Question about 2002 Honda CR 250 R

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Bike keeps nosing over at 3/4 throttle

The bike runs really strong all the way through the rpm range untill i give it more than 3/4 throttle, then it just noses over as if there was no fuel all of a sudden. i have checked the powervalve and carb already and both are functioning very well, i also checked my spark plug and tried several. any help would be appreciated.

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  • steven_sleig Feb 01, 2009

    thanks you for the reply. i actually just bought the bike and it has done this since the date of purchase, i checked the jetting though and it goes with the specs suggested from pro curcuit with their pipe set up(which it has). i have ran both the ngk BR8EG and BR8ES spark plugs and both did the same thing. what would be a hotter spark plug?

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The best spark plug you can buy is a ngk br8eix they are about 6-8 dallors depending where you buy. e bay has them about 20 for 2 with shipping. also you are to use 92 oct gas in the bike witch might reduce some of the noise. if you dont have one get your self a owners book they tell you a lot. you can get for about 15 bucks on e bay.

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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I used to have this same problem with my cr 125 until I went to a hotter spark plug. If the hotter spark plug doesnt work I would change your coil. These are the only 2 things that I can see going wrong, unless you have recently put performance parts on it then it could need to be rejetted.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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1 Answer

What are standard settings for idle and air mixture screws


The idle speed will be dependent on model, particularly if 4- or 2-cycle, 2, 4, 6 cylinders, etc. If your engine uses carburetors, I'd say no less than 600 RPM, maybe up to 850 RPM at idle. If your engine is fuel injected, the computer should set the idle speed and air mixture for you (if it's functioning correctly), and a big twin could idle as high as 1150 RPM .

Your Idle air mixture settings are important for proper idle. A good approach is to let the engine tell you what it likes. For this method you will need either a tachometer or a vacuum gauge. Here are some steps to guide you.

1) If the engine will start and run, go from there. If not, a good initial setting is to turn the idle screw(s) all the way in (GENTLY--don't break the seats!), then back them out about 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns.
2) Attach either your tachometer or vacuum gauge to your engine. Tach is connected to the ignition system (usually at the coil); vacuum gauge would be connected to a manifold vacuum port. (The bike's built-in tach MAY work for this, but they are often not graduated finely enough.)
3) If using a tachometer, warm up the engine. Working on only one idle mixture screw at a time, begin turning it IN until RPM begins to decrease. Then back the screw OUT again until you achieve maximum RPM on that screw. Feel free to "play," turning the screw in and out until you achieve highest RPM at at minimum turn-out (if you leave it turned out too far, bike will run rich and foul spark plugs; if not far enough, bike will run lean and hot). Now do the other idle mixture screws the same way. Finally, go back and do all the mixture screws again (and again and again, if necessary) until all throttle bores are synchronized.
4) If using a vacuum gauge, engine temp is not as critical, but go ahead and warm it up anyway. Similarly to the tachometer method, turn the mixture screws in until RPM drops, then out until max vacuum reading at minimum turn-out. If you have multiple mixture screws, do the same on each, then repeat on all screws until you feel they are all synchronized.
5) Throughout the process of adjusting idle air mixture screws, you will probably have to adjust the idle screws to keep the engine in the RPM range you want it to idle. (If adjusting air mixture screws has no effect on the engine idle, the minimum requirement is probably a carburetor rebuild.)
6) Have fun getting to know what your engine "likes!"

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If the bike is equipped with a carburetor, try not using the enricher (choke) so long. The enricher circuit in the carburetor is extremely rich. I see people let their bikes run for almost ten minutes with the enricher on and they can't figure out why they are fouling plugs. Only run the enricher until you can get the engine to run with the throttle. I use the throttle lock located on the underside of the throttle grip. Just idle the engine up that about 1500-1700 RPM, turn the enricher off, and tighten the little knob just enough to hold the throttle and keep the engine running until it warms up. Prevents you from fouling plugs. If this is not the case or you have fuel injection on your bike, you may need to take it to a qualified mechanic. I don't advise tearing into your carb or fuel injection unless you know what you're doing.

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