a battery the positive has that little round tip but do not file it to much just so you can see clean meatl then leave the cap that covers the flywill off just so you wont have to go through takeing it off again seconed thing if that dosent work check your spark plug wire oh an when you take the flywill off sand the inside if it an the outer as well hope I helped yeah an if you would like you can call me at 1 417 818 4091
All engines need three things, fuel, spark and compression.
What I do is first be sure, be positive, I have fresh fuel, and spark plug is clean, while the plug is out, spin the engine over for 10-15 seconds to clear the cylinder. I made a nifty spark checker out of a spark plug clamped with a hose clamp to an alligator clamp from an old battery charger, or like one on jumper cables. Clamp it firmly to the engine, attach spark lead and spin the engine, see if you have a steady blue spark. That being OK, put plug back in, choke off, ignition on spray a little starter fluid directly into the carb/air cleaner, and try to start, if it starts even for just a little the problem is with your fuel system. If it does nothing your spark isn't holding up or out of time, OR somethings wrong inside, and a compression check is in order.
Give this much a try and write back with more details, and best of luck.
Busted spark plugs? what do you mean? You broke the ceramic tops? replace with new plugs and be careful installing them when removing the socket, the socket goes straight on and straight off do not pry it side ways you will crack the ceramic top.
Buell Blasts have a known issue involving the carb boot. If the bike is a couple of years old check out the rubber spacer/conector which is betwwen the carb and the engine. Chances are that it is cracked and allowing air to enter direcly. This will cause your bike to sputter and have starting issues. Chck this out first and if it is not this then check the spark plug what color is the ceramic electrode and tip. This will tell you alot about what is going on inside the engine. The carb boot is a cheap fix less than 20 bucks. Good luck Brian
Never change your spark plugs without the engine being cold. Wait
two hours after driving to let it cool off. Grasp the plug wire by the
boot, give the wire a twist and cautiously pull the spark plug wire out
of the end of the spark plug. Don’t pull the wires themselves or you
may damage them. TIP: changing the plugs one helps avoid mixing up the
spark plug wires.
Use either a bicycle tire pump or an air compressor and pump a few
bursts of air to rid the spark plug area of dirt, dust or gravel.
Alternatively, clean off the old plug and the area around it with a rag
or small brush. These steps help prevent any foreign material from
falling down into the cylinder when the plug is removed.
Remove the plug by turning it counterclockwise with a spark plug
socket and ratchet. Spark plug sockets have rubber linings that prevent
damaging the plug’s ceramic case. Crack it loose, spin it out until
it’s off the threads, and take it out by hand.