Question about 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

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93 yz250 Not on the piston. It's the bearing that cnotrols something for the exhaust on the side of the cylinder head.

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  • Master
  • 2,559 Answers

There is no exhaust bearing or any bearing that controls exhaust.
.93 yz250 - bc46064.gif

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

  • Randy Hough
    Randy Hough Feb 01, 2009

    Are you refering to the exhaust cam timing?

  • Randy Hough
    Randy Hough Feb 01, 2009

    look at your other post and if that is the info you needed,please rate all as fixya's

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What arm the specs for 95 camaro lt1 350


Block and Basics
Displacement: 350 cubic inches, 5733 cubic centimeters, 5.7 liters
Block Material: Cast Iron
Main Bearings: 2-Bolt Centers and Ends (The Corvette LT1/LT4 had 4-bolt mains)
Stroke: 3.48"
Bore: 4.00"
Compression Ratio: 10.4:1
Combustion Chambers: 54 cubic centimeters
Factory Redline Rating: 5700 Rotations Per Minute

Bottom End
Piston Material: (10159437) Eutectic Aluminum/Silicon Alloy
Connecting Rod Material: (10108688) Powdered Metal
Crankshaft Material: (12556307) Cast Iron

Top End and Valvetrain
Cylinder Heads: (10168448) Cast Aluminum, 2 valves per cylinder/16 valves total, ~212 CFM flow (Impala SS and Caprice heads were made of cast iron*)
Valve Diameter: (intake- 10241743, exhaust- 12550909) 1.94 intake, 1.50 exhaust
Valve Overlap: 41*
Valvesprings: (10206040) 85 lbs, seated
Camshaft Specs (12551705): 205/207 duration @ 50*, .447/.459" lift, 117 Lobe Seperation Angle
Rocker Arms: (10089648) 1.5:1 Stamped Steel
Timing Chain: (10128485) Powdered metal link

Intake and Fuel Delivery
Fuel Delivery: Electronic Fuel Injection, sequential port
Injector Size: (17124248) 3.0gps, 22lbs/hr speed density (1992-1993), 24lbs/hr mass airflow (1994-1997)
Throttle Body: 48 millimeter twin butterfly
Intake Manifold: (12552137) Aluminum

Factory Power Ratings
92-96 LT1 Corvette: 300bhp, 330lb-ft
1996 LT4 Corvette: 330bhp, 340lb-ft
1992 LT5 Corvette: 375bhp, 370lb-ft
93-95 LT5 Corvette: 405bhp, 385lb-ft
93-95 LT1 F-Body: 275bhp, 325lb-ft
96-97 LT1 F-Body: 285bhp, 325lb-ft
96-97 WS6/SS: 305bhp, 335lb-ft
93-97 Firehawks: 315bhp, 340lb-ft

Factory LTX Camshaft Specifications**:
1992 Y-body: 205/207 0.451/0.450 lift 117 LSA
1993-1995 Y-body, F-body: 202/207 0.450/0.460 lift 116 LSA
1994-1996 B-bodies (including L99 4.3L): 191/196 0.418/0.430 lift 111 LSA
1996 Y-body, 1996-1997 F-body: 200/207 0.447/0.459 lift 117 LSA
1996 Y-body, F-body LT4: 203/210 0.476/0.479 lift 115 LSA


hope this helps

Mar 04, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bike was running great on saturday. Went to the races bike started right up when the gate dropped bike won't rev out all the way. Didn't have this problem yesterday. When we got home i cleaned the car


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely drained or faulty battery.
2. Faulty regulator/rectifier or high output coil.
3. Faulty power valve, solenoid or installation.
4. Clogged air filter or exhaust.
5. Cracked or incorrect float level.
6. Float needle is not seating.
7. Faulty reed valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
YZ250 electrical issue won rev up
YZ250 bad reed Yamaha 2 Stroke
YAMAHA YZ250 LC Owner Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

May 19, 2014 | 2007 Yamaha yZ 250

1 Answer

What is the clearance for rod bearings on the crank of a 98 ford f 150 4.6


General Specifications Item Specification
Displacement L (CID) 4.6 (281)
Number of Cylinders 8
Bore and Stroke mm 90.2 x 90.0
Firing Order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Oil Pressure (HOT @ 1500 rpm) kPa 138-310
Drive Belt Tension a
Cylinder Head and Valve Train
Combustion Chamber Volume cm 52?±.5
Valve Seats Width?€"Intake mm 1.9-2.1
Valve Seats Width?€"Exhaust mm 1.9-2.1
Valve Seats Angle 44.51-45.01 degrees
Valve Seats Runout (T.I.R.) Max mm 0.025
Valve Arrangement (Front-to-Rear) (Left Hand) E-I-E-I-E-I-E-I
(Right Hand)
I-E-I-E-I-E-I-E
Valve Stem to Guide Clearance?€"Intake mm (Inch) 0.020-0.069
(0.00078-0.00272)
Valve Stem to Guide Clearance?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 0.045-0.095 (0.0018-0.0037)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Intake mm (Inch) 44.5- (1.75)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 34.0 (1.34)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Gauge Diameters mm (Inch) 42.5- and 32.0
(1.67 and 1.26)
Valve Face Runout Limit mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Valve Face Angle 45.25-45.75 degrees
Valve Stem Diameter (STD)
?€"Intake mm (Inch) 6.995-6.975 (0.275-0.2746)
Valve Stem Diameter (Std)
?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 6.970-6.949 (0.274-0.2736)
Valve Springs?€"
Compression Pressure N @
Spec. Length?€"Intake 587.14 N @ 28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"
Compression Pressure N @
Spec. Length?€"Exhaust 587.14 N @
28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"Free
Length ( Approximate)?€"
Intake mm (Inch) 49.55 (1.951)
Valve Springs?€"Free
Length (Approximate)?€"
Exhaust mm (Inch) 49.55 (1.951)
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Intake 244.64 N @ 40.0 mm
Valve Spring?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Exhaust 244.64 N @ 40.0 mm
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Service Limit 10 % Pressure Less @ 28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Out of Square Limit 2 degrees
Valve Guide Inner
Diameter mm (Inch) 7.015-7.044 (0.2761-0.2773)
Rocker Arm?€"Ratio 1.75:1
Valve Tappet?€"Diameter
(STD) mm (Inch) 16.000-15.988 (0.66-0.629)
Valve Tappet?€"Clearance
to Bore mm (Inch) 0.018-0.069
(0.00071-0.00272)
Valve Tappet?€"Service
Limit mm (Inch) 0.016 (0.00063)
Valve Tappet?€"Hydraulic
Leakdown Rate b 5-25 seconds
Valve Tappet?€"Collapsed
Valve Tappet Gap?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0.085-0.45 (0.0033-0.0177)
Camshaft
Lobe Lift?€"Intake
mm (Inch) 6.58939 (0.2594)
Lobe Lift?€"Exhaust
mm (Inch) 6.58939 (0.2594)
Lobe Lift?€"Allowable
Lobe Lift Loss mm (Inch) 0 (0)
Theoretical Valve Lift @
Zero Lash?€"Intake
mm (Inch) 12.0 (0.472)
Theoretical Valve Lift @
Zero Lash?€"Exhaust
mm (Inch) 12.0 (0.472)
End Play mm (Inch) 0.025-0.165
(0.00098-0.0065)
Journal to Bearing
Clearance mm (Inch) 0.025-0.076
(0.00098-0.003
Journal to Bearing
Clearance?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.021 (0.0048)
Journal Diameter (All)
mm (Inch) 26.962-26.936
(1.061-1.060)
Journal Diameter (All)?€"
Bearing Inside Diameter
(All) mm (Inch) 27.012-26.987
(1.063-1.0625)
Camshaft Runout
mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Cylinder Bore
Diameter?€"Surface Finish
(RMS) 0.2-0.6 Microns
Diameter?€"Out-of-Round
Limit mm (Inch) 0.015 (0.0006)
Diameter?€"Out-of-Round
Service Limit mm (Inch) 0.020 (0.00079)
Diameter?€"Taper Service
Limit mm (Inch) 0.006 (0.00023)
Piston
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Red 1 mm (Inch) 90.177-90.197
(3.550-3.551)
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Blue 2 mm (Inch) 90.190-90.210
(3.5507-3.5515)
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Yellow 3 mm (Inch) 90.203-90.223
(3.513-3.5521)
Piston-to-Bore-Clearance
mm (Inch) -0.015 + 0.031 (0.0005-0.0012)
Pin Bore Diameter
mm (Inch) 22.0015-22.004
(0.866-0.8663)
Ring Groove Width?€"
Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.520-1.550 (0.06-0.610)
Ring Groove Width?€"
Compression (Bottom)
mm (Inch) 1.520-1.530 (0.060-0.0602)
Ring Groove Width?€"Oil
Ring mm (Inch) 6.996-7.224 (0.275-0.2844)
Piston Pin?€"Length
mm (Inch) 61.93-62.05 (2.44-2.443)
Diameter mm (Inch) 21.994-21.999
(0.866-0.8661)
Pin to Piston Clearance
mm (Inch) 0.005-0.010
(0.0002-0.0004)
Pin to Rod Clearance
mm (Inch) 0.015-0.040
(0.0006-0.00157)
Piston Rings?€"Ring Gap
?€"Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.0 MAX (0.0394)
Piston Rings?€"Ring Gap
?€"Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.0 MAX (0.0394)
Oil Ring?€"Side Clearance
mm (Inch) 1.25 MAX (0.05)
Oil Ring?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.040-0.090
(0.0016-0.0031)
Oil Ring?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.030-0.080
(0.0012-0.00031)
Oil Ring Snug Fit
Oil Ring?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.015 MAX (0.0006)
Ring Gap?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.23-0.49
(0.01-0.02)
Ring Gap?€"Compression
(Bottom) mm (Inch) 0.23-0.49
(0.01-0.02)
Ring Gap?€"Oil Ring (Steel
Rail) mm (Inch) 0.05-0.66 (0.006-0.026)
Lubrication System
Oil Capacity?€"Automatic
Transmission (Quarts U.S.) 6.675?±0.125
Oil Capacity?€"Manual
Transmission (Quarts U.S.) 6.425?±0.125
Cylinder Block
Main Bearing Bore
Diameter mm (Inch) 72.401-72.422 (2.85-2.851)
Crankshaft and Flywheel
Main Bearing Journal
Diameter mm (Inch) 67.483-67-503 (2.65-2.657)
Connecting Rod Journal?€"
Diameter mm (Inch) 52.988-53.003
(2.0861-2.0867)
Crankshaft Free End Play
mm (Inch) 0.130-0.301 (0.0051-0.012)
Crankshaft Runout to Rear
Face of Block mm (Inch) 0.050 MAX (0.002)
Connecting Rod Bearings
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0.027-0.069 (0.001-0.0027)
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Allowable mm (Inch) 0.027-0/069 (0.001-0.0027)
Bearing Wall Thickness
(STD) mm (Inch) 2.44-2.452 (0.096-0.0965)
Main Bearings
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0027-0.065
(0.0011-0.0026)
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Allowable mm (Inch) 0.027-0.065
(0.0011-0.0026)
Bearing Wall Thickness
(STD) mm (Inch) 1.920-1.928 (0.075-0.076)
Connecting Rod, Piston and Rings
Connecting Rod?€"Piston
Pin Bore Diameter
mm (Inch) 21.959-21.979
(0.864-0.865)
Connecting Rod?€"
Crankshaft Bearing Bore
Diameter mm (Inch) 56.756-56.876 (2.234-2.24)
Connecting Rod?€"Length
(Center-to-Center)
mm (Inch) 150.7 (5.93)
Alignment (Bore-to-Bore
Max. Diff.) c ?€"Twist
mm (Inch) 0.050 per 25 (0.0015-0.984)
Alignment (Bore-to-Bore
Max. Diff.)?€"Bend
mm (Inch) 0.038 per 25 (0.0015-0.984)
Side Clearance (Assembled
to Crank)?€"Standard
mm (Inch) 0.015-0.45 (0.0006-0.0177)
Side Clearance (Assembled
to Crank)?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.05 MAX (0.02)
Crankshaft Main Bearing
Journal Taper mm (Inch) 0.020 (0.0007)
Crankshaft Main Bearing
Journal Runout mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Crankshaft Connecting Rod
Journal Taper mm (Inch) 0.015 (0.0006)

Feb 15, 2011 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

The engine has blown. I need to replace it or change pistons and rings. How difficult is it to change pistons and rings?


It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods
  1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
    1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
    2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
    3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
    4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
    5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge tccs3923.gif

    6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert tccs3917.gif

  2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
  3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston tccs3222.gif

  4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer tccs3914.gif

  5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
  6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
  7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
  8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
  9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
  10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
  11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).
OHV Engines CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY
  1. Install the camshaft.
  2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
  3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.
CYLINDER HEAD(S)
  1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
  2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).
OHC Engines CYLINDER HEAD(S)
  1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
  2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.
Engine Covers and Components Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle. Engine Start-up and Break-in STARTING THE ENGINE Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.
  1. Connect the vehicle battery.
  2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
    Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
  3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
  4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
  5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
  6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed. prev.gif next.gif

Oct 17, 2010 | 1995 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

I have a 2003 YZ250. The engine seized up. There


The engine will need a complete overhaul. New bearings throughout, new piston, rings, water pump and a full set of seals. A cylinder bore job or new cylinder also. You are probably looking at $2000 to $2500 for the repairs. A used engine may be a lower cost choice. Google motorcycle salvage yamaha and see what you can find.

Nov 12, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

1 Answer

Top end repair: After all is removed and replaced, how do I reinstall the piston into the cylinder? What are torque specs for cyl? Inch or ft. lbs?


You will want to install the piston onto the crank before you install the cylinder and head. With the head and cylinder off, the crank rod will be exposed. Put some shop towels around the crank rod before you start to avoid dropping any small parts into your lower end while you replace the piston. Your new piston kit should come with: (1) piston, (2) circlips,(1) wrist pin and (1 or 2) rings depending on the bike. Also it is suggested that you should replace the wrist pin bearing as well (usually sold seperately). If you have not removed the existing piston you will need to remove one of the circlips from the side of the piston. Do this by using a small screwdriver in the teardrop hole where the wristpin attaches the piston to the crank. Then push the wristpin through the piston from the side that still has a circlip through the side that it has been removed from. Once the wristpin is out, the piston will pull straight up off the crank and the wristpin bearing will slide out of the crank rod. Before installing your new parts you will want to have some 2-Stroke oil on hand. Lube up the wrist pin bearing with 2-stroke oil and slide it into the crank rod. Install ONE of the circlips into the piston before connecting it to the bike. Do this in a clean area because these things like to jump out when you're trying to put them in. BE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Once ONE circlip is in, slide the piston over the crank rod WITH THE ARROW ON THE TOP OF THE PISTON FACING THE EXHAUST!! so the wrist pin hole lines up with the wrist pin bearings. Lube the wrist pin and slide it into the piston from the side with out the circlip, through the wrist pin bearing until it seats against the circlip installed on the opposite side. Install the second circlip and MAKE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Install the rings onto the piston. (Some OEM rings have a flat side and a sloped side be sure to match the piston you have removed) Notice that there are tiny notches in the rings that must line up with nipples in the ring seats. This is the only way the cylinder will slide on properly. Next, put a thin coat of oil on the cylinder walls, remove the shop towels, and put on the cylinder base gasket. Now, with one hand, pinch the rings tight to the ring seats making sure the nipples in the ring seats sit in the notches of the rings. With the other hand, slide the cylinder over the piston. THIS SHOULD SLIDE DOWN EASILY! If not, remove the cylinder, verify the rings are properly seating in the ring seats and try again. Once the cylinder is on install the base nuts. If you can get a torque wrench on the cylinder base nuts tighten down to manufacture spec's (24 ft lbs) Usually you can not get a torque wrench on the base nuts because the cylinder walls are in the way so I give it a german torque "goot-n-tite" (good and tight). Next put the head gasket on and the head gasket, and tighten down finger tight. Do this in a criss cross pattern, starting off with hand tight, then 3 or 4 steps until reaching the manufacture spec (18 ft.lbs). Put the plug in and you should be ready to go. Be sure to break in properly by running 3 heat cycles through the enging. From fully cooled, start the bike and ride it using NO MORE THAN 1/2 throttle until it reaches full temp. keeping the RPM's varying. Let cool COMPLETELY. Second heat cycle, same thing except use up to 3/4 throttle. Cool COMPLETLY AGAIN. Third heat cycle ride up to full throttle. Be sure to keep the RPM's varying in all heat cycles. No long runs at the same RPM level. Here is where I got the specs for the cylinder and head torque settings so you may want to call a local shop and verify. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-764174.html

Oct 11, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

1 Answer

I had to replase the piston and fogot how to put it back togther


Put the piston in with the mark on the top of the piston facing the exhaust port of the cylinder. put one circlip in the piston in the bore seated correctly in the groove. place piston over rod facing correct direction and insert wristpin into piston and through the rod needle bearing in the top of the rod. insert other circlip and seat correctly in groove. install compression rings with letter or any markings facing up. markings usually located at end gap on either side. install oil ring with straight ring on top squiggly ring in center and straight ring on bottom all in the same groove which will be the lowest groove on the piston.stagger all the ring end gaps. do not let all the gaps line up. install base gasket on engine case. clean everything and make sure everything stays clean. slide cylinder over piston and compress rings with fingers and finesse cylinder over piston. do not force. put nuts on studs and tighten to spec in service manual. install head gasket correctly and put head on and put nuts on studs. tighten to spec. reassemble rest of motorcycle and get hurt! have fun

Jul 28, 2009 | kawasaki KX 250 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Motor not turning over


bearing or more likely piston is wrong bore size

Jun 08, 2009 | 1999 Yamaha YZF-R6

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