Re: transmission grinds going into 1st and sometimes pops...
Not sure whether helps you but I had an 1989 KX250 about 16 years ago that did the same thing. My selectors were worn but I had raced enduros fairly hard on the bike & the gear box had copped a fair amount of abuse. I could be wrong but I would say the motor will have to come out an the the crankcases split in half to get to the gearbox. Pretty easy on a 2 stroke, pain in the bum if it's a 4 stroke. Bit of advice when you pull apart a gearbox. Lay parts out in the order you take them out otherwise you will have fun putting it all back together.
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check and/or change the transmission oil. Clutch problems are noticeable in 1st and reverse but as all the rest are syncro controlled you really do not need to use the clutch to change them. just get the engine rpms to match road speed and they will slip in. I am thinking a oil viscosity problem because of the colder weather.
Then the clutch is not releasing properly & the continual
grinding will wear the gear teeth & you may also have worn
syncros, that will require you to pull the trans & go thru it, as well
as do a clutch replacement
Clutch fluid, commonly referred to as transmission oil or break fluid, is one of the vital liquids required for a vehicle engine to function. Since the fluid level reduces with time during vehicle usage, it becomes necessary to top it off in the clutch reservoir as need arises. But a leak in the clutch reservoir will also result in declining levels. Leaks are more likely to occur at either the slave cylinder or master cylinder, and if left unattended, low fluid levels can cause serious damage to your vehicle. You can ascertain the level by inserting a dipstick in the reservoir; however, certain signs of insufficient fluid will be apparent while driving. Below are six signs of low transmission oil. 6 Symptoms of Low Clutch Fluid DoItYourself com
How many miles are on it? You can try adjusting the clutch cable, there is a thumbwheel and adjuster bolt on the clutch lever perch where the cable goes into it. Simply loosen the thumbwheel, then turn the bolt outwards untill the excess cable slack is taken up. ONLY TAKE UP THE SLACK!! If this does not aleviate the problem, you likely have transmission problems- the slots and dogs in the transmission gears become worn with use/abuse- the most common ****** problem is clattering when putting into first gear, and difficult/missed 1-2 upshift. If your bike sometimes doesn't want to go into 2nd gear (requires double shifting, or seems to want to go into neutral before going into second) it's a sure sign of transmission wear. This can sometimes be repaired by replacing/ re-cutting and grinding the 1-2 gearsets, but in most cases it requires major disassembly of bottom end of the engine. This is a several hundred dollar repair, easy, and not one that many shops will be willing to take on with an older bike.
When it is hard to go into gear or grinding when going into gear is an indication of worn synchronizers. The only solution is to take it to a mechanic that specializes in transmissions and having the synchronizers replaced. Sometimes a weak clutch and clutch plate can make it hard to go into the lower gears, you may want to examine these first.
Now you know why the prior owner sold the bike. The problem is a bent shift fork. The engine comes out of the bike then the bottom end gets disassembled to a point where a new shift fork can be installed. The "grinding" is the dogs on the slider gear not fully engaging into first gear.
Your local Honda dealer will charge you $1000 to $1500 to do the repair. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Please rate my answer. Thanks!
popping out of gear means your shifting forks need adjustment, same as the grinding. the tranny is probably good, just the top part, the shifting mechanism needs to be repaired, so it would be cheaper to repair than rebuilding the whole transmision.still, im guessing about 300-500$ depending where you live.