Question about 2001 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883

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2001 Sportster 883 Hugger Right Footpeg post

I cannot remove the right footpeg post from the side engine cover even though I have removed the cotter pin. It looks like the post should pull right out of the side cover now but won't. I don't see any nut on the back side of this footpeg post. Can anyone help me with this.
Thanks.

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  • bkocher Feb 12, 2009

    I figured out the problem myself. I used a mirror tool to get behind the cover in the tight quarters and could then see that there was a retaining nut on the footpeg post which was countersunk. I was able to wedge a 90 degree flatblade screw driver tip in the tight opening enough to jam the nut from spinning while turning the footpeg post. This process avoided having to remove the rear cylinder exhaust pipe at the cylinder head which would have had to be done in order to remove the engine side cover that houses the front belt drive sprocket.

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 31,191 Answers

Hi Bkocher, this is a moderately easy fix but you are going to need a service manual for torque specifications and clarification please visit website below for $6.50 download.
1. Remove exhaust system.
2. Remove the screw and clip to free the brake line from the sproket cover.
3. Remove the two socket head screws and lock washers to free the rear brake master cylinder from the sproket cover.
4. Loosen the locknut and turn the brake push rod at the flats untill it is free of the rod end.
5. Remove the three sproket cover screws and washers. As a single assembly, remove the sprocket cover, footrest mount, rear brake pedal, and master cylinder stiffner.
6. Remove cotter pin and nut from footrest mount. Use blue Lock Tite on threads and torque footrest mounting nut to 40 ft lbs. replace cotter pin and assemble in reverse order. Good luck and have nice day.

Posted on Jun 26, 2015

6 Suggested Answers

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: remove the battery from a hugger 883 2003

Harley has made a few changes but basically the removal of the battery is pretty much the same as it has been for a long time.

Remove the seat first, one bolt at the rear, lift and pull to the rear. Next, there's a strap that holds the battery top cover on. Take the strap loose and remove the top and side covers. Now, on some later models, there is another strap that holds the battery in. Remove it as well. Disconnect the cables from the terminals. The negative should be disconnected first. Sometimes it's not the easiest to get to but with the proper tools it can be done. Remove the positive cable last when taking the battery out. When reinstalling the battery, always connect the postive first, negative last. Safety first. Good Luck.

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

  • 623 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 XL 1200 S Sportster Sport: 2003 Harley 883 Sportster Hugger sat for a year. D...

Remove the carb soak in carb cleaner, **** out small bleed holes with a wire from a wire brush etc. One of the passageways is still clogged, or the float is sticking.

Posted on May 19, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I need to find a bigger tank that will fit on my

http://www.vtwinmfg.com/Catalog1/VTwinCatalogIndex1.htm

3.3 To 4.0 gal. tanks.

Posted on Jul 02, 2010

mikebolt1985
  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: how can i tell if

The difference between the 883 and the hugger were very small. the hugger came stock with buck horn handlebars and a shorter suspension. the differences are still noticeable today between a standard 883 and and 883 low.
1992:

  • Hugger model made even lower
  • Standardized hand controls
  • Production Information:
  • XLH 883 $4,499
  • XLH 883 'Hugger' $5,075
  • XLH 883 'Sportster Deluxe' $5,559
  • XLH 1,200 $6,400
also check your vin number if you have and 883 it should read 1hd4cam........ or for a hugger 1hd4cem....

Posted on Jan 14, 2011

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Wiring diagram for 1988

I can help you with your schematic request. However, this forum will only allow me to send files up to 150kb, too small for a schematic without losing the clarity off it. If you will contact me directly at wd4ity@bellsouth.net , I will e-mail the schematic to you as a scanned jpeg file at no charge. Please remind me of what you need in your e-mail. I handle many request in this manner and I cannot remember who wants what.

Ride Safe
Steve

Posted on Jan 17, 2011

Mr BrokRench
  • 1623 Answers

SOURCE: What is rear axle nut

80-95 ft lbs.

Posted on Jul 31, 2011

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Hi Cher1029, this is a moderately easy fix but you are going to need a service manual for torque specifications and clarification please visit website below for $6.50 download.
1. Remove exhaust system.
2. Remove the screw and clip to free the brake line from the sproket cover.
3. Remove the two socket head screws and lock washers to free the rear brake master cylinder from the sproket cover.
4. Loosen the locknut and turn the brake push rod at the flats untill it is free of the rod end.
5. Remove the three sproket cover screws and washers. As a single assembly, remove the sprocket cover, footrest mount, rear brake pedal, and master cylinder stiffner.
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Hi Dtravis13, this is a moderately easy fix but you are going to need a service manual for torque specifications and clarification please visit website below for $6.50 download.
1. Remove exhaust system.
2. Remove the screw and clip to free the brake line from the sproket cover.
3. Remove the two socket head screws and lock washers to free the rear brake master cylinder from the sproket cover.
4. Loosen the locknut and turn the brake push rod at the flats untill it is free of the rod end.
5. Remove the three sproket cover screws and washers. As a single assembly, remove the sprocket cover, footrest mount, rear brake pedal, and master cylinder stiffner.
6. Remove cotter pin and nut from footrest mount. Use blue Lock Tite on threads and torque footrest mounting nut to 40 ft lbs. replace cotter pin and assemble in reverse order. Good luck and have nice day.

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