Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic

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Stalled and has no power

Bike cranked up and idled for about a minute then died, there was no power nothing. checked battery cables, fuses all tight and nothing blown. after about 45 min everything came back on and bike started and ran all the way home.

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Check the battery cables by removing them as they have been known to oxidied under the bolts. Check the negative side (ground) especially where the cable connects to frame again by removing the bolt and cleaning the frame and connection. The negative (ground) connection can also be connected to a bolt just above the starter motor. Check this as well.

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

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I was driving my 2001 sukuie down thestree, it just died like you yurned the key off and it would not restart, hauled it home and now need to find the problem, it has pleanty of fuel.the lights in the...


wont CRANK or CRANKS Fast but will not start , which is it?
the fuses blew or the battery is dead (discharged)
battery voltage is 12.6vdc rested, if not and is lower, its discharged.

did warning lights come on before the STALL? (died is stall)
if yes, and the charge lamp came on, and was ignored this is normal
for the battery to die. with alternator dead.

try jumper cable starts yet? that be next after fuses. and battery volts. (no cranking)
if it cranks fast, still fuses. check. then check for spark if not a diesel. some GV have Diesels, (3 kinds too)

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There should be a small fuse box near the battery with probably three fuses inside. Have you checked those?

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Check battery and battery connections are clean (wire brush them) and tight.

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If you haven't done it already you might have them run it for codes to see if it is showing any. Autozone does it for free too.

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Sparks from touching metal while disconnecting battery; now the bike won't start.


Have you tried disconnecting the battery again? (more carefully, please)

Here's a solution to the "sparking"... ALWAYS disconnect the Negative/Ground cable first. Once that's clear, then you can remove the Positive cable, if needed.

Removing the Negative cable is "safe", as even if you touch the wrench to the frame, that's its normal condition (voltage) anyway, so there's no danger. Once it's removed, there's no way to cause sparks, no matter if you touch the Positive cable to the frame or not... since the Negative is already disconnected. (does that make sense?)

Anyway, disconnect the Negative/Ground for 5 minutes, then reconnect it. If this is a fairly recent bike, it may have confused the ignition computer when you accidentally shorted the cable earlier. This should clear any errors... if that's the problem.

Sometimes it may take more than 5 minutes to clear, that's just the "general rule of thumb". If 5 minutes isn't enough, try 15 minutes or more.

There is a slight possibility of damage to the computer (if there is one) by what you did earlier... let's hope that's not the case!

Nov 06, 2013 | Qlink Legacy 250 Motorcycles

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Sometimes while riding the bike, it stalls after driving for sometime and then experienced hard start until it won't start again. Had battery checked and it was drained. Replaced with a new battery but...


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in aprerage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at "BOTH" ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor.
17. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

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Make sure your battery cables are tight at both ends. The ground connection on these bikes has a habit of vibrating loose.

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I have a suzuki boulevard c50. The battery died over the winter and had to be charged. It has failed to crank 2 times since then. I jumped it off and rode for about 50 miles home after turning it off it...


It sounds like it is time for a new battery. While the regulator could have been damaged during the jumping procedure, the symptoms you've outlined still point to a bad battery. Motorcycle batteries do not fair well from a complete discharge. Sometimes removing the all of the acid and replacing with new acid will provide another year of service, but not always.

My reasoning for the thinking it is the battery is because of it not being kept charged over the winter and it was working fine before then (charging system usually does not get damaged from non-use). If the bike died when you removed the cable while it was idling, this would suggest the battery as well as a magneto based charging system is very weak at idle and relies on the battery to supplement it during periods of idle. To test my theory, jump the bike off, rev it to 1200 to 1500 RPM and disconnect the jumper cable. If the bike continues to run but dies when you let it idle, then the charging system is functioning and the battery needs to be replaced.

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