An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: SUZUKI INTRUDER 125, WHICH CHAIN SHOULD I BUY
The chain type is 428. take chain off and count # of links.give those 2 #s to parts guy. when you replace a worn chain,the front and rear sprockets should be replaced at the same time, because worn sprockets and a new chain will cause accelerated chain wear. count # of teeth on sprockets & give those 2#s to the parts guy also. if you want a longer wearing chain, buy one w/ the highest tensile strength,once again, parts guy can help you find that.dont forget,lube & adjust chain as needed.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Depending on the number of miles racked up on that machine, any adjustment may not do a bit of good. I'm thinking that a valve adjustment may not even be an option on that model. It just may be, that you may have to replace some things instead.
well first get the bike up on a stand or set it on a milk crate. Loosen up main axle nuts you may need another wrench on the other side to back it up. loosen any small chain adjustment nuts. pull the chain as far back as it can go all the time looking a the chain sag..you want to keep about 5/8 to 1 inch play...lock just the axle nuts down snug...now spin the tire to see that all parts of the chain maintain this amount of sag. if its too tight in one area, you have a "stretched chain", and this will now be the focal point for tightening up the chain...this tighter part must have "some" slack in it...id say give it about 1/2 inch...now tighten up the chain adjustment nuts finger tight and look at your rear sprocket and make sure it lines up perfectly straight on with the counter shaft sprocket up front. Once this is aligned, tighten the smaller nuts snug, then proceed to torque down lightly maybe 10- 20 ftlbs. now spin the tire to check your slack in the chain did it move on you? Then you have to tighten or loosen the chain adjustment nuts a little more in or out till you get it right so it can move into the correct position. Once you got it right torque down on the main axle nuts 50-60ft lbs. Now tighten evenly each chain nut with the same ammount of turns to each....tighten the last nut down hard onto the first so they wont vibrate off. Now you should lube the chain..and your ready to go. after a while of hard riding recheck everything just to make sure shes secure! Can i get a very helpful on this. thanks!
Difficulty in selecting neutral is most likely due to clutch drag. Does the bike jump forwards when you select first gear? This could be due to dry or wrongly adjusted clutch cable. Another though less likely cause could be weak clutch springs or a worn clutch basket. Aim for about 5mm free play at clutch lever.
Brakes will feel spongy if air is in the brake lines. Bleed the brakes. If the chain is slack then loosen rear axle bolt and adjust the chain by moving entire wheel back. Lack of power and taking time to build up speed are usually problems resulting from burnt exhaust valves. Intake valves burn less often than exhaust valves because intake valves have cool gas flowing past them in the intake stroke.