Hi, I got a 748 last week. I pulled my clutch discs out to check them. They're ok. Put them back in, bolted on the pressure plate (which was flush with the discs) & now I have no pressure in the clutch lever. Notches are aligned. The clutch slave cylinder works fine. Everything works fine until I bolt the pressure plate on, then it doesn't move out when the lever is pulled in. Can you help?
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Re: no pressure in the clutch lever
It seems you may have refitted it incorrectly the system,especially the springs !, the round ones or the center inside clutch lifter pin which whn operated does not push to lift the pressure ring.
I am not tht experinced withthe duccati but i guess the clutch systems works on the same principles.
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Drain the oil and Pull the clutch cover off. That rod connects to the clutch push button. sounds like it fell out.
Undo all the little clutch cover bolts. Carefully pull the cover off leaving all the clutch plates in a stack as some are different to others usually the first or last plate .Check the center of this plate as that is where the button usually is. Put it all back together and check clutch with cover off. You should see it move away as you pull the lever. Make sure you back off your clutch first.
Hope this helps cheers
Bolt the clutch cable's tensioner on your left lever mount assy.Unbolt the clutch cable's nuts at its bottom mount and pull so that you remove any **** it may has. When you bolt them back on, make sure that the clutch lever has a 2-3cm freeplay (measuring its end ball movement).If you still don't have tension, then you must take off the right hand crancase cover and check the fiction plates as well as the tension springs behind the 4 bolts which mounts the pressure plate against the clutch basket.
Loosen the banjo bolt on the clutch master cylinder, Put a plastic sheet and a rag under the banjo, pump the lever a couple of times till DOT 3/4 brake fluid starts pouring out past the sealing washers. You have now gotten the air out of the master cylinder. Tighten the banjo bolt, bleeding the lines should now be easy.
.25" is more than enough to release the clutch - if this is measured at the "hat" (pressure plate) of the clutch pack.
Most of these kinds of clutch problems are caused by two or three things: Incorrect oil, rusted plates or a notched clutch basket. There is nothing in the clutch pack to separate the clutch discs. The springs on the pressure plate push the stack together and pulling the lever relaxes this pressure, but nothing actually spreads them away from eachother.
If you use SAE motor oil for the transmission you will experience stiction - the suction caused by the oil is enough to keep the discs stuck to eachother pretty tightly. When cold, the stiction can be pretty strong.
If you take off in first then pull the clutch in and rev the engine, will it release then or will it pull just as hard as normal?
Have you blown your water pump seal? Water in the cases can rust the plates pretty quickly which can lock a clutch up tight. Something else to look for.
I suggest taking the discs out and examining your clutch basket and internal hub for notching if you do not feel the oil could be the culprit.
It is important after replacing clutch discs that the 'free play' for the pressure plate is adjusted. First loosen the clutch cable adjuster so there is excessive free play on the clutch lever. Then loosen the locknut on the pressure plate adjustment rod and loosen the rod (turn it clockwise) until there is no pressure then turn it the other way until there is contact. Now turn it the other direction about 1/4 turn and while holding it there tighten the lock nut. After that is complete adjust the clutch handle so there is about 10mm free plat at the end of the lever.
ok, three different possibilities here. first, you replaced your broken lever with a lever that has the hole for the cable end a little closer to the perch, and you dont have enough range of adjustment to tighten up the cable. this is probably the least likely scenario, since you need a very signifigant change in the lever or perch assembly to throw your adjustment off that far. second, your cable may have frayed or just broke. follow the clutch cable all the way to the engine, and keep an eye on the arm that it attatches to. it should move when you pull the lever. if theres no movement, then your cables broken or frayed. if you can see that the cable is pulling on that arm, then your problem may be internal. also less likely though. but as a last resort, if you have the mechanical knowledge, then check behind the pressure plate for anything that may have broken in the assembly that pushes the pressure plate outwards. IM not too familiar with the kawasaki's design, but there may also be an adjustment screw and locknut right in the center of the pressure plate. tightening up just a little usually solves this isssue.
hi,not up to speed on your bike, but if the reservoir is empty then you
have a leak,check master cylinder and work your way down to the slave
cylinder for anything obvious,it mite be very slight leak but over a
long period of time it will empty the reservoir,i know mine
does(748)albeit very slowly,clutch slave cylinder is a favourite place
for leak as it gets quite warm down there,wouldnt have thought you will
need a new clutch
unless it slipping
hope this helps
Sounds like it is not adjusted properly, or you have the clutch misaligned. You can check for proper operation with the bike off, and the clutch cover off while pulling the clutch lever. Should be able to see it move 1/4-3/8 of an inch.
When you put the sprocket cover back on, you've not engaged the clutch push rod correctly in the clutch slave cylinder. As the cover was tightened down it's pushed the slave cylinder piston too far back. Remove the slave cylinder only (3 x 8mm head bolts) and check it operates properly, then ensure the push rod is correctly seated in the depression in the centre of the slave cylinder plate when you bolt it back up. FJ1200's have the same clutch and I had the same problem with my FJ...