The manual shows 12 splines on clutch plates and 6 steel plates witch allows an even spaces to balance the clutch but the clutch only has 10 splines so if you put it together the way the book says steel plate no:1 and no:6 are in the same position so can any one tell me how to its done .
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
How much free play on the clutch cable or is it hydraulic? You must have some free play, if you do not this could be the cause off slipping in 5th gear. Also if all the plates look good , not flaked or burnt, the proper thickness, then you need to check the clutch pack clearance: this is .010 per plate set (one friction/steel). some clutches need to be shimmed to reduce the clearance. Then you can sand/ up the steel plated with 60 - 100 grit sand paper on both sides and put in new springs or a stronger aftermarket spring set. I hope this helps. As for the noise I would ask a dealer as I am not to sure about that. Thanks Rod
Hi Anonymous, and the usual suspects are:
1. Incorrect clutch release adjustment.
2. Worn clutch release worm and lever.
3. Excessive clutch spring tension.
4. Gummy clutch friction plates.
5. Warped clutch steel plates.
6. Badly worn or damaged clutch sproket keys.
Visit the website below for an almost free ($7.00) download of a 1959-1969 sportster service manual which you will need for a clutch adjustment. Good luck 1959 1969 Sportster Factory Service Manual 99484 69
check and adjust the clutch cable as they do stretch
check that the correct oil is used in the gear box/clutch section as the incorrect oil will cause the clutch plates to stick on the pressure plate sections.
I am not familiar with your model. However what I can think of that would cause the symptom you have with a basket case assembly: Improper clutch assembly( pressure plate not engaged properly with inner clutch hub; needs to be rotated 1 or more teeth so as to seat fully on plates), improper plate stacking or # of plates. Incorrect location of clutch cable mounting bracket. If clutch arm is of the splined type, incorrect placement on the splined release shaft. hope something helps
IT MAYBE SOMETHING QUITE SIMPLE LIKE, NO FREE PLAY AT CLUCH LEVER, YOU MUST HAVE AT LEAST 5 MM PLAY AT THE LEVER, THAT IS THE AMOUNT OF FREE MOVMENT YOU CAN PUL IN THE CLUTCH BEFORE ANY PRESSURE IS FELT, HAVE YOU BEEN ADDJUSTING THIS, DOES THE LEVER FEELVERY SPRINGY, IF SO BACK OF THE ADDJUSTER AND GIVE YOURSELF SOME FREE PLAY, PORELY ADJUSTED CONTROLS CAN CAUSE THE CLUTCH TO BURN OUT IF THIS OCCURED WHILE RIDEING THE MACHINE IT MAY BE THE CLUTCH PLATES HAVE FAILED, REMOVE OIL FILLER PLUG, A BURNING SMELL WILL BE NOTICED IN SOME CASES, FURTHERMORE, REMOVE THE FRONT SPROCKET COVER AND CHECK THE RETAINING DEVICE HAS NOT COME AWAY ALOWING THE SPROCKET TO COME OF THE SPLINED SHAFT, OR EVEN ROUNDED THE CENTRE OF THE SPROCKET CAUSING DRIVE FAILURE.
your clutch is simply a stack of friction disks and metal plates. The friction disks are splined into the outer hub ring and alternate, one friction disk / one plate / one friction disk / one plate etc. It's very simple to free this up if it's locked up. remove clutch cover. If you are unsure which is your clutch cover, follow the clutch lever cable to the actuator arm. remove the cable from arm and all bolts holding the cover. as you pull out the cover, you will see the arm rotate that's because it's geared into an arm that is connected to the front plate of the clutch basket assembly. You'll see it as soon as you pull it off. now you'll be looking at a round plate with 6 bolts with springs underneath. when you arent pulling the lever, these springs are extended and push the friction disks and metal plates together, thereby locking the inner hub to the outer hub. The inner hub is connected to the crank, and the outer hub is connected to the transmission input gear. So, if pressed together by the springs, your engine running causes your bike to move. Pulling the clutch lever in pulls the spring tension off the plates and allows them to separate. This allows your engine to be disconnected from the transmission. If your plates are locked together you will remove them one by one if you can and lubricate between each plate and disk and reinstalling. Pay close attention to how it came apart. Reinstall bolts and springs reinstall cover, aligning the lever gear teeth with the front of the clutches teeth correctly. put it all together and see if you are okay now.
it looks like you have worn clutch plates very common on learner bikes.
but do try to adjust the clutch cable first by winding the adjuster on the clutch lever.
if this fails drain the eng oil and remove the left hand eng cover to get at the clutch plates. remove the springs by turning retaining bolts about 6 of them.
then your clutch plates will slide out off the drum
any bent steel plates even a little replace. any dark or burnt friction plates also replace, usually done all in one go and quite cheap to do .
fit new parts in exactly reverse order dont forget new oil re set cable and off you go
p.s also check clutch basket for tiny notches from plate wear if very little a gentle file will sort this
Please pardon my response if it is too simple, but did you correctly align the pressure plate (Center part that tops the clutch plates and has springs bolted through it.) with the inner clutch basket (the part inside the clutch basket that the pressure plates spline onto)? If this is not aligned, the pressure plate will not fully engage the clutch plates. Both parts usually have an indicator mark that shows proper alignment.
It is important after replacing clutch discs that the 'free play' for the pressure plate is adjusted. First loosen the clutch cable adjuster so there is excessive free play on the clutch lever. Then loosen the locknut on the pressure plate adjustment rod and loosen the rod (turn it clockwise) until there is no pressure then turn it the other way until there is contact. Now turn it the other direction about 1/4 turn and while holding it there tighten the lock nut. After that is complete adjust the clutch handle so there is about 10mm free plat at the end of the lever.