Question about 2002 kawasaki KLX 650 R

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Drive chain rubbing on frame klx650 - 2002 kawasaki KLX 650 R

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Can you adjust the chain to not do this. move the tire backwards to adjust for this.

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

  • Jeff Workman
    Jeff Workman Mar 03, 2009

    i meant can you adjust chain by moving rear tire backwards.

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So Im just a mom trying to help her kiddo, he races flat track and supermoto, I'm not a mechanic but his dad throws that role on me all the time, anyways I need to switch tires out on my sons Honda 70 for...


they should fit but im not sure the profiles will be right ,, and as long as they spin with couple mms between wheel and frame should be ok , ,

Oct 29, 2014 | Motorcycles

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Why do i have a slight rubbing/ticking noise from very low speed coasting on my bike?


lots of reasons .......could be chain rubbing on chain guide if it has a chain,or may be worn out chain,.........could be tire rubbing ....check and make sure both tires are evenly spaced between forks and swing arm.....if it has a chain guard make sure chain is not rubbing on guard....Best way to check is to put it on it's double kick stand and start the bike put it in gear and let the tire spin at idle and listen and look for the problem.

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Kawasaki klx650 won't start


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Oct 30, 2013 | kawasaki KLX 650 R Motorcycles

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Hi, question abt my bicycle is why does the chain run against the frame at the rear? All things are stock,tanx


TRY TO PUT WASHERS BETWEEN FRAME AND CHAIN SPROCKET TO SHIM THE AXLE/CHAIN AWAY FROM FRAME.

Oct 07, 2012 | Motorcycles

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Hey I bought a used Stryker about a year ago and since Yesterday i think my chain got more loose. While driving the Vehicle appears to be jumping forward, espacally bad it is when accelerating, then inside...


sounds like the chain is that loose it is slipping on the cog/s, check the cogs for wear ie no tooth damage, adjust the chainif cogs ok. better still change cogs and chain to be safe.

Sep 04, 2011 | 2005 Kymco Stryker 125

1 Answer

Rear wheel assembly for flstc 1994 rear wheel is not centring,too far over to the left, drive belt is rubbing on wheel


Unless someone has changed a spacer or something , the rear wheel should be centered with the frame, not necessarily the swingarm. The rear brake caliper bracket acts as the spacer on the right side and there is a spacer on the left side. This spacer on the left side should be just short enough to get into the swingarm without a lot of excess space once installed. You should not be squeezing your swingarm more than 0.125 inch or so.

Now, there are other things that will cause the tire to rub the final drive belt. Too wide tire will do this. The '94 models used the old style wide belts unlike the narrower belt used by the later models. If you install a like is on a later model, it's too wide and will probably rub. The next reason for tire belt interference is the rear tire not being adjusted correctly and it is not under the bike straight. Adjust the rear wheel by measuring the length of the adjuster bolt relative to the axle. These measurements should be the same on both sides of the swingarm. If you can't do that, find something about six feet long that you can use as a straight edge to check the alignment of the rear wheel to the front wheel. Keep in mind that there is an offset designed into the front wheel. Just make sure that the rear wheel is as straight relative to the frame as you can get it.

Even with all this stuff correctly set, the final drive belt will be close to the side of the tire but it should not rub.

Feb 28, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

Chain is rubbing on rear wheel arm


This is normal - at least it should be if the appropriately named rubbing strip is installed. 
The top of the chain will run on this by design. 
If rubbing strip is worn or missing, it should be replaced. 
Be sure not to overtighten the chain to attempt to alleviate this. 

Jul 04, 2009 | 2004 Triumph Speed Four

1 Answer

Grinding noise


If the 'grinding' only happens when the bike is in motion, the problem is probably not inside the engine. Remove the chain and then start the motor. Put it in gear(s) and listen for the noise. No noise eliminates the engine as the problem.

Now lay the chain on the concrete and 'compress the chain in a straight line. Mark the end of the chain on the concrete. Now hold on to one end of the chain and stretch the chain. Did it stretch more than one inch? Replace it if it did. Look at the chain. is it rusted? Is it limber or do the links resist bending? Replace the chain if rusty and stiff.

While you are doing all this, check the rear wheel. Does it spin freely. Make any noise? Does the rear brake go on and off properly? Next check your sprockets. A bad sprocket will ruin a new chain. The ends of the teeth on the sprocket should be rounded. A worn sprocket shows pointed teeth. I have seen teeth so pointed they could pop a balloon. LOOK at both sides of the front and back sprockets. Are they rubbing against anything anywhere? Look at the chain, any rubbing? Is the tire rubbing on anything? Did the prior owner install heavier sprockets and bigger chain than stock sprockets and chain? > Check with the dealer.

Chances are you will find the problem if you do the above.
I hope you can rate this solution as a 'FixYa".

Mar 20, 2009 | 2005 Derbi Senda R 125 4T

2 Answers

Shaft drive to chain drive conversion.


Changing this to chain drive will require some significant expense, you may need to even change the output shaft of the transmission along with multiple case covers. You may be better off running the drive shaft to a differential. I'd suggest looking into some of the newer ATV's that run a differential and perhaps adapt one of them to your application.
The drive shaft sort of limits your ability to adjust the gearing as compared to the chain drive. You may be smarter to find a used Yamaha XS 650 engine and swap all the parts you need out of it to your turbo engine.
On another note, I used to race an OW31 Factory Works Yamaha 750 which was essentially the same basic engine that you are installing the turbo on and I'd like to caution you on cam chains. These baby's eat cam chains if you put more than 100 hp out of them. Dropping a cam chain can be VERY costly, you most likely will destroy pistons, valves, and even bend connecting rods. So if your going to put massive power out of this great little engine make sure you change the cam chain at least before you run it with the turbo. I have seen first hand what carnage happens when you lose the chain.
Best of luck and let me know if you need further assistance.
Regards,
RSelvy

Jan 02, 2009 | 1982 Yamaha XJ 650

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