For home diving boards, the fulcrum is usually unmovable because giving too much spring can be dangerous. on professional diving boards, the fulcrum can be adjusted to be more or less springy
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It's very common to have a squeaking diving board. This because they get rusty very easily. You'll need to lubricate the joints with WD40 on a regular basis to keep it from rusting up. Also, be aware that squeaking could be a sign that the safety of your board is compromised.
It's safe as long as you are making sure to leap back as far as possible. Before you try it you should get some practice without the board just to make sure you are getting far enough away.
im not sure what red head concrete bolts are but typically you drill a hole just smaller than the bolt into the concrete with a concrete drill bit then screw in the bolts. make sure to not over tighten or make the hole too big you could break off the head.
Check the spring pin that locks the motor shaft to the main drive gear in the gear box. You should be able to turn the motor from the back at the cooling fins and watch the shaft spin in the gear, that is if the pin is sheared. That is a common problem. if you plan on keeping this machine for a while, i recomend that you spend a little more on a quality spring pin,
The scuba regulator is employed in an open-circuit scuba set. Said scuba equipment reduces high air pressure conveyed by the diving cylinder to the first stage and feeds breathable gas to the diver through the second stage's mouthpiece. Also called pressure regulator or demand regulator, the scuba equipment is one of the essentials to diving that determines breathing quality and inhalation effort during the dive. But given the different types of regulators and the pertinent design of its first and second stage components, how should a neophyte diver - or even a seasoned diver at that, choose a scuba regulator that incorporates user adjustment and delivers a venturi-assisted air flow in its features? Consider your diving purpose and frequency. Better yet, take note of the following criteria to guide you in your purchase:
1. The Scuba Regulator's Mouthpiece. Check the specifications if the regulator is outfitted with a patented orthodontic mouthpiece. This implies that it is ergonomically-designed to accommodate an overbite or underbite by the human mouth. An ergonomic mouthpiece helps reduce fatigue in the mouth and jaw area, particularly in the cruise of lower depths and extended dives.
2. User Adjustment Settings. There are optimally-designed scuba regulators that are outfitted with adjustment levers to therefore allow divers to finetune valve settings in order to provide the least possible inhalation effort throughout the dive. One notable scuba equipment is the Aeris AT 400 Pro Regulator that is equipped with an adjustable second stage.
3. Weight of the Scuba Regulator. Visualize yourself on a dive and using just any other type of scuba regulator. Is the regulator bulky to considerably increase drag and cause jaw fatigue or is it buoyant enough for you to carry around with your mouth? Lightweight scuba regulators use polycarbonate thermoplastics for its housing to make the scuba equipment compact, sturdy and corrosion-resistant that makes them fit for extended use.
4. Nitrox Compatibility. This entails an ocular inspection of the cylinder tank (Nitrogen and Oxygen proportions) and scuba regulator (Nitrox compatibility) specifications. As a matter of convention, most regulators are suited for nitrox mixture use out of the box; containing the standard, maximum proportion of 40% Oxygen (in terms of volume) but then again, there are gas mixes supporting leaner proportions of oxygen such as the trimix. Therefore, check if the scuba regulator supports the gas mixture configured for your diving cylinder prior to purchase.
5. No-Contaminant Feature. As much as possible, choose a diving regulator that has been manufactured using Dry Valve Technology (DVT). DVT operates through an automatic valve that prevents contamination of the first stage mechanism to thus prevent regulator flooding and the entry of moisture or dust particles. This likely improves scuba regulator performance and extends its useful life.
6. Air-Sharing Feature. This feature often associated with octopus regulators (used as a spare demand valve or alternate second stage) will prove to be most helpful during diving emergencies such as a free flow or during diver rescues. High performance octopus regulators such as the Aeris Gyro Octopus Regulator are designed lightweight and with air-sharing feature, while sporting an inline swivel for convenience mounting and flexibility
This may not be the steering box at all. It could be some other suspension component such as tie rod ends, drag link, pitman arm ect. Also be sure to check the rag joint on the steering shaft/column as waer in these can cause the ducking and diving you describe.Consult a repair manual for proper adjustment of your steering box. For most steering boxes I have had to adjust you loosen the jamnut and tighten the adjustment screw down until it hits the stop then back off half to three quarters and tighten the jamnut.
×