Air out of right exhaust much warmer than left exhaust.
I have Rush slip on's on my bike. The air being emitted from the right side exhaust (front cylinder) is warmer and stronger than the exhaust air being emitted from the left (rear cylinder). The right (front) slip on portion of the exhaust is much warmer to the touch than the left side (rear cylinder). I noticed in the left (rear) slipon a littleness wetness (black and oily) at the bottom rear of same. The bike seems to be running ok however. I have noticed some difference in the sound. Doesn't sound as strong and or as loud. Both spark plugs appear to have the same color with respect to firing. Neither plug is oily. The check engine light comes back on for a few seconds after start up then goes off and doesn't come on again until after the next start up. The year model is a 2007. The selector down below would not allow the choice of an 07. 2007 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic.
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Hello, it sound like you might have a dead battery. Remove the battery and
have it charged. Also, replace the mass air flow sensor. It is located at the
front of Plenum next to the throttle control. There will be approx. 1/2 hole
with two minute wires that are parallel to each other. Let me see here, the
throttle is located on left side of the plenum and the mass air flow sensor is
located on the right side (driver side). Remove the rubber boot that fits over
the front of intake plenum. One more thing, if the mass air flow sensor MASF is
totally shot. Your vehicle will not start. Best of luck, GB...stewbison
Clay, you have a tiger by the tail. There are a lot of little parts to the carb system. I will try to assist you in the basics without carb removal. This may require a few replies back and forth. Start by turning off the gas then drain the carbs. Now turn on the gas and check to see that fuel flows into each carb. If gas starts flowing out of all the float bowls, now that the gas is back on, then all carbs are getting gas. To drain the carbs just remove the drain screw on the bottom of each carb float bowl. Two carbs have the drain screw on the left, two have it on the right side. Reply with what you find.
if there are air valves, those early bike sometimes needed air, about 5psi, do not use a compresor, use a small hand pump, or proper low pressure inflator. A standard tyre inflater will blow the seals.
The guard should not hit no matter what the pressure, check the exhaust is the correct one for the bike,check for a bent frame or forks
Remove distributor to spark plug wires (12286) using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
If equipped with secondary air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube (9B480).
Remove attaching bolts and right exhaust manifold (9430).
Inspect joint faces for signs fo exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make exhaust manifold unfit for use
1. Remove oil level indicator tube (6754).
Remove spark plug heat shield.
Remove distributor to spark plug wires using Spark Plug Wire Remover T74P-6666-A.
Disconnect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube (9D477). If equipped with air injection, disconnect the secondary air injection check valve tube.
Disconnect muffler inlet pipe.
Remove attaching bolts and exhaust manifold (9431).
Inspect joint faces for signs of exhaust leaks, cracks or any defect that would make the exhaust manifold unfit for use.
Clean mating surfaces of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and cylinder head (6049). Clean mounting flange of right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold and inlet pipe(s). Clean mounting surface for air injection tube or right exhaust manifold. Apply light film of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold.
Position right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold on cylinder head. Install attaching bolts and washers, starting at fourth bolt hole from front of each right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Tighten bolts to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft), working from center right to both ends.
Position inlet pipes to right exhaust manifold or left exhaust manifold. Install attaching nuts and tighten to 34-47 Nm (25-35 lb-ft).
Position the secondary air injection check valve tube and the secondary air injection tube gasket (9C435) at rear of right-hand exhaust manifold. Install attaching bolts and tighten to 19-25 Nm (14-18 lb-ft).
Attach the secondary air injection manifold tube (9B449) to left-hand exhaust manifold fitting (located under EGR tube). Tighten nut to 30-40 Nm (22-30 lb-ft).
Attach the secondary air injection check valve tube to rear of right-hand cylinder head. Tighten bolts to 75-85 Nm (56-62 lb-ft).
Connect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 53-72 Nm (39-53 lb-ft).
Install spark plug heat shield and distributor to spark plug wires.
Install oil level indicator tube to left exhaust manifold, if removed. Tighten nut to 13-24 Nm (10-18 lb-ft).
well....I would say the RUSH slip on's have a nice sound and give some performance increase. I put them on my XL883 and now it sounds like a harley instead of a moped. They have a nice deep sound to them and have a good bark to them when you get on it, but at cruise tame down to a nice rumble. You can put on the rush slip on's up to a 2" baffle with out needing to remap, now when you change your air cleaner too, a remap would be in order.
The left side is set for your grill. There is apparently a switch under the left side top / front of the cooktop. The aeration tray has a prong on one end that fits into a hole in the front end of the burner basin and activates the switch which stops the fan from coming on when using the burners and allows the fan to run when using the grill. Try switching sides with the aeration trays as one might make better contact than the other.