Trying to cure an earthing fault which is blowing my 20 amp fuse and knocking my indicators and fuel gauge out as well as i need to find my carbereetuer idle adjuster aS TICKING OVER AT 1600 TO 1700 RPM
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Check for 12 volts at the orange wire on the fuel gauge. If missing check instrument fuse and associated wiring. If present do the following checks:
1. Remove gauge. Ground Y/W wire of fuel gauge sender located at bottom of gauge. Turn ignition switch ON.
a. Fuel gauge must indicate FULL. If gauge indicated FULL, gauge is functioning correctly and go to step 2.
b. If gauge did not indicate FULL, proceed to step 3.
2. Set MULTI-METER to resistance scale to measure the resistance of the sending unit. Place one probe on Y/W and the other probe on a good ground.
a. If fuel tank is full, the reading should be 40 ohms. An empty tank should have a 240 ohm resistance. A half full tank will be pproximately 97-118 ohms.
b. If a very high resistance or infinity is indicated on the meter, the sender may be "open" or not grounded. Check that sender and fuel tank are grounded by placing one probe of Multi-Meter on sender ****** and the other probe on crankcase. Meter must indicate one ohm or less. Replace sender if one ohm or less was present. If a higher resistance is present, check for poor connection on ground wire.
A diode is basically a one way valve. the most likely fault is a short in the fuel pump cabling, or in the fuel pump. A fuse is to protect the hardware from over current, which happens when there is a short to earth or a high resistance coil in the circuit. It could just as easily be a loose cable on the earth.
The EFI fuse, powers the ECU, the injector 12V feed, and the fuel pump. If it does it within a few seconds of trying to start the bike, it is the fuel pump. The bike has been stored for a while and the old fuel has gummed up the pump rotors, which stalls the pump and blows the fuse.
If it is whilst it tries to run, then a short on the injector feeds or ECU wiring loom is favourite...do not try a 20A fuse
Thgis could be many things, my best guess would be a bad earth somewhere causing a back feed blowing these fuses. If this is one fuse controlling the Fuel Pump and Odometer, check what else is connected on that circuit.
Sounds like you have a ground fault. I once had a car with a faulty ground wire on the headlight, when I put high beam on the speedo would jump to 170km/h and the indicators would glow dimly. Sure sounds like a similar ground fault to me, check all the ground straps, from the headlight or anywhere else you can think of.
The flasher unit is called the TSSM module. It is a combined flasher and alarm unit. A new one will require your alarm keyfobs to be matched to it. An expensive unit if faulty. If you replaced the earth wires and now its blowing fuses, then I would check your work. The fault has changed after you worked on the vehicle so logic dictates you have caused this. The black wire is usually the earth on these indicators but it is a possibility that these are routed through the TSSM module. You might have done damage if this is so.
Fuses are a SAFETY device. Never replace fuses with larger amp ones. Take the bike to an authorized repair shop and get it done right. There could be a short or relay problem that can lead to more extensive problems down the road. Safety devices are put in place to protect you and the system. Like in a home: if you run 14-2w/grd to light fixture the max fuse to use is 15amp fuse. never put a 20 in because the wire can melt at higher amps. Same with your bike. the wire is not rated to handel more than is was designed and fused for.