Question about 2008 Husqvarna TE 450

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Fuel filter nipple broke

Pulled off the fuel pump on my TE 450 08 after it would not start. found that where the hose hooks onto the fuel pump it had broken off the nipple. husky put it thru as a warranty claim (better cause its $1300 for a new one). my question is has anyone had this problem, husky said it was due to vibration. after 10 months use and a 1000 km's i hope it will not be a reaccuring problem.

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  • Anonymous Apr 06, 2009

    i have the same problem bike wont start no more.

    bike from 07/2008 and 1400km

    dealers replay same as yours


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  • 254 Answers

Get some proof in writing from the retailer noting the issue for future ref.

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

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1 Answer

Okay the hose that runs from the Petcock valve to the fuel pump has little slits where it's like old & got bent and broke so where can I go about finding and getting another one of those are?


the hose you want will be petrol hose ( any spares shop)and be a tight push on fit to the petcock and the pump
use special hose clips ( jubilee clips or clips supplied in a filter replacement kit or zip tie done up tight ) to secure
from your description you need a smaller diameter hose

Dec 10, 2015 | GAS Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do I change the fuel valve on 2003 road king







Turn the handle of the fuel valve to OFF, THEN using a side cutters, cut clamp and remove hose from fuel outlet fitting at the front of the fuel valve and drain the free end of hose into a suitable container, THEN remove the elbow of the intake manifold vacuum tube from its fitting on the inboard side of the fuel valve, attach a length of fuel hose long enough to reach a suitable gasoline container to the fuel outlet fitting, turn the handle of the fuel valve to RES(ERVE), THEN using the correct hose adapter, connect the Mity-Vac® Hand Pump (HD-23738A) or similar to the vacuum fitting (To avoid damage to the diaphragm of the fuel valve, do not apply a vacuum greater than 25 inches of Mercury(Hg) to the vacuum fitting.), gently apply a vacuum of 1-10 inches of Mercury (Hg) to the vacuum fitting to get a good flow of gasoline through the valve, when the fuel tank is completely empty remove the vacuum pump from the vacuum fitting, THEN holding the fuel tank adapter, turn the hex jam nut in a clockwise direction to remove the fuel valve assembly, remove the fuel filter strainer from the valve head, remove the hex jam nut from the fuel valve and remove and discard the gasket from the valve head.


FUEL VALVE Installation



Attach the fuel supply valve assembly to the tank by threading the hex fitting on the right hand threads of the fuel tank two turns (the collar on the hex fitting faces the fuel tank), holding the hex fitting and thread body of the fuel supply valve assembly into the left hand threads of the hex fitting two turns, hold the fuel supply valve assembly so that the handle points to the left, straight away from the motorcycle, tighten the hex fitting (clockwise) to 15-20 ft-lbs (20.3-27.1 Nm), connect the fuel hose to the outlet nipple on the fuel supply valve assembly using a new clamp and HOSE CLAMP PLIERS, connect the vacuum hose to the vacuum nipple and the fill tank with gasoline, check for leaks at the fitting, turn the fuel supply valve handle ON and start the engine. No special procedures are required to start the fuel flow, carefully inspect for leaks and then turn the fuel supply valve OFF and shut off the engine after the inspection is complete.

Oct 02, 2012 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

My 2009 1200L sportster leaks oil out the air filter every 2000-3000 miles.It blows onto my exhaust and higher up. I've had my rocker boxes replaced(warranty issue) THREE TIMES- could this be rela


The problem is the the air breathers inside the rocker covers. Sad to say,but nearly all of them do this. One solution is to take off the air filter cover. There should be two bolts..(one on each side of the inside of the housing) that SHOULD have hoses hooked to them. If they do not have the hoses hooked to them,then that is your problem. See,these bolts are hollow,and have a nipple on the ends of them. These allow the top end to "breathe",a crankcase pressure relief if you will.Anyway,..these nipples are SUPPOSED to have a small hose on each of them,that re-direct the oil/crankcase pressure, into the carb/throttle body,which eliminates the oil running into your air filter housing.Check to make sure they are in fact there,and let me know what you find.

Sep 24, 2012 | 2009 Harley Davidson XL 1200C Sportster...

1 Answer

How to hook up vacuum lines on a 1988 suzuki katana 600


You must hook them on each niple has each carburator right before it's cylinder head's collar that is plugged on. One of them has the vacuum hose that goes to your fuel switch, pull it out and put the switch to PRI position or feed the carburators externaly. The other nipples are plugged with blind plugs which you remove to plug the vacuum hoses and then replace them back on.

Feb 03, 2012 | 1988 Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana)

1 Answer

My 95 heritage nostalgia is running great but, is only drawing fuel from the left side tank. The left tank goes empty as the right side stays completely full??


Your bike has two "tank halves" on it instead of one tank. There is a hose that runs from the right side to the left side under the lower front of the tanks. Either this hose is stopped up or the nipple that it plugs onto is blocked with something. Run the left tank dry and the pull the hose loose from it at the lower front. See if the fuel flows out of the hose from the right tank. If not, keep working back until you find the problem. The right side fuel cap has the tank vent in it but that must be working because it supplies the vent for the left tank through a hose just under the speeodmeter.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 06, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLSTN- FLSTNI Softail...

1 Answer

My 2007 flhtc harley davidson is starveing for gas. i changed both fuel hoses & it didnt do any good! its dying & wont stay running. what should i check next


If the bike is equipped with a carburetor, check the fuel petcock. In 1996, Harley went to a vacuum operated fuel petcock. It has a diaphragm in the backside of it that can develop a hole in it. When this happens, no fuel gets to the carb or not enough. To test, pull the hose off the carb and put the end of it in a catch can. Spin the engine with the starter and watch for fuel coming out of the hose. Or, if you have a hand operated vacuum pump, plug the hose from it onto the nipple on the backside of the petcock. Apply vacuum and watch for fuel flow. You can drain the tank and remove the petcock from the tank. Take the square plate off the backside of the petcock. Notice how the parts come out of the petcock. Hold the diaphragm up to a light and gently stretch it looking for a hole. You can buy a replacement diaphragm at your local H-D dealership. Personally, I'd change the petcock to a high quality manually operated one. You'll have to turn your fuel on and off manually, old school style. But, you won't have anymore problems with it.

Good Luck
Steve

Jun 17, 2011 | 2007 Harley Davidson FLHTCU Ultra Classic...

1 Answer

82 gs 550 two nipples on petcock and one nipple on pump .......hose on front side of carb i believe is vaccuum and hose on middle back side of carb rail is inlet ..i think but the nipple on the little...


is there one bigger then the other on the nipples. If so the one bigger is for the carb fuel and the little one should run down the left carb, betewwn the front of the carb and the carb mount.

Sep 20, 2010 | 1980 Suzuki Gs 550 L

1 Answer

I have 2 questions first of all where is the fuel filter on a 1986 honda golwing aspencade sei and also where is the fuel preasure regulator aT


Hello,

I see that your question hasn't been answered in six months. I was doing a search on users that are having problems with Gold Wings and came across your questions. The following information should be helpful.

The Fuel Pressure Regulator is located is attached to the rear end of the right-hand fuel delivery pipe.

You can locate the fuel filter by doing the following:
  1. Remove the seat by lifting it straight up and away from the frame. Locate the fuel lines where they go into the gas tank. Follow the fuel lines until they go into the filter. The filter will be located between the fuel pump and the gas tank.
  2. Unbolt the filter from the mounting bracket with a socket and a ratchet. Pull the filter away from where it is mounted to the bracket to allow better access to the fuel lines.
  3. Loosen the hose clamps that hold the fuel filter on with a screwdriver. Pull the fuel lines off of the fuel filter. If the fuel lines are held on with a quick connect fitting, lift the tab on the fitting with a flat head screwdriver and pull the fuel lines off of the filter.
  4. Install the new filter in the same orientation as the old one. Ensure that the arrow on the filter is pointing towards the fuel pump.
  5. Slide the fuel lines onto the new fuel filter. Tighten the hose clamps with a Phillips screwdriver or slide them on until they clip into place if they are the quick connect style.
Bolt the fuel filter back to the bracket that holds it in place, ensuring that it is securely fastened. Turn the ignition on and crank the engine to make sure that there are no fuel leaks. Reinstall the seat.

If you find the information in this post to be useful, please vote.

Best Regards,

Oz

Jul 11, 2010 | 1985 Honda GL 1200 Interstate Gold Wing

3 Answers

How to get front brake pressure after changing master cylinder, bleeding didnt help or maybe im not doing it right


vacuum bleeding is best for these brakes. To do it without a vacuum pump you must pull the handle very slowly and pause about three seconds between handle pulls to allow fluid to refill the piston chamber.

Mar 12, 2010 | 2001 Suzuki GSX-R 1000

2 Answers

Bleeding front brakes


Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.

All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.

First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2006 kawasaki ER-6f

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