Question about 2008 BMW F 650 GS

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Brake lever replacement

Hands up ! I have just dropped my prized bike and the brake lever end has snapped. Got a replacement but not sure how to fit it. Any advice ?

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  • stevie_read Jan 31, 2009

    Appreciate that. Nice to get that second opinion. Cheers

  • Anonymous Apr 01, 2014

    I have just bought a second hand 530 2010 exc, a dirt tricks tensioner was fitted before I picked the bike up, about 2 hrs into the first ride the bike stalled and there was no compression, just air back into the air box. pulled off the rocker cover and found the chain snapped .what could cause this to happen? is it possible to fit the tensioner incorrectly? or are there other reasons?
    Regards Russell.



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Unscrew the holding screw and remove slide out lever slide new lever into position and replace holding screw

Posted on Jan 29, 2009


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How do I connect the brake cable to the handle bars on Mongooose bmx scan R60

Brake cables have a knob on the end of them, that knob fits into the brake lever. A great web site for more information is "". To install the cable ends, brakes must be released at the other end. The top of the cable at the brake should have a disconnect on it. That frees up the cable, so iut can be connected.

Oct 29, 2014 | Cycling



A bugaboo brake fault can be caused by any one of the three parts that make up the brake system.

1/ The cable and cable adjustment screw.
2/ The brake lever assembly.
3/ The brake shoe assembly.

I've listed the three parts in the order of most likely to cause your brake problem. First I'll give a quick over view of how the brake should work then we'll look at the 3 parts in more detail.

Lifting the brake lever up pulls up on the brake cable, a ratchet in the lever keeps any tension until you press the release button in the centre of the lever. The cable pulls up on a toothed brake shoe and via a connecting axle a matching brake shoe on the other side, these brake shoes engage a set of matching teeth on the inside rims of the rear wheels thus locking the wheels. A spring on the cable side brake shoe disengages the brake shoes when the release button disengages the ratchet in the brake lever. This is a simple system with most parts in plain view so you can see the operation of all parts except the ratchet inside the lever.

1/ The brake cable is the most likely cause of most brake problems. Like all cables they can stretch, stick and snap. If the brake lever seems to work OK but the breaks don't hold very well try adjusting the cable tension by winding out the cable adjustment screw at the bottom of the cable thus taking up any slack and bringing the brake shoes up tighter into the wheel rims. A sticky or broken cable should be obvious by observing the brake action as you pull and release the brake lever. Run some sewing machine or 3 in 1 oil down the inner cable wire if it's sticky. If broken you can make a new cable yourself. You will need a mountain bike cable a solder less nipple and 75 cm of outer cable if yours is damaged. My local bike shop sells these parts for $10.50 they have to order in the nipples. You can reuse the cable adjuster my local bike shop can get them for a $1 each!macnutz_32.jpg

The Bugaboo has an odd double nipple design. Your replacement cable will only have one end the same as the Bugaboo. The other end will be either bare or have the pear style nipple. This you would cut off. Using the old cable as your guide, you cut the new outer cable to 75 cm and fit the ferrules supplied with the kit. The matching nipple will be the top (lever) end of the cable, reuse the old adjuster and slip it on to the bottom end followed by the solder less nipple. Set the nipple 89 cm from its opposite. Depending on the cable and nipple you buy you may need to drill the plastic parts out to ease the fit I also cut the screw head off to get a better finish some nipples come with internal grub screws.
If this sounds to complicated just print this out and give it to your local bike shop. Here's one I made all ready to go!
2/ The brake lever assembly is made up of the lever, a release button, a small compression spring and the outer bracket that holds it all on the handle. The bracket also holds the left handle release button. The most common problem is the ratchet fails to hold and this is a safety issue as it can fail quite suddenly!
Before reading any further have you ever lubricated you brake lever? If not do so I have quite a few brake lever faults come to me that are just sticky buttons. Use a silicone spray not WD40. Now back to real brake problems.
Either the small compression spring has broken (unlikely) the screws holding the assembly loosen (hopefully) or the teeth on the button and outer bracket have worn down (most likely). Try first to tighten the two screws, if that does not help take the two screws out. It's a simple mechanism the button sits inside the lever it can move in and out of the lever but can't turn as it has splines that lock it to the lever. A compression spring pushes the top outer edge of the button against the inner side of the bracket; they both have serrated teeth that lock them together. The raised centre of the button protrudes though the bracket. Pushing on the center of the button disengages the interlocking teeth of the ratchet. The compression spring can be found in most hardware stores, worn ratchet teeth can be reshaped with a rotary modeling tool like the Demel.

3/ If the Brake shoes are the problem it will be obvious,broken expansion springs are easily replaced, stripped threads on the cable adjuster can be sorted at your local bike shop and broken parts either repaired by a plastic welder / bumper repair shop or replaced with parts from a salvaged frame.
The most common problem is one shoe engaging before the other (usually the one opposite the brake lever) this is caused by the aluminum connecting shaft getting a slight twist in it. Remove the wheels, take the screw out of the connecting shaft of the shoe that engages first. Lever the shoe out of the aluminum shaft with a large screw driver. Chisel the alignment splines off. refit shoe but don't put the screw in yet. Refit wheels, now put the brake on and check that both wheels now lock up. While brake is still on fit screw back drilling a new hole if necessary, Release brake and adjust brake cable so break shoes just clear the wheel rims, Check brake operation if you find you cant get the lever to a suitable lock position back the cable off a bit more and try again,

on Jan 14, 2011 | Bugaboo Cameleon Jogger

2 Answers

How do i fit a clutch cable to a honda cbr 125?

The clutch cable is fitted to the lever and the clutch arm on the top of the crank case beside the oil cap. Remove old cable (remove side fairing if you need to for access to cable end) slacken the new cable adjusters as much as possible fit to the clucth arm on the engine and fit to its seat route the cable the same as the old one up to the clutch lever, fit the cable end to the lever, hold the cable sleve tight pull the lever to strech the cable and drop into the lever seat, adjust the cable for 2mm of free play at the lever before the cable is pulled

Mar 31, 2012 | 2004 Honda CBR 125 R

1 Answer

I have snapped off the front brake lever (by gently dropping bike in drive). Is it possible to easily replace it yourself or is this a job for a mechanic? If it's possible to do yourself, is there a...

It is a do-it-yourself thing. Assuming the mounting was not damaged, turn the brake adjuster lock wheel all the way outward then turn the adjuster all the way inward. Line up the cut-out in the lock wheel, the adjuster stem and the mount. This should give enough slack in the cable to allow you to pull on the outer cable and remove it from the end of the adjuster. If not, turn the adjuster ( on the front wheel ) inward to gain even more slack in the cable. Now remove the bolt holding the remaining piece of the lever in the mount and remove the cable from the broken piece. Hook the cable end into the new brake lever then install the lever in the mount using the mounting bolt. Pull on the outer cable and run the inner cable through the cut-out in the adjuster and then insert the end of the outer cable into the end of the adjuster. Now just reset the adjusters for good braking. Below are some generic photos. Please rate my answer. Thanks! tombones49_93.gif

Apr 22, 2011 | Honda CBF 600 ABS Motorcycles

1 Answer

My brakes leak fluid pretty sure at the brake lever end.They're about 5 yrs old but hardly used.Is there a servicing kit i can buy o rings and so on?

I will assume you have the hydraulic brakes and that is the fluid you are referring too.

If you have never done any hydraulic maintenance you will need a number of parts and tools to fix a leak, especially at the lever. The best solution would be too drop the bike off with your local mechanic/ bike shop and have them properly fix the system. After 5 years your lines and seals are most likely cracking and you need to replace the housing and seals at minimum + rebleed the brakes with the proper oil. Either way to tell you exactly what parts you need someone needs to see the bike. Take it into the shop as suggested already so they can at least tell you which seal kit and which bleed kit you need as well as the proper oil. you will need to buy all this from the shop anyway, ask them the cost difference between buying the parts and kits to do yourself and them doing the work for you.

Apr 16, 2011 | Shimano Xtr Mountain Bike Dual Control...

1 Answer

How to fit front master cylinder repair kit on a honda cbx 550 motorcycle. cylinder /lever already removed from bike.

Just remove the lever, gently pull rubber boot out of the body, take a snap ring pliers,and remove the circlip, and pull the piston out of the body. Use the piston as a reference to install the seals correctly on the new piston. Be sure to take out the screw in the reservoir, remove the reservoir, and clean the fluid return pin hole ( Must Be Clear) , next to the large fluid feeder hole. Also using a dowel covered with a lint free cloth gently wipe out the piston sleeve being careful not to scratch the walls ( Do Not Hone The Master Cylinder or it will be ruined). Coat parts with brake fluid before reassembly in reverse order. Cover bike with plastic and put some old rags under master cylinder. Before tightening brake hose bolt, fill the master cylinder with dot 3/4 brake fluid and pump the lever until the master cylinder is pushing fluid out the end where bolt and hose are loosely connected, now tighten bolt holding the brake line on. This will aid greatly in bleeding the system.

Jul 07, 2010 | 1985 Honda CBX

1 Answer

Brake pad replacement

you should not need any special screws, a spanner or socket to remove the brake calliper. Then a large flat screwdriver, to prize open the gap between the old pads, as they are worn down and you will need to do this so the new ones fit in. The only one precaution to remember, is never suqeeze the front brake lever while you have the caliper off the bike, this could cause the caliper piston to fall right out. After you replace the pads, and put the calliper back on the bike, you will need to pump the brake lever a few times before the brakes feel right. you should not have to bleed the brakes after that job

May 17, 2010 | 2000 Buell M2 Cyclone

1 Answer

SR125 Clutch lever awkward for a small hand to operate.

if you change the leaver to a flater one you may fine that the cluch dont fully disengage and as its made of cheep aluminium it may not bend easly without braking unless you get it hot the only thing i can think of is let the cluch cable off a bit it will have to much slack on it but the leaver will come in a bit you could still pack out the slack on the handel bars if there is no ajuster on the cable you will need to cut away a bit of the outer cable to give you the slack,,
but if this dont work it will mean you need a new cable or fit in an ajuster

Jan 21, 2010 | 2004 Triumph Tiger

1 Answer

My parking brake cable snapped when I released it . Is it easy to replace or do I need to take it to the dealer ?

I have a 2002 tahoe and the e-brake cable snapped as well. I am NOT good at fixing cars and I did it so I am sure you can too. First thing you will need to do is release the brake. Just look underneath (way to the left against the e-brake pedal and you will likely see the lever that releases the pedal) carefully press up on this lever and release the brake. Next, make sure the old metal cable is completely removed. There is a small hole on the lever you just pushed that the end of the cable goes in as well as a hole on the hand release. Cut the cable off if necessary to remove.
Now, purchase the new assembly (comes with the hand release and new cable and about $40 at a Chevy Dealer - probably a lot less at one of the online retailers like US auto parts). Unscrew the old hand lever and remove. Also remove the cable housing underneath (needle nose pliers to pinch the fitting and remove. Next, take the new assembly and run the housing and the end of the cable through the fitting next to the pedal as it was before. Now you need to carefully (this is the trickiest part) fish the cable through the hole. Use a long screwdriver or hammer to push the lever up closer to the cable to be able to fish the cable end through the hole. (Be patient as this part is a little tricky - might need the needle nose pliers to slightly bend the cable and it will eventually go through the hole.. Now just reconnect the screw holding the hand release and you are done.

Mar 14, 2009 | 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe

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