My wife started her 2008 Hyundai Getz 1.4 L this morning and a very lound knocking noise was coming from the engine. Did not sound like tappets to me. Told her switch motor off. Then started again a short time later and the same extremely lound knocking noise started. Turn engine off and two hrs later after checking the engine oil was fine tried to start the engine however this time would not start. This sounds serious to me with only 45000kms on the clock and fully serviced reguarly. I wounder what the problem could be

Check temperature sensor,fans,thermostat, water pump.

remove valve cover and inspect the head --rockers valves push rods guides etc

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DIY Part Hyundai Elantra transmission engine swap 1 of 3 Removing the...


It is not an exact match but the procedure is typical.

Tappets usually make a 'clicking/ticking' noise which comes from the top of the engine.

A tensioner or pulley/belt tends to make a constant whirring/squealing noise.

I need better info to help with this.

check the sway bar end links unbolt them if nec and drive with out them hooked up just to see if the noise stops

drain the oil flush the engine then put in good grade of oil the tappet is sticking as hyundais have trouble getting oil round the engine this wont stop the problem but will make the noise go away until you can get the tappet replaced

change the oil more regular ,sounds like a hydraulic tappet sticking

If it is a 'squealing' noise it's probably the alternator/power steering drive belt. Before you turn on the engine in the morning, lightlt smear or spray some oil on the inside of the drive belt to lubricate it. If the squealing stops/disappears, then that's the fault ..

That squealing noise can be caused by an incorrectly tensioned belt, or a worn belt. Replacement is the only option.

The other frightening sounds can best be described as 'rattles' or 'tapping'. When a car stands overnight all the oil drains back into the sump (oil/pan).

There are two things (usually) that can be cause the rattle/tap:
1. Because the oil hasn't been pumped around the system, at start up worn big end bearings can rattle and tap on the crankshaft until the oil 'fills the gaps'. The tapping/rattling goes away as the engine warms and oil is pumped around the lubricating system.

A 'bottom end tapping' is a symptom of worn big ends (they are bearings at the bottom of the piston and fit around the crankshaft).

2. A rattle/tapping from the top of the engine can either be a worn camshaft or 'lazy tappets'. Again, when the engine warms and oil gets to the camshaft and tappets (also called 'hydraulic lifters) the noise will disappear.

If your car has this rattling/tapping noise - identify whether it is coming from just under the rocker box (ie the camshaft/tappets..) or the bottom end of the engine (big end bearings).

If the noise is coming from the top of the engine, try an oil change with a can of thick 'additive' included. A lazy tappet (lifter) isn't too much to worry about. A worn camshaft will affect the performance of the engine, though continue to do its job. An oil change with an additive included may help in quitening things down.

A bottom end tap/rattle (or 'knock') - the sooner that is sorted out the better.

It can be broken baring wheel on waterpump,you can change pupm, belts tensioners. Or it can be hidro valve- which engine oil do you use. Use not 5w30-its too thin ,better use 5w40 or 10w40. Zoran Vrgec, Osijek, Croatia