The manual shows 12 splines on clutch plates and 6 steel plates witch allows an even spaces to balance the clutch but the clutch only has 10 splines so if you put it together the way the book says steel plate no:1 and no:6 are in the same position so can any one tell me how to its done .
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Your problem is probably that you have the clutch plate out of position and the clutch shaft is not being allowed to line up with the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft. . Get a cheap clutch aligning tool, loosen off the pressure plate bolts and align the clutch plate. Having done that retension the pressure plate bolts. Keep the gearbox evenly spaced around the bell housing as any misalignment will not allow the clutch shaft to engage in the clutch plate and the spigot bearing.
I am not familiar with your model. However what I can think of that would cause the symptom you have with a basket case assembly: Improper clutch assembly( pressure plate not engaged properly with inner clutch hub; needs to be rotated 1 or more teeth so as to seat fully on plates), improper plate stacking or # of plates. Incorrect location of clutch cable mounting bracket. If clutch arm is of the splined type, incorrect placement on the splined release shaft. hope something helps
this sounds like the throwout breaing is going or gone bad and may have lost it purpose of controling the pressure plate, by not being able to select a gear tells me something has gone bad in the clutch system like the bearing which pushes the pressure plate to release the cluch which allow ****** to stop spinning so that the gear can be selected. the repair for this would be to replace the clutch kit. the clutch pack will come with new bearing clutch disc and pressure plate and if needed a polit bushing, the whining noise was a warning that something in the cluch system was going bad.
it looks like you have worn clutch plates very common on learner bikes.
but do try to adjust the clutch cable first by winding the adjuster on the clutch lever.
if this fails drain the eng oil and remove the left hand eng cover to get at the clutch plates. remove the springs by turning retaining bolts about 6 of them.
then your clutch plates will slide out off the drum
any bent steel plates even a little replace. any dark or burnt friction plates also replace, usually done all in one go and quite cheap to do .
fit new parts in exactly reverse order dont forget new oil re set cable and off you go
p.s also check clutch basket for tiny notches from plate wear if very little a gentle file will sort this
y are going to replace the clutch bearing as well y also need to hire an alinment tool first undo the hyd oil cap and cover in polly re screw cap back on this should stop hyd oil seeping when y disconnect it at the cluch end undo the housing bolts and withdraw the clutch pressure plate and bearing simple y ithe first time i did it i forget to put the bearing on ha
Please pardon my response if it is too simple, but did you correctly align the pressure plate (Center part that tops the clutch plates and has springs bolted through it.) with the inner clutch basket (the part inside the clutch basket that the pressure plates spline onto)? If this is not aligned, the pressure plate will not fully engage the clutch plates. Both parts usually have an indicator mark that shows proper alignment.
hi, if you have a manual gearbox then you dont have a torque converter a torque converter is what changes the gears in an automatic gearbox as your is manual all you will have inside your gearbox is a pressure plate a clutch plate and a thrust bearing witch operates the clutch when you press the pedal down. The only thing you need to line up on a manual box is when you have fitted the new clutch you need to have a tool that holds the clutch plate central so that when you tighten the bolts up on the pressure plate the clutch stays central if you dont do this you wont be able to get the gearbox back onto the engine as the spline from the gearbox wont be able to go through the center of the clutch into the engine.
You can make or use you own tool to hold the clitch dead center as long as its a good fit and about the same size as the spline, so once you have the new clutch in and the pressure plate loosely bolted on you can still move the clutch around behind the pressure plate now right in the center their is a hole in the pressure plate and the clutch plate this is where the tool needs to be put so that the clutch plate remains dead center whilst you tighten the pressure plate up this will then make sure that the spline on the gearbox lines up properly not doing this will make it impossible to get the gearbox on properly.
Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok