I do an over all of the engine new piston clean everithing an when i reassemble it it doing great fire i try to start it it doing a couple of petouff and thats it i check the fire and no fire so what i have to check i wanna know how to check my ignition coil tanks
Being that this bike is vintage. You prob have points if not then you have a magneto and coil on the left side you will see wires coming out of the case by where your foot would be. There should be like 6 or 8 phillips head bolts to take case off. Look and inspect and see if maybe you did not tighten the magneto by the flywheel it should be two screws. Try that if the doesnt help. try to jump across the coil from one side to the other see if it fires. If that doesnt help. You may need new cdi box. If theres points I cant help you much never dealt with them much myself sorry. Hope this helps ya.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Carbs need to be cleaned regularly. If yours is a Solex, merely pop off the top and clean the piston and surrounding cylinder. Lightly oil and reassemble. Makes all the difference.
The gearbox has a bit of a fuzzy history which includes weak synchros, aside from that, I love these cars...had three of them.
The engine is generally solid, but can have multiple oil leak problems. New seals fixes, but it's a PIA.
Body rot is common. Rust everywhere. Arrest it ASAP.
Great fun to drive. Happy motoring!
THERE IS ONLY ONE FIRING ORDER FOR THIS IT HAS BEEN THE SAME SINCE 1960??? 18436572 WITH NO1 IF YOU ARE STANDING STRAIGHT IN FRONT OF THE ENGINE YOUR HEI DIST SHOULD HAVE 2 PRONGS STRAIGHT ACCROSS FACING YOU IF IT IS NOT YOU MUST PULL THE DIST, ROTATE THE ENGINE AROUND TO COMPRESSION STROKE, VERIFY THIS BY THE POINTER ON THE TIMING COVER SET IT TO 0 WITH THE PISTON IN NO1 CYLINDER UP IF NO 1 PISTON IS NOT UP FULLY EXTENDED IN THE SPARK PLUG HOLE YOU ARE NOT AT NO 1 IF THE PISTON IS FULLY EXTENDED AND YOU HEARD A AIR SOUND THEN YOU ARE RIGHT, PLACE THE DIST BACK IN TURN THE ROTOR 1 TO 2 NOTCHES BACK TO THE RIGHT AND HAVE SOME ONE CRANK THE ENGINE IN SPURTS, IT SHOULD DROP IN, THEN REPEAT THE PROCESS TO VERIFY YOU ARE ACTUALLY ON NO1 THEN BEGIN THE WIRING
Sounds like the unloader is cruddy with mineral deposits and sticking, if you pry off the silver cap, remove the
black cover, use an Allen wrench to remove the two "star" screws (or
you can remove the four engine mounts and remove the whole engine), lift
out the white plastic part with the brass needle & spring, finally
lift out the stainless steel piston or start up the engine
(make sure you have the water hooked up and running) and watch out for the
piston as it will shoot out ( placed a towel over the piston before starting
the engine). Then you can put white lithium grease all over the piston
Run a compression check on the engine, you may find several to all cylinders at zero to very low readings due to the engine being an interference engine--which means that if the timing belt breaks while running, valves and pistons will lose their reference to each other and cause several to many collisions between those multiple components. The compression check will confirm this. The proper fix in this case is to remove the cylinder head(s)(if a V6) and inspect the valves and pistons for damage, replacing either bent valves, or punched through pistons. In any case, this will likely cost a bundle of cash to fix. If not reassembled correctly, this problem could reoccur when you try to start it again. Best to have a lot of confidence in the person doing the repairs! You might look at replacing the engine outright with a new or professionally rebuilt engine from another country. The proper time to replace the timing belt is before it breaks! Hope this helps!
This usually happens after a long period of storage: the first time you apply the brakes, they fail to release their grip on the brake rotors. Moisture in the system causes corrosion to develop which prevents the caliper pistons from retracting when the brake lever (or brake pedal) is released.
What you need to do is take the calipers apart and remove the pistons. With the pistons removed, carefully pry out the rubber piston seals and soak everything in soapy water. Using a dental instrument or similar device, be sure to clean all of the corrosion from the groove where the piston seal fits into the caliper. Replace the seal and reassemble everything using clean DOT3 brake fluid as it goes back together.
Refill the system with new brake fluid and bleed out the air. Once completed, your brakes should work like new.
needle and seat are worn out in carb, to much fuel is flooding cylinder. remove carb, clean, get new needle and seat, set float. problem goes away. pull your plug after kicking. its probably wet.
When you push, or pull start you evacuate excessive fuel, when engine is warm, easier to start extra fuel burns easier.
This is a typical problem with small engines that are not used often or only used seasonally
The problem exist when it is not prepped for storage properly, meaning that the fuel is not shut off and the engine allowed to burn off the remaining fuel that's left in the carburetors float bowl, causing the un-spent fuel to sour and later creating a condition called varnishing which clogs the carburetor venteries
All of these steps will require the use of skin and eye protection!!!
The solution is to replace the old fuel in the tank with fresh, its not a bad idea to replace the fuel filter at this time, then with the petcock in the off position remove the carburetor float bowl, inspect the gasket or seal for imperfections (replace as needed) and clean it along with the float assy. and piston check valve with a spray type carburetor & choke cleaner and gently wiping with a clean lint free cloth so as to remove all yellowish colored varnish and any debris, before reassembly place a glass or metal catch pan or bowl under the carburetor and turn the petcock to the on position to allow fresh fuel to flush out the fuel line and now LIGHTLY & GENTLY (without resistence) lift the float up, the fuel should stop flowing. If it does not stop, repeat cleaning procedure. If it does turn the petcock to off and reassemble. After reassembly turn the petcock to on, the engine should run.
Another preventive step is the use of a product called STA-BIL fuel stabilizer