Question about 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

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Sounds like low battery when starter first engages

& noticed a broken wire coming from starter relay that is mounted to rear guard under battery in my 1993 flstf, also when I EARTH out that broken wire that comes from the relay the starter kicks without ignition being on.Can't tell where it's sposed to be connected to as there is limited space to poke around. where can I possibly get a wiring diagram ? Thanks Lorie Melboune Austrslia

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 35,238 Answers

Hi Lzamparutti, for a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Posted on Jun 18, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

goalie39
  • 469 Answers

SOURCE: Bike won't start/clicking coming from starter relay

Have you tried charging the battery or jumpstarting it with another battery?

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

Mitchy123
  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: weak ignition spark and start ing problem

try replacing the battery with a big boar 350

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: bike wont start replace start solenoid.when

You didn't mention what year model your bike is so I'll just generalize my response. Since you said that you replaced the solenoid, I'll assume that your bike is a 1988 model or earlier.

Your bike has a starter relay if it still has the stock wiring on it. Harley has used a starter relay since 1965 on the first model of ElectraGlide. Usually, it's underneath the battery tray or the seat or around that area.

On the back of your solenoid, you have three wire connections. Two very large connectors and one small connector. Make sure your bike is out of gear (in neutral) and use an old screwdriver to short between the large connector that comes from the battery and the small wire connection. The starter should engage and try to start the engine. If the ignition switch is on, it will start the engine. The starter will turn using this method with or without the switch being in the "on" position. If the starter works using this method, the problem is in either the relay or the neutral switch. If the starter does not turn the engine over, the problem is in the solenoid.

Now, let's check a few things. The small connector on the back of the solenoid should have a green or pink (depending on year) wire on it. Using a voltmeter or a test light, make sure you have voltage at the connector when you press the starter button with the switch in the "ON' position. If not, follow the wire to it's source, the relay.

The starter relay can be one of several different designs used throughout the years. It could be a small plastic cube, a small metal can, or a round phonelic relay. The relay should have four connections on it. A "hot" wire, a wire from the handlebar switch, the wire going to the starter, and a ground. The ground may be through the case itself. On the older Shovelhead bikes (1984 and earlier) there was a small short black wire that ran from the starter relay to the transmission for the ground. This wire must be intact or the relay would not work due to lack of a ground.

When you turn the switch on, one of the wires to the starter relay should become "hot". When you press the start button, you should hear a slight click and another of the smaller wires should now be "hot" as well, the one going to the starter.

On some year (1972 and later) models, the neutral switch was wired in with the starter relay. This was to prevent the bike from starting while "in gear" by disabling the relay. You'll have to figure this one out for yourself since I don't know what year model your bike is.

Now, you said you had power to the solenoid when you pushed the starter switch. So, let's assume that the starter failed the first test to told you aboue. If so, the problem is still most likely in the solenoid. Inside the solenoid, there is a large plunger with a copper disc on it. When you depress the starter switch, the coil in the solenoid becomes magnetized and pulls the plunger towards the back of the solenoid. This does two things, it engages the starter drive with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum and makes a high current electrical connection. The copper disc makes contact between the two large connections on the back of the solenoid from the inside. This connects the battery to the starter motor through the solenoid. If the black phonelic plate on the back of the solenoid is cracked or the contacts inside of it are badly burned, it will not work.

Now, if the solenoid is working correctly and you are getting voltage to your starter, it could be the brushes or something inside the starter. This is indicated if the starter trys to turn the engine over but just can't. It won't have enough power if the starter field windings are bad.

I hope I've given you something here that will help you solve your problem. This is basically the electrical part of the starter system. There are mechanical parts as well. If you hear the starter turning but the engine doesn't turn over, you have a mechanical problem. You can either repost or you can contact me directly at wd4ity@bellsouth.net I'll help if I can. Good Luck!

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: need bacic wiring diagram ignition starter relays

i have a 2000 road king classic, last week i laid it down and the bike blew a couple of fuses, replaced them and the bike started, but i do not have any speedo lights and odometer, no power to the guage, also no blinkers, they light up but does not flash, also the right hand grip was rolled down, could this be the problem ?.

needing help

steven

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I need a wiring diagram for a electronic ignition module.

If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.

There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.

All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.

Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=4
http://www.compufire.com/harley-main.html
http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/harley_davidson_category.aspx

Custom Chrome online catalog. http://www.customchrome.net//icatalog/full.aspx?Page=571

Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at wd4ity@bellsouth.net .

To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Jul 04, 2010

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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The most common cause of a non-starting car is the battery. It is either weak, (low voltage) dead, (zero voltage) or has bad connections. (corroded or loose) I will assume you have a fully charged battery with good connections. (both to battery and starter relay)
If you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the starter relay and apply +12v from the battery to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. (not to be confused with your key switch). If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken. Picture of starter switch prong on the relay is pictured. NOTE: sparks are to be expected, so don't be too scared. Pictured is a starter relay that is seperate of the starter, on models with starter and relay mounted together, its very similar.
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The most common cause of a non-starting car is the battery. It is either weak, (low voltage) dead, (zero voltage) or has bad connections. (corroded or loose) I will assume you have a fully charged battery with good connections. (both to battery and starter relay)
If you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the starter relay and apply +12v from the battery to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. (not to be confused with your key switch). If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken. Picture of starter switch prong on the relay is pictured. NOTE: sparks are to be expected, so don't be too scared. Pictured is a starter relay that is seperate of the starter, on models with starter and relay mounted together, its very similar.
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Yes they make a kit to bypass the system, check with your dealer, they can bypass it. If you want to make sure thats your problem, then you can go through this procedure:

The most common cause of a non-starting car is the battery. It is either weak, (low voltage) dead, (zero voltage) or has bad connections. (corroded or loose) I will assume you have a fully charged battery with good connections. (both to battery and starter relay)
If you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the starter relay and apply +12v from the battery to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. (not to be confused with your key switch). If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken. Picture of starter switch prong on the relay is pictured. NOTE: sparks are to be expected, so don't be too scared. Pictured is starter relay that is mounted seperate of starter, on models with starter/relay mounted together, its similar.
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1 Answer

Wont start sometimes


NO. Fuel pump relay controls the fuel delivery. You should NOT be hearing ANY clicking sounds when starting. If you have a manual tranny, you have a starting system that includes: a starter relay, a clutch safety switch, ignition switch, starter, battery.



On my \'91 Integra, I by-passed the normal starting system by running 2 separate 12-guage wires to the dash (thru the firewall, mounted along the firewall over across to the starter and to the under-hood fuse panel). I connected 1 wire to the under hood fuse panel (for power), and the other wire directly to the starter relay. Then, at the dash I connected both wires to a high-quality "momentary-on/off" toggle switch - this is my starter switch. I turn the ignition key to when the dash lights come on, then flick the switch, and BINGO the car always starts right up.



BUT, this is somewhat unsafe because it doesn\'t use the clutch safety switch - which is nothing more than a spring-loaded switch on the arm of the clutch pedal connected to the ground. IF you are using the standard starting system, you MUST engage the clutch for the starting system to make contact with the ground in order to engage the starter. So, check this switch first for a good connection to ground. It usually fails first before anything else. If it checks out, THEN check the starter relay, located waaaaaaay up underneath the dash, right in the middle. To get at the starter relay, you\'ll have to remove the glove box, and plastic & metal kick panels on the passenger side. The relay is located way up underneath the dash, next to the Blower housing. You\'ll need a long socket extension to reach it. Someone at Acura/Honda decided this was the best place for it. Boy would I like to whack him with a 2x4.



See this diagram for reference - the starter relay is #15.



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Nov 13, 2013 | 1994 Acura Integra

2 Answers

Hi, I had a start problem with my celica. tried to turn the car over and a constant clicking sound was made, however all lights were on and the radio was working.. thought possible starter problem,...


The problem is that your battery is extremely low. The repeated clicking sound is your starter relay trying to engage, then releasing again when the starter takes the remaining voltage available to try to turn. When the relay disengages, the starter can no longer take any voltage at all, so the relay again engages and the process starts over. This results in "CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK...." There simply is not enough power available to operate both the relay and the starter.

Your alarm system doesn't have enough voltage to function properly. It "thinks" that someone is trying to steal your car or is messing with your battery cables. It doesn't know the difference between low voltage from a dead battery and low voltage from somebody disconnecting wires. It is simply responding to the low voltage condition as it is designed to do. Fix the voltage problem and you will fix your security system. No need to reset anything.

Jump-start the car or replace the battery and get your charging system checked to make sure everything is functioning properly. It is possible that the battery is good but you have a bad alternator and the battery is low because it is not being charged.

Aug 17, 2011 | Toyota Celica Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

98 Durango will not turn over, replaced battery, battery cables, had started checked. Just get a clicking noise at starter like a dead battery. Will start some times.


Sounds like a bad connection. Clean all the connections first then if you have a clicking sound coming from the PDC (fuse box) on the drivers side under the hood then it sounds like you have a bad starter .
As the relay is clicking that means the ignition switch is good. Just insure that the relay is good. There is a spare in the PDC you can swap and check out so its the starter Starter/solenoid combo.take your volt meter and check battery volts while the starter is engaged, if you see very little change from the static voltage it's likely the starter bendix is being egaged into the ring gear but the high current side of the starter is not working, this is likely due to a dirty or worn commutator or worn brushes in the starter motor. If you do see a larger drop in voltage( say down to under 9.5volts) you more than likely have a current flow issue, possibly a weak cell in the battery, or a shorted starter motor winding.My best recomendation would be to remove the starter motor, and the battery, take them in with you to your local parts house and have them both tested, most parts stores will perform these tests for free, on the possibility that hey can sell you something.
STARTER MOTORREMOVAL:-1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.2. Raise and support the vehicle.3. Remove the nut and lock washer securing the starter motor to the mounting stud on the transmission torque converter housing Starter Motor Remove/Install4. While supporting the starter motor with one hand, use the other hand to remove the upper mounting screw from the starter motor.5. Slide the automatic transmission cooler tube bracket forward on the tubes far enough for the starter motor mounting flange to be removed from the lower mounting stud.6. Move the starter motor towards the front of the vehicle far enough for the nose of the starter pinion housing to clear the transmission torque converter housing. Always support the starter motor during this process, do not let the starter motor hang from the wire harness.7. Tilt the nose downwards and lower the starter motor far enough to access and remove the nut that secures the battery positive cable connector eyelet to the solenoid battery terminal stud. Always support the starter motor during this process, do not let the starter motor hang from the wire harness.8. Remove the battery positive cable connector eyelet from the solenoid battery terminal stud. Always support the starter motor during this process, do not let the starter motor hang from the wire harness.9. Disconnect the battery positive cable wire harness connector from the solenoid terminal connector receptacle. Always support the starter motor during this process, do not let the starter motor hang from the wire harness.10.Remove the starter motor from the engine compartment. --This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 22, 2010 | 1999 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

NEED TO INSTALL SARTER ON 1997 EXPLORER ALL WHEEL DRIVE


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise the front of the vehicle and install jackstands beneath the frame. Firmly apply the parking brake and place blocks in back of the rear wheels.



  1. Tag and disconnect the wiring at the starter.


WARNING When detaching the hardshell connector at the S-terminal, grasp the plastic shell to pull it off. Do not pull on the wire itself. Ensure to pull the connector straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S-terminal. If any part of the connector is damaged, replace the damaged component.


  1. Remove the starter mounting bolts and remove the starter.





To install:
  1. Position the starter motor against the engine and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 15-19 ft. lbs. (21-27 Nm).
  2. Install the starter solenoid connector by pushing it straight on. Ensure that the connector locks in position with a notable click.

Install the starter cable nut to the starter solenoid B-terminal. Tighten the nut to 80-123 inch lbs. (9-14 Nm).
  1. Connect any remaining wiring to the starter motor.
  2. Lower the front of the vehicle and remove the wheel blocks.
  3. Connect the negative battery cable.

RELAY REPLACEMENT

See Figures 7 through 13
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
  2. If necessary, remove the power distribution box cover.



0900c1528018eb98.jpg
  1. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery terminal.
  2. Remove the nut securing the positive battery cable to the relay.



0900c1528018eb9b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the cable securing nuts ...
  1. Remove the positive cable and any other wiring under that cable.





Fig. Fig. 11: ... then remove all of the cables from the relay
  1. Label and remove the push-on wires from the front of the relay.
  2. Remove the nut and disconnect the cable from the starter side of the relay.





Fig. Fig. 12: Remove the relay-to-fender apron attaching screws ...




Fig. Fig. 13: ... then remove the relay from the fender
  1. Remove the relay mounting bolts and remove the relay.

To install:
  1. Install the relay and mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts until snug.
  2. Attach all wiring to the relay.
  3. If equipped, install the power distribution box cover.
  4. Connect the positive (+) cable to the battery.
  5. Connect the negative (-) cable to the battery.

Nov 11, 2009 | 1997 Ford Explorer AWD

1 Answer

My 2000 Ford Expedition has erratic poor starting. Starter cranks, but no ignition. I have sprayed carb cleaner in the air intake hood (downstream of filter )and then it starts and runs. I suspect the...


If it is a single click, the problem lies in the starter solenoid or relay. If it is several clicks in succession, the battery may be low or there may be a loose cable. ---------- also try this :-- Please make sure the battery is fully charged before doing this test! Also make sure all the connections on the starter, battery and cable ends are tight and clean! this is important!! This won't be fun to test but it will tell you if the starter is good or not. Crawl under the car. (Make sure you use the proper jacks and jack stands!) find the end of the starter (not the end that is attached to the bell housing) and find the solenoid switch. it should have 3 bolts on it. Two large ones and a small one. The top large wire should be the positive battery cable, the bottom large wire should go into the starter and the small wire should be from the ignition switch. Take a wire and hold it to the top large wire on the solenoid. (be careful of the other end of that wire when you have it connected to the top large wire of the solenoid! don't ground this wire. it will turn out badly. take the other end of the wire and touch it to the small bolt on the solenoid end. If the starter is working, the solenoid should engage and the starter will turn. If this happens it is most likely the ignition switch. If the starter doesn't turn, the starter could be bad. ==== Starter Relay Test
Place transmission in Park.
Apply parking brake.
Check for battery voltage between starter relay battery terminal and ground.
Connect jumper wire on starter relay between battery and ignition terminals.
If engine does not crank, connect a second jumper wire to starter relay between ground terminal and good ground and repeat test.
If engine cranks in step 3, transmission linkage is misadjusted or neutral safety switch is defective.
If engine does not crank in step 3, starter relay is defective.
Follow this step by step and you will pinpoint the problem.
--------
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.




Oct 24, 2009 | Ford Expedition Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Sound coming from relay but starter wont engage. can shift into gear so lead to believe shaft with starter gear sheard into gearing/bound up? opinion?


Check for a cracked or broken coil wire, also check that all the connections are tight at the battery as well.

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