Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic

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Stalled and has no power

Bike cranked up and idled for about a minute then died, there was no power nothing. checked battery cables, fuses all tight and nothing blown. after about 45 min everything came back on and bike started and ran all the way home.

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Check the battery cables by removing them as they have been known to oxidied under the bolts. Check the negative side (ground) especially where the cable connects to frame again by removing the bolt and cleaning the frame and connection. The negative (ground) connection can also be connected to a bolt just above the starter motor. Check this as well.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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Sparks from touching metal while disconnecting battery; now the bike won't start.


Have you tried disconnecting the battery again? (more carefully, please)

Here's a solution to the "sparking"... ALWAYS disconnect the Negative/Ground cable first. Once that's clear, then you can remove the Positive cable, if needed.

Removing the Negative cable is "safe", as even if you touch the wrench to the frame, that's its normal condition (voltage) anyway, so there's no danger. Once it's removed, there's no way to cause sparks, no matter if you touch the Positive cable to the frame or not... since the Negative is already disconnected. (does that make sense?)

Anyway, disconnect the Negative/Ground for 5 minutes, then reconnect it. If this is a fairly recent bike, it may have confused the ignition computer when you accidentally shorted the cable earlier. This should clear any errors... if that's the problem.

Sometimes it may take more than 5 minutes to clear, that's just the "general rule of thumb". If 5 minutes isn't enough, try 15 minutes or more.

There is a slight possibility of damage to the computer (if there is one) by what you did earlier... let's hope that's not the case!

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Hi, Anonymous the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Fuel tank empty.
13. Gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Sometimes while riding the bike, it stalls after driving for sometime and then experienced hard start until it won't start again. Had battery checked and it was drained. Replaced with a new battery but...


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in aprerage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at "BOTH" ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor.
17. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
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I have a suzuki boulevard c50. The battery died over the winter and had to be charged. It has failed to crank 2 times since then. I jumped it off and rode for about 50 miles home after turning it off it...


It sounds like it is time for a new battery. While the regulator could have been damaged during the jumping procedure, the symptoms you've outlined still point to a bad battery. Motorcycle batteries do not fair well from a complete discharge. Sometimes removing the all of the acid and replacing with new acid will provide another year of service, but not always.

My reasoning for the thinking it is the battery is because of it not being kept charged over the winter and it was working fine before then (charging system usually does not get damaged from non-use). If the bike died when you removed the cable while it was idling, this would suggest the battery as well as a magneto based charging system is very weak at idle and relies on the battery to supplement it during periods of idle. To test my theory, jump the bike off, rev it to 1200 to 1500 RPM and disconnect the jumper cable. If the bike continues to run but dies when you let it idle, then the charging system is functioning and the battery needs to be replaced.

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