Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FXSTD Softail Duece
I replaced my ignition switch already it was broke so i was wanting to replace fork lock i never have done this, thx . Dave
Hi David, call, take a ride or trailer your bike over to your local dealers service/parts department, I'm sure they will be happy to take your Harley Davidson for a test ride if necessary/possible and offer professional advice and assistance concerning your issue. Good luck have a nice day.
Posted on Jun 28, 2015
No. Remove the caliper mounting bolts, (put a rag under the brake cylinder at the pedal to catch any fluid pushed out by the next step), depress the pads until they will clear the disc, remove the caliper assembly and replace the pads.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
Get the bike standing as straight up as you can without danger of it falling over. This keeps any oil from running out of the primary. Remove the "derby cover" from the outer primary cover giving you access to the clutch adjuster screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate in the primary.
On the clutch cable, slide the rubber boot up or down to expose the adjuster in the cable. It should be on the down tubes of the frame under the fuel tanks. Loosen the lock nut and screw the cable adjuster in as far as it will go thus shortening the cable.
At the clutch back in the primary cover, you'll see a screw that takes a hex allen wrench with a lock nut on it in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Loosen the lock nut and back it off a bit. Screw the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. You want to adjust this in until you feel a resistance, not to the point to where it starts releasing the clutch. Back the screw back out and do this enough times so that you know you are just going to the point of resistance. Turn the screw inward until you get to the point of resistance and then back the screw out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the nut down.
Now, adjust the clutch cable adjuster out making the cable longer You want to adjust the cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the cable lock nut and slide the rubber cover over the adjuster. Test ride the bike. If the clutch does not engage exactly where you want it, use the cable adjuster to fine tune where the clutch engages by lengthing or shortening the cable.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
The fork oil is a very specific job needing a manual and a special tool, I don't want to insult anyones mechanical knowledge but if you have never done it before, best to take somewhere else. Engine oil on the other hand is easy, the drain tube to any softail is on the right side by where the frame meets the swing arm, has somekind of plug in it. Start and run bike for a little while, long enough to get it warm but not hot. Remove fill plug and then remove plug in drain line. Using a peice of cardboard or something put in between filter and frame , directing the oil to your drain pan instead of where ever it goes. Put 1 qt oil back in (after everything is reinstalled) start the bike and make sure the oil light goes out, when it does shut bike off and fill to the point that when it is standing upright you get a little oil on the tip of your finger, over filling may result in loss of oil cap from pressure (been there)
Posted on Feb 16, 2010
If your starter is spinning but the engine is not turning over, you over running clutch or Bendix is bad. On the Nippondenso style starter on the late bikes, this starter clutch is inside of the starter. You must pull the starter off and disassemble it to repair the starter. If you can do the job yourself, you can repair the starter and save some money. If you're going to have to pay a mechanic to do the work, simply replace the starter. Any money saved by repairing the starter in this case would be quickly depleted in labor cost.
Posted on Jun 05, 2011
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