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Both are adjustable. The forks have an adjustment screw. Press down on the front end while standing next to the bike. It should rebound fairly quick but it shouldn't start to go back down again on it's own (oscillates due to not enough damping). Adjust screws evenly on both forks (exact same amount) clockwise and repeat process mentioned until rebound is smooth and doesn't oscillate. The same applies to the rear but you have only one adjustment on the Ohlins reservoir for the monoshock assembly. Do the bounce test and adjust clockwise until the rebound feels firm and doesn't oscilllate. It should handle like a beast and wheelie much easier now.
My honest opinion is that you leave it to the experts. You need some heavy duty spring compression stands and spring retainers. Sure you can source them but how often will you be rebuilding rear shocks. If you need work done on yours I would suggest going out and buying a reputable after market shock, e.g Ohlins etc.
Looking the service manual on an 04 shows two seperate adjustment screws. One for adjusting the rebound dampening and the other for adjusting the compression dampening of your rear shock. The front has the same set up for each side of the fork. (2 pistons in front and 1 in back). If you look at the top of the rear shock on the right side of the bike, you should see an adjustment screw. That is the compression dampening screw. You should feel a definate click when you turn the screw to let you know how much you have changed it. Looking toward the bottom of the shock, you should see a screw labeled RBN. That is the rebound dampening adjustment. I would adjust the compression dampening first and then the rebound. Compression takes care of the initial part of the bump while the rebound slows the shock on the return to neutral. If the rebound is set to high, you will feel like the bike is trying to toss you off the bike like a bull. If the compression is too high, you will feel like somebody is kicking you in the arse.
Hope this helped. You should be able to find that 04 KX 250 service manual at:
http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/I know you have an 06, but I'm sure it's very similar. Good Luck
There is too much involved to include everything, but I can describe to you what everything does.
You have compression dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can compress. Then you have rebound dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can extend.
The compression adjuster on the rear shock is toward the top, sticking out sideways where the resivoir mounts to the side of the shock. The rebound adjuster can be seen below the swing arm on the side of the shock.
The compression adjusters on the front forks can be seen from the top. (its the one in the center, the other is an air bleed) The rebound adjuster is in the center of the lower fork leg, and can be seen from below the fork.
The settings are measured in the number of "clicks" from seated. More clicks from seated will be softer, and less clicks from seated will be stiffer. The best thing to do is to see where you are now and adjusting from there. I like to write them down as I go. Turn the adjuster clockwise untill it stops and take note of the number of clicks. DO NOT FORCE IT! You should also check your service manual and take note of the standard setting, and also take note of the maximum number of clicks you can go from seated. You dont want to screw the adjusters out farther than the max, shock damage can result.
You might try changing to the standard settings and try adjusting from there. If the bike doesnt ride at least moderately decent at the standard settings, your shock and/or forks may need a rebuild.
Generally speaking more compression dampening in the rear will result in less bottoming but a harsher ride. Less would result in the oppisite.
More rebound dampening in the rear will result in too slow of extension and packing up which will make the bike swap in the whoops, but it will not tend to buck you or throw you into a nose dive over a jump. Less would result in the oppisite.
In the front, more compression dampening will be about the same situation as described above with the shock.
More rebound dampening in the front forks can tend to take pressure off of the front wheel in corners causing washout, but too little can make the bike want to loop out over jumps.