Question about 1995 kawasaki GPZ 1100

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1984 Kawasaki GPz1100 (ZX1100-A2) Repair

Need to KNOW "How" to R&R the Anti-Dive Valves(Rebuild), AND Change Out the Fork Springs??
What is the Air Valve on the Lower Right/Bottom Fork Clamp FOR??

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  • Rick Wymer
    Rick Wymer Apr 18, 2013

    Well I should have Pulled the Post as Old as it is...I found a Front End Specialist Out here, that is a working M/C Mechanic of 30 Years with a Full Service Shop. He Took mt Front-end off, Did a Complete Rebuild and Tweeked it, and Re-Installed it on the Bike for $75 and I got the Parts from Progressive Suspension for under $100 for a Complete KIT, versus the Dealer that wanted over $360 (with me Bringing In The Front-End), But Thx for the FYI...

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Hello, my name is Austin and I have a 1983 Kawasaki GPz 1100 A1
and I would like to know if you have worked on the fuel injection system that seem to plegue the GPz's?

Posted on Aug 24, 2014

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You Need To Be Factory Trained To Service This KYB Fork. It Requires Special Tools And Seal Drivers To Service. This Fork Is Very Expensive. Do Not Add Compressed Air To Those Valves. A Danger Of Explosion Or Damage To Seal Exist. This Is Not A Project For A Novice Mechanic. See Your Dealer On This One Believe Me.

Posted on Apr 12, 2013

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The anti-dive valves are easy to remove...
Place the bike on her center stand, and raise the front wheel with a jack under the front of the engine/exhaust.
first loose the 3-way connector on the lower fork part ( brakefluid ).
Remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the anti-dive system to the lower part. You'll see the plunger. When braking, that plunger should move about 2mm out. It must be possuble to push it back in place with fingerpressure. Then that part of valve is OK. All the parts of the plunger are separately available by a Kawasaki dealer.
The lower part of the ADVS is also easy. Just remove the 2 screws holding them to the fork tubes. The fork oil will drip out...
When reassemble, dont forget to bleed the brake hoses at the top of the plungers...
To remove the springs...
Loose both screws on the upper fork clamps.
Remove the rubber stops on the air valves
Bleed the air out of the fork pushing the air valves ( some have only 1 air valve, and an equilibration tube just below the upper fork clamp )
Remove both fork spring stops. Caution, hold them firmly down while unscreing, to avoid the stops jump away at the end of the thread!
On reassembly, the stops must be screwed at 2.3 DaN/m (17 lbf/ft ).
The quantity of oil is exactly 348cm³ in each fork. Must be filled without the springs. Push then the fork several times up and down to pump the new oil in all the valves. Then with the fork down, measure the hight between oil level and top of fork. That must be 379mm.

Hope this all helps...
Don't know about an air valve at the bottom of fork tubes...

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

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G'day Cheroine and the usual suspects are:
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