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Hi, Clyde the brake pedal bolt is usually a threaded shoulder bolt and the threaded part left in the frame or support bracket needs to be extracted and if it's rusted your better off taking it to a shop they have special tools for such things for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your problem. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. Right foot peg brake pedal bracket bolts sheared off Harley Davidson Forums Thread Brake pedal snapped bolt Brake Pedal Lever Removal Help Rear Brake Lever Snapped
Hi there.im guessing your still battling with a rear brake caliper..1st un bolt and take the capliper off the disc ..2nd.fill the resevior up with fluid.leave the cap off the filler pot..3rd pump the rear brake pedal a couple times till u see the pistons in the caliper move..place a bit of wood in between the brake pads to stop the pistons popping out..pump the lever again a few times..if the caliper is to tight to put back on the disc..(not recommended) but prize the pistons appart with a spanner or flat screw driver..place the caliper bk on.top up fluid .put the filler cap bk on...to proper bleed it.take a 8 or 10 mill spanner.place on the caliper bleed nipple..place a rubber tube to the nipple.and drop the end into a jam jar with a little bit of fluid in .dip the end of the rubber tube into the fluid. .push down on the brake lever.and hold it down..whilst holding down the lever.undo the bleed nipple.u should see air bubbles come out in the jar of fluid..tighten the nipple back up.and release the lever..repeat the process till all theair bubbles have gone..fill up the filler pot.
The clutch cable is fitted to the lever and the clutch arm on the top of the crank case beside the oil cap. Remove old cable (remove side fairing if you need to for access to cable end) slacken the new cable adjusters as much as possible fit to the clucth arm on the engine and fit to its seat route the cable the same as the old one up to the clutch lever, fit the cable end to the lever, hold the cable sleve tight pull the lever to strech the cable and drop into the lever seat, adjust the cable for 2mm of free play at the lever before the cable is pulled
It is a do-it-yourself thing. Assuming the mounting was not damaged, turn the brake adjuster lock wheel all the way outward then turn the adjuster all the way inward. Line up the cut-out in the lock wheel, the adjuster stem and the mount. This should give enough slack in the cable to allow you to pull on the outer cable and remove it from the end of the adjuster. If not, turn the adjuster ( on the front wheel ) inward to gain even more slack in the cable. Now remove the bolt holding the remaining piece of the lever in the mount and remove the cable from the broken piece. Hook the cable end into the new brake lever then install the lever in the mount using the mounting bolt. Pull on the outer cable and run the inner cable through the cut-out in the adjuster and then insert the end of the outer cable into the end of the adjuster. Now just reset the adjusters for good braking. Below are some generic photos. Please rate my answer. Thanks!
Just remove the lever, gently pull rubber boot out of the body, take a snap ring pliers,and remove the circlip, and pull the piston out of the body. Use the piston as a reference to install the seals correctly on the new piston. Be sure to take out the screw in the reservoir, remove the reservoir, and clean the fluid return pin hole ( Must Be Clear) , next to the large fluid feeder hole. Also using a dowel covered with a lint free cloth gently wipe out the piston sleeve being careful not to scratch the walls ( Do Not Hone The Master Cylinder or it will be ruined). Coat parts with brake fluid before reassembly in reverse order. Cover bike with plastic and put some old rags under master cylinder. Before tightening brake hose bolt, fill the master cylinder with dot 3/4 brake fluid and pump the lever until the master cylinder is pushing fluid out the end where bolt and hose are loosely connected, now tighten bolt holding the brake line on. This will aid greatly in bleeding the system.
The brake light is turned on and off by either of two switches on your bike. The front brake lever has a switch located in the right handlebar switch housing. When you squeeze the lever, a pad on the lever moves forward allowing the switch button to move forward making contact which in turn switches the brake light on.
The rear brake lever operates a plunger inside the rear brake master cylinder that pressurizes the rear brake and rear brake hose and line. The rear brake line has a tee fitting in it along it's run with a pressure switch in the tee. Once the pressure on the line gets high enough, the switch turns on the brake light.
If your rear brake light switch is not working, check to make sure the wires are on the prongs of the switch. If they are, replace the switch. It simply screws out and a new one screws in. Most of the time you don't have to bleed the brakes as long as you don't move the rear brake pedal with the switch out. Check the rear brake for proper operation prior to riding the bike.
you should not need any special screws, a spanner or socket to remove the brake calliper. Then a large flat screwdriver, to prize open the gap between the old pads, as they are worn down and you will need to do this so the new ones fit in. The only one precaution to remember, is never suqeeze the front brake lever while you have the caliper off the bike, this could cause the caliper piston to fall right out. After you replace the pads, and put the calliper back on the bike, you will need to pump the brake lever a few times before the brakes feel right. you should not have to bleed the brakes after that job
if you change the leaver to a flater one you may fine that the cluch dont fully disengage and as its made of cheep aluminium it may not bend easly without braking unless you get it hot the only thing i can think of is let the cluch cable off a bit it will have to much slack on it but the leaver will come in a bit you could still pack out the slack on the handel bars if there is no ajuster on the cable you will need to cut away a bit of the outer cable to give you the slack,,
but if this dont work it will mean you need a new cable or fit in an ajuster
Yes it does have either a "sir-clip" or a "C-clip" that holds the shaft in place. You mentioned the bike was dropped, this is very typical when that happens. If the lever is part of a linkage system you will find a groove on the shaft that that is moving where the clip belongs. If it is a sir-clip there is a good chance it is just popped off the groove and all you may have to do is slip it back on by pushing it with a screw driver, if the clip is gone you may be able to measure the shaft diameter and go to the local automotive parts house and get a standard snap ring that will fit your shaft.