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Series 90 washer,replaced coupling , now motor is getting hot !
Thanks in advance for your help replacing motor coupling , but evidently i have something else wrong as well. replaced coupling , reassembled, ran through cycles , hard sounding when engaging gears,and could smell motor getting hot. dissembled, seems to be slack in shaft, as well as easy then hard to turn areas. could you give me any trouble shooting advice ? again thanks in advance gaylon wilson
Thanks for your reply. The motor coupling did fail. Broken plastic ear. Motor spins as you described, no slack, Not to hard. i replaced a broken motor coupling , reassembled , quick run through cycles. By the end of the quick cycle run through, I could smell the motor getting hot, although cycles seem to function properly . I quickly shut down, dissembled to check motor , it was a little stiff at first but did free up after a spin or two. I don't think the motor is burn up yet, but maybe compromised. A car seat was washed when this problem occured, it could be something binding the tub ? The trans shaft spins freely cc wise , Spins clockwise with a little slack til it chatches up, Then spends the tub, There are places in the cycle that seem harder than others. Sounds like something under the agiatator ? How do you disasemble , to pull agiatator out to ckeck. Dogear and drive cam seem to be working properly , ingaging clock wise, free spin ccwise . While running thru the cycles seems like more gear clsah than normal. I contributed that to metal inserts on new motor couplings plastic cogs. Your thoughts ?
Thanks so much for your time. G. Wilson
Thanks for your reply. The motor coupling did fail. Broken plastic ear. Motor spins as you described, no slack, Not to hard. i replaced a broken motor coupling , reassembled , quick run through cycles. By the end of the quick cycle run through, I could smell the motor getting hot, although cycles seem to function properly . I quickly shut down, dissembled to check motor , it was a little stiff at first but did free up after a spin or two. I don't think the motor is burn up yet, but maybe compromised. A car seat was washed when this problem occured, it could be something binding the tub ? The trans shaft spins freely cc wise , Spins clockwise with a little slack til it chatches up, Then spends the tub, There are places in the cycle that seem harder than others. Sounds like something under the agiatator ? How do you disasemble , to pull agiatator out to ckeck. Dogear and drive cam seem to be working properly , ingaging clock wise, free spin ccwise . While running thru the cycles seems like more gear clsah than normal. I contributed that to metal inserts on new motor couplings plastic cogs. Your thoughts ?
It sounds like your drive motor may be shot. This could have contributed to the wear on the motor coupling if was binding. The motor should have a steady smooth free spin. Not too slack, not too hard. If the motor is not spinning as it should, the windings may be worn. The motor is sold as an entire assembly. If you post back with your complete model number, I can assist you with a search to find the least expensive replacement. I don't believe the motor coupling replacement had anything to do with the drive motor failure. They do wear out...It sounds like your drive motor may be shot. This could have contributed to the wear on the motor coupling if was binding. The motor should have a steady smooth free spin. Not too slack, not too hard. If the motor is not spinning as it should, the windings may be worn. The motor is sold as an entire assembly. If you post back with your complete model number, I can assist you with a search to find the least expensive replacement. I don't believe the motor coupling replacement had anything to do with the drive motor failure. They do wear out...
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does it agitate???. if it does not then you need the motor coupling. you need to remove the cabinet, yes, I said the cabinet, remove the pump,motor and you got to the coupling. replace all part in kit. reassemble and test. go to the website of sears parts WITH THE COMPLETE MODEL. and get the part. model starts like 110.xxxxxxxxxxx
What made you replace the motor? Sounds also like a transmission problem. You motor reversing in spin but gears for agitate stripped in gearbox. Double check motor/coupling alignment. Pull the motor back off and turn the gearbox drive shaft both directions. One direction makes the basket turn, the other direction makes the agitator turn. If the agitator does not move, the gear case is bad.
Hello I'm afraid you didnt find a belt but maybe a piece of the coupling. Here are detailed instructions on replacing a coupling:
from the limited information this sounds like it's going to be a broken coupling. Kenmores are usually direct drive machines made by whirlpool, this means they don't have a belt. Instead the transmission is connected directly to the motor via a coupling. This is what a coupling looks like: To confirm this pull the machine forward enough that you can lean it back and it will stand back under it's own weight. Wedge something underneath the chasis so it does not fall on you while your accessing the bottom. Go under the Machine and locate the motor, You will see the pump connected to the motor connected to the transmission.
1. Unplug the wire harness from the motor then.
2. Use a screw driver remove the 2 clips holding the pump in place and remove or push the pump out of the way.
3. You will need to remove the 2 screws from the brackets holding the Motor in place with a nut driver.
4. With a screwdriver remove the 2 clips holding the motor in place (be carefull to support the motor as the clips comes off)
5. remove the motor and drop it onto the floor. Now you will see the coupling..one side on the motor the other side on the transmission the rubber connector in between. Replace the coupling if broken or worn and reassemble the washer in reverse order. Now you should be all set. Be aware you may smell rubber on the first couple loads this is normal after replacing a coupling. Good Luck!! if you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Mike
p.s Please remember to rate my solution since this helps me to help other people :) Thanks!
if it agitates but will not spin it sounds like you either have a bad lid switch or clutch. check your lid switch first when opening and closeing the lid do you hear a click sound?
Replace the motor coupling between the motor and transmission its very easy if you tilt the machine back and remove the two screws holding the motor brackets.
You definitely have a broken motor coupling. This is the piece that connects the motor to the trasmission. The pump is connected directly to the motor on the other side opposite of the coupler. When they break, the water will drain but the washer will not spin.
If you have anymore questions please ask. This is an inexpensive repair and something you can do yourself. Just refer to the coupler in the manual and you won't have any issues.
looks like you have a defective motor or a leaked load capacitor .....you need to get the motor rewired....or get a new motor for your washer..... have the capacitor checked....
but ya the issue is 1 of the 2....faulty cap/motor
To confirm this pull the machine forward enough that you can lean it back and it will stand back under it's own weight. Wedge something underneath the chasis so it does not fall on you while your accessing the bottom. Go under the Machine and locate the motor, You will see the pump connected to the motor connected to the transmission.
1. Unplug the wire harness from the motor then.
2. Use a screw driver remove the 2 clips holding the pump in place and remove or push the pump out of the way.
3. You will need to remove the 2 screws from the brackets holding the Motor in place with a nut driver.
4. With a screwdriver remove the 2 clips holding the motor in place (be carefull to support the motor as the clips comes off)
5. remove the motor and drop it onto the floor. Now you will see the coupling..one side on the motor the other side on the transmission the rubber connector in between. Replace the coupling if broken or worn and reassemble the washer in reverse order. Now you should be all set. Be aware you may smell rubber on the first couple loads this is normal after replacing a coupling. Good Luck!! if you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Mike
p.s Please remember to rate my solution since this helps me to help other people :) Thanks!
Thanks for your reply. The motor coupling did fail.
Broken plastic ear. Motor spins as you described, no slack, Not to hard. i replaced a broken motor coupling , reassembled , quick run through cycles. By the end of the quick cycle run through, I could smell the motor getting hot, although cycles seem to function properly . I quickly shut down, dissembled to check motor , it was a little stiff at first but did free up after a spin or two. I don't think the motor is burn up yet, but maybe compromised.
A car seat was washed when this problem occured, it could be something binding the tub ? The trans shaft spins freely cc wise , Spins clockwise with a little slack til it chatches up, Then spends the tub, There are places in the cycle that seem harder than others. Sounds like something under the agiatator ? How do you disasemble , to pull agiatator out to ckeck. Dogear and drive cam seem to be working properly , ingaging clock wise, free spin ccwise .
While running thru the cycles seems like more gear clsah than normal. I contributed that to metal inserts on new motor couplings plastic cogs.
Your thoughts ?
Thanks so much for your time.
G. Wilson
It sounds like your drive motor may be shot. This could have contributed to the wear on the motor coupling if was binding. The motor should have a steady smooth free spin. Not too slack, not too hard. If the motor is not spinning as it should, the windings may be worn. The motor is sold as an entire assembly. If you post back with your complete model number, I can assist you with a search to find the least expensive replacement. I don't believe the motor coupling replacement had anything to do with the drive motor failure. They do wear out...
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