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check with a multmeter if the two poles generator gives the required voltage must be no less than 12.8-13.0 volts at increasing speed and includes stop lights and headlamp reach values do13.8-15.0 volts maximum.If give more than 15,0 volts or small than 12.5 change relay rectifier.
First check all the conections on and around the regulator rectifier, also alternator, disconect the rectifier, carefully observe the unit for corrosion, and visible damage to the unit like burning to the rear bakalite construction, and the three yellow wires on the unit, the three yellow wires come from the alternator, converting the ac voltage to dc charging the battery via red wire, check the alternator output on the three yellows with the engine running they should all be around the same voltage,
it sounds like your charging system is out. use your volt meter check the battery charge before you start the bike, it should read about 12 volt, start your bike now, check you meter you should be running about 13.5 volts. rev your bike watch your meter it should spike around 14.5 if your meter jumps up over 15 your reg/rec is not working right, if it drops when you rev the bike you stator is not working. Its always best to replace them as a pair as they work as a pair and bad old part can kill a nice new pricey part if you follow what im saying. the stator is the coil winding that makes a/c power after its made it goes to regulator/ rectifier it's job is take that a/c power and make it d/c (you can only make a/c power and store d/c power) it also regulates the volts around 13.5. see what you got and let me know hope this helps M.Woodring
Hi Doitall4ya, you may have a faulty alternator rotor or the rectifier has a faulty ground and I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki but despair not for a mere $15.00 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. 2002 Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals
Since the solenoid clicks the starter button works. follow the positive battery cable to the solenoid. Jump the two solenoid posts, if the starter works , you have a bad solenoid. Hold the starter button and gently tap on the starter with a plastic hammer. If the starter works you need new brushes. If you take the starter apart and the coils are burnt or the armature is shorted , you need a new starter. When testing an armature you should have continuity between every other brush contact point.
It will be a permanent magnet alternator, there are no carbon brushes, you will need a manual for that model and start checking resistances with a multi meter.
without being able to tell you exact readings...
there will be three wires the same color coming from the stator(usually all yellow or all white) the resistance between any pair must be the same, and none of them should indicate to ground. When the bike is running any pair of these will produce about 50volts AC.
If this checks out you probably need a new regulator
Hi Thealtier609, check your wire from the rectifier to the circuit breaker or the battery positive and I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Harley but despair not for a mere $15.00 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. 1999 Suzuki Motorcycle Service Repair Workshop Manuals
The three yellow wires carry AC current from the generator to the rectifier. The rectifier turns this AC current into DC current and sends it back to the battery through the red and the black wires. I am not certain what the purpose of the 7th wire is on the new rectifier except that it may be used for thermal sensing of the rectifier - which would explain why it is mounted tight to the unit.
Of all the components that make up your Honda's charging system, the rectifier is the most likely to fail. The reason is usually excess temperature buildup - which causes the diodes inside it to fail. If you are running extra electrical accessories on your bike, this can cause the rectifier to overheat and die. Same thing if you frequently let the bike sit until the battery goes dead, the rectifier works hard to recharge it each time.
You may be able to extend the life of the unit by avoiding things that put extra strain on it, as described above. Also make sure there's nothing covering the cooling fins on the rectifier - or blocking airflow to it (dirt, that extra pair of gloves stuffed next to it, etc.).
Finally, there's one thing that will kill the rectifier instantly: connecting the battery cables backwards. That'll fry it every time.