Question about 2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

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Yamaha v star not charging after been sitting for over a year

I checked the stator and the ohm is between 1.2 and 1.1. when i rev the engine the volt meter shows a decrease in voltage. i also checked all the connections to make sure there was no corrosion i found one that was. I cleaned it and still nothing.

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  • rwisdom Feb 13, 2009

    Is there any way of checking the voltage regulator on that 2002 yamaha v star 1100?

  • Anonymous May 25, 2009

    How do you remove the stator once you determine this is the problem?

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Right side of machine, remove the cover below the battery box, you will have to remove or loosen front exhaust. the regulator is a finned black box held in with two 10mm hex bolts. remove regulator and disconnect the connector. the three white wires are the a/c input to the regulator. start the engine and at high idle, there should be 42 volts between each of the wires, make sure you test all of the wires and there is no missing voltage between a pair which would indicate that one phase is not working. if all is well, ohm black wire to ground on engine to make sure the ground path is good or the regulator will not work. reconnect the regulator, hook volt meter across the battery and notice reading, then start the engine and run up the rpm, you should see a voltage rise. if it does not, the regulator has open diodes. as a note, if you do not get an a/c reading at the regulator side, remove cover under tool box and check the alternator by doing the same wire pairs as mentioned before at the connector side going into the engine. if you have a/c there, check wiring from other connector side to regulator. if you have no a/c then you have a bad stator. yamaha uses a 3 phase permanent magnet alternator and the coil resistance should be around an ohm. this reading is relative unless you have a good meter as resistance of the leads and how well of a connection you made will affect the reading.

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

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  • Master
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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Your described condition indicates a most likely fault with the voltage regulator. This would be located below the battery. In most instances, it would be the regulator itself. However, there are also occasions where the pins/terminals of the connectors are corroded or have burned due to overheating.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Feb 13, 2009

    Appreciate the quick postback. A few ideas to consider/try:


    • normally, there would be 3 wires coming from the stator going to the regulator;

    • AC voltage measured on any pairing of these wires would be higher than 12 depending on the RPM above 1200;

    • DC voltage output would tend to vary from 12 to 13.8/14.2 depending on the RPM;

    • the best check would be to install temporarily an ammeter inline with the wire coming from the regulator going to the + terminal of the battery. With this, the presence/absence of the charging current could be checked.
    Cheers.



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Yamaha stratoliner is not charging my battery how do I fix it


Hi, Scott the following is a comprehensive charging system test that is guaranteed to the find issue with your system.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
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Hi, Anonymous the systems check below is geared towards Harley Davidson so exact numbers might differ slightly with book specs on your bike but the basic principal is the same, in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty alternator rotor.
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
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Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
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Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
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Hi Anonymous perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your multimeter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe multimeter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up the multimeter to the battery set it to DC volts and start the engine if multimeter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With the multimeter set to the ohms scale, with one lead grounded, touch an alternator pin ohmmeter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the multimeter set on AC volts scale, both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
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Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
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Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
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Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
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Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

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1 Answer

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Hi Anonymous perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your multimeter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe multimeter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up the multimeter to the battery set it to DC volts and start the engine if multimeter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With the multimeter set to the ohms scale, with one lead grounded, touch an alternator pin ohmmeter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the multimeter set on AC volts scale, both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Re Parasitic Battery Drain Road Star Forum Yamaha Road Star
http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?t=94508
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf
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http://www.starmotorcycles.com/assets/service/manuals/2000/LIT-11626-13-36_96.pdf

Apr 30, 2013 | 2003 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

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