- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi, if the big end bearing fitted within the con rod on the crankshaft fails it is accompanied by a knocking noise when the engine is running, when the engine is striped and the crankshaft is out, movment of the con rod in an up and down direction while grasping the conrod between finger and thumb indicates big end failure, youmay also notice while rotating the con rod that it locks up, more so in 1 direction. Visual damage bearing cage failure visible from within the oil cut out on the big end of the conrod, Crankshaft main bearing failure, the main bearings are fitted within the engine cases 1 left and 1 right, failure of this bearing would be movment of the crankshaft ends within the cases, accompanied by a rough vibrating sound.when running, Hope this helps paul
I think honda only sells the complete crank as you have been told.
An expert engine machinist may be able to dissasemble the crank rebuild the journals, grind, source oversize\undersize bearings, refit bearings, reassemble and balance, but the time and cost would be more than a crank.
You may chase a second hand one from a bike breaker, personally I would try to find another motor, as if the big end has gone, there will be wear in other areas of the motor, like the cam bearings which also are not replaceable. It must have had an oil problem..
You need a stand designed to hold the rear end of your bike up or an engine hoist and you need a press or to take your swingarm to a shop to get the bearings and bushings pressed out and the new ones pressed in. It is a fairly big job if you are not well-tooled.
The connecting rod bearing is inaccessible without disassembling the crankshaft halves. This is strictly a job for the shop having a two ton hydraulic press. I think you are actually referring to the crankshaft end bearings. Either way, the job doesn't get much bigger >
The engine comes out of the frame, the top end comes off.
The flywheel and stator come off as does the entire clutch and kick-starter. The shift shaft gets removed as well.
The center case gets split then all the gears and shift drum and shift forks come out.
Remove the crank and then the bearings and seals.
Install new bearings and seals and also a new sprocket shaft left bearing and seal. A new shift shaft seal would be good also.
Now take the remaining 100 parts and just put them back the way they were. Experience is desirable at this point.
Don't even think of doing the repair without a factory service manual. You will need a case splitter, impact driver, flywheel puller, gear puller and a torque wrench to do the job properly. Personally I encourage you to do it > but not without a clean work area and bench, the proper tools and a service manual. Check with the dealer as to what they would charge to replace the crank end bearings. Probably $900 to $1100. You can buy the tools and do the job yourself for about $250. Now I want to emphasize that you ARE mechanically inclined, RIGHT?
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part and/or the notation "Not Available" is in the description, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Click on the following tabs > CLUTCH, CRANKCASE, CRANKSHAFT /PISTON, CYLINDER HEAD / CYLINDER, TRANSMISSION, and also GEARCHANGE MECHANISM and GEAR CHANGE DRUM/SHIFT FORKS. This will give you an idea of what you are getting into. The best case is you fixed it cheap and now have tools and experience as well. The worst case is you now have tools, a box of parts to take to the dealer and experience.
Best wishes, Tombones49 Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?
Either the big end- or the top end bearings are almost dead. I've seen this on many bikes including my own GSXR. It's not really something you should attemt to fix yourself, it's a massive job. Rather take it to a shop, and let them check it out for you... Hope that helps
Springer models have a tendancy to ruin neck bearings. Get the front wheel off the ground and point staight ahead. Now move the handlebars slightly from side to side. If you feel a slight "catch" or if the front wheel stays straight without falling to the side then the neck bearings are shot. They are tapered roller bearings, like a wheel bearing. The outer race will have a depression you can feel with your thumbnail. Pack the new bearings with the grease made for that purpose. A couple of hints: When h-d first made this grease available, I laughed. Use it, it works. It was originally designed for helicopter rotors. To remove the outer races, you may have to weld a bead on the bearing surface. The pre-load adjustment is critical. Too loose and you will get a wobble. Too tight and you get a weave, which is worse. It is normal for a springer front end to fall off to the left even when the wheel is pointed somewhat to the right. This is a pretty big job, so if a shop is going to do it you may want to show this to them and ask if it makes sense to them, but please don't second guess them.