Question about 2003 ATK 605

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Timing belt adjustment

I just put on a new clutch plates and timing belt. Bike will not start. I'm assuming I screwed up the timing. How do you realign the belt?

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  • Brian Jan 29, 2009

    Motor did rotate. I've got realignment procedure from factory tech. Valves could be bent. I'll know in a couple of hours.

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Recheck timing marks to align up..
I hope you did not rotate motor with timing belt removed or while working on clutch !!
If you did you need to take it in to a bike shop to get reset or you could bend valves or lots of other things>>

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

  • John Kendall
    John Kendall Jan 29, 2009

    another thing is the points should be opening just prior to TDC top dead center on the compression stroke

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When I start up my bike I pull in the clutch lever put it into gear the bike shuts off and lunges forward.


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I start the bike in neutral with the clutch pulled in, then I shift into first and it will kill ...bike, if you put the bike in gear and try to roll it (even with the clutch lever pulled ...Started it back up, gave it enough throttle to keep it from stalling, put it in 1st, ... I continue to change the oil in my clutch but almost immediately it turns white.

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My 99 Roadstar has the habit of always shutting off when I knock it into first ... pull in the clutch and put it in first gear the bike lunges forward and shuts off. ... Hold thefront brake ALWAYS when shifting a cold bike into first. ... What I do on cold starts is to select first gear with the motor off, pull the clutch in and ...

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1 Answer

How to set timing , points 1340 cc evolution harley motor


Hi Mason, your going to need the bike in 4th or 5th gear and the rear wheel off the ground a little so you can manually turn the engine over with the spark plugs out if you don't have a kick starter. On the left side of the engine cases at top center you will find a plug that will give you access to the timing marks on the flywheel. Find the straight up and down line, this is the full advance timing mark. Spray some Brake Kleen on the mark to remove oil film and with some bright touch up paint cover the mark and surounding area in the hole, it makes it easier to find it with a timing light. Remove the mechanical advance mechanism behind the points held in place by the center bolt and inspect the roll pins for severe wear, inspect the advance weights, roll pins and springs for excessive wear and slop, weights should move freely in and out and not wobble. If advance mechanism apears worn out replace it, as it will severely affect your timing. Reinstall advance mechanism making sure locating pin on the back fits into the notch on the cam shaft. Tighten the center bolt to 80-100 inch lbs. Install timing plate with new points and condenser and stake it lightly in 3 places with an ice pick or sharp center punch. Install timing plate lock down screws untill they are one turn away from tight. Rotate engine untill rubbing block on points is on the big lobe of breaker cam. Adjust points to .018" with a flat blade feeler guage, or the thickness of a match book cover if you ever break down on the side of the road. Rotate engine to small lobe and check gap should be close to .018" plus or minus .002" if not take a flat punch and light hammer and tap the center bolt gently in the direction you want the points to move. Rotate the engine back to the large lobe and check gap, adjust accordingly. You may have to do this several times. You want both point gaps as even as possible. All this attention to detail will guarantee easy starting and smooth idle. With timing mark dead center in timing hole move timing plate with flat blade screw driver in timing plate adjuster slots untill the rubbing block on points just starts to open points on the large lobe of breaker cam. You can do this when your smallest feeler gauge starts to slide out of points or use a test light with the ignition switch on. Install your new Harley Davidson 3-4 spark plugs gapped at .030" with a little Anti-Sieze on the threads and tighten to 20 ft lbs. Attach new spark plug wires, replace timing plug half way, put bike back into nuetral and lower rear tire back to ground. Cover the lens of timing light with clear cellophane and a rubber band and connect to battery and front cylinder spark plug wire. This next part is best done with two people, start engine and check timing light for function. Before you remove timing plug position your head away from timing hole, be prepared for mild to heavy oil and air to come blowing out of timing hole, this is normal. You can purchase a clear plastic timing plug that screws into timing hole at your local dealer if you like. Run engine at 2,000 RPM and remove timing plug. Timing light should pick up your painted timing mark. If you don't see painted section have your assistant move the timing plate a little either clockwise or counter clockwise until paint mark comes into view. You want the straight line timing mark dead center in hole. If you see a small dot at bottom of hole that is the rear cylinder advance timing mark. They may or may not overlap, if they do your timing is dead nuts perfect. If they do not don't worry about it. Tighten timing plate screws and your good to go. Thus ends my novel on war and Harleys, there is a video below that may assist you in your fun with timing your bike. Good luck
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Jun 08, 2015 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

My 68 shovelhead backfires through carb when trying to start


Hi Anonymous, your going to need the bike in 4th gear and the rear wheel off the ground a little so you can manually turn the engine over with the spark plugs out if you don't have a kick starter. On the left side of the engine cases at top center you will find a plug that will give you access to the timing marks on the flywheel. Find the straight up and down line, this is the full advance timing mark. Spray some Brake Kleen on the mark to remove oil film and with some bright touch up paint cover the mark and surounding area in the hole, it makes it easier to find it with a timing light. Remove the mechanical advance mechanism behind the points held in place by the center bolt and inspect the roll pins for severe wear, inspect the advance weights, roll pins and springs for excessive wear and slop, weights should move freely in and out and not wobble. If advance mechanism apears worn out replace it, as it will severely affect your timing. Reinstall advance mechanism making sure locating pin on the back fits into the notch on the cam shaft. Tighten the center bolt to 80-100 inch lbs. Install timing plate with new points and condenser and stake it lightly in 3 places with an ice pick or sharp center punch. Install timing plate lock down screws untill they are one turn away from tight. Rotate engine untill rubbing block on points is on the big lobe of breaker cam. Adjust points to .018" with a flat blade feeler guage, or the thickness of a match book cover if you ever break down on the side of the road. Rotate engine to small lobe and check gap should be close to .018" plus or minus .002" if not take a flat punch and light hammer and tap the center bolt gently in the direction you want the points to move. Rotate the engine back to the large lobe and check gap, adjust accordingly. You may have to do this several times. You want both point gaps as even as possible. All this attention to detail will guarantee easy starting and smooth idle. With timing mark dead center in timing hole move timing plate with flat blade screw driver in timing plate adjuster slots untill the rubbing block on points just starts to open points on the large lobe of breaker cam. You can do this when your smallest feeler gauge starts to slide out of points or use a test light with the ignition switch on. Install your new Harley Davidson 3-4 spark plugs gapped at .030" with a little Anti-Sieze on the threads and tighten to 20 ft lbs. Attach new spark plug wires, replace timing plug half way, put bike back into nuetral and lower rear tire back to ground. Cover the lens of timing light with clear cellophane and a rubber band and connect to battery and front cylinder spark plug wire. This next part is best done with two people, start engine and check timing light for function. Before you remove timing plug position your head away from timing hole, be prepared for mild to heavy oil and air to come blowing out of timing hole, this is normal. You can purchase a clear plastic timing plug that screws into timing hole at your local dealer if you like. Run engine at 2,000 RPM and remove timing plug. Timing light should pick up your painted timing mark. If you don't see painted section have your assistant move the timing plate a little either clockwise or counter clockwise until paint mark comes into view. You want the straight line timing mark dead center in hole. If you see a small dot at bottom of hole that is the rear cylinder advance timing mark. They may or may not overlap, if they do your timing is dead nuts perfect. If they do not don't worry about it. Tighten timing plate screws and your good to go. Thus ends my novel on war and Harleys, there is a video below that may assist you in your fun with timing your bike. Good luck

Dec 26, 2012 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

Set timin 74 shovel head


Hi Thomas, your going to need the bike in 4th gear and the rear wheel off the ground a little so you can manually turn the engine over with the spark plugs out if you don't have a kick starter. On the left side of the engine cases at top center you will find a plug that will give you access to the timing marks on the flywheel. Find the straight up and down line, this is the full advance timing mark. Spray some Brake Kleen on the mark to remove oil film and with some bright touch up paint cover the mark and surounding area in the hole, it makes it easier to find it with a timing light. Remove the mechanical advance mechanism behind the points held in place by the center bolt and inspect the roll pins for severe wear, inspect the advance weights, roll pins and springs for excessive wear and slop, weights should move freely in and out and not wobble. If advance mechanism apears worn out replace it, as it will severely affect your timing. Reinstall advance mechanism making sure locating pin on the back fits into the notch on the cam shaft. Tighten the center bolt to 80-100 inch lbs. Install timing plate with new points and condenser and stake it lightly in 3 places with an ice pick or sharp center punch. Install timing plate lock down screws untill they are one turn away from tight. Rotate engine untill rubbing block on points is on the big lobe of breaker cam. Adjust points to .018" with a flat blade feeler guage, or the thickness of a match book cover if you ever break down on the side of the road. Rotate engine to small lobe and check gap should be close to .018" plus or minus .002" if not take a flat punch and light hammer and tap the center bolt gently in the direction you want the points to move. Rotate the engine back to the large lobe and check gap, adjust accordingly. You may have to do this several times. You want both point gaps as even as possible. All this attention to detail will guarantee easy starting and smooth idle. With timing mark dead center in timing hole move timing plate with flat blade screw driver in timing plate adjuster slots untill the rubbing block on points just starts to open points on the large lobe of breaker cam. You can do this when your smallest feeler gauge starts to slide out of points or use a test light with the ignition switch on. Install your new Harley Davidson 3-4 spark plugs gapped at .030" with a little Anti-Sieze on the threads and tighten to 20 ft lbs. Attach new spark plug wires, replace timing plug half way, put bike back into nuetral and lower rear tire back to ground. Cover the lens of timing light with clear cellophane and a rubber band and connect to battery and front cylinder spark plug wire. This next part is best done with two people, start engine and check timing light for function. Before you remove timing plug position your head away from timing hole, be prepared for mild to heavy oil and air to come blowing out of timing hole, this is normal. You can purchase a clear plastic timing plug that screws into timing hole at your local dealer if you like. Run engine at 2,000 RPM and remove timing plug. Timing light should pick up your painted timing mark. If you don't see painted section have your assistant move the timing plate a little either clockwise or counter clockwise until paint mark comes into view. You want the straight line timing mark dead center in hole. If you see a small dot at bottom of hole that is the rear cylinder advance timing mark. They may or may not overlap, if they do your timing is dead nuts perfect. If they do not don't worry about it. Tighten timing plate screws and your good to go. Thus ends my novel on war and Harleys, there is a video below that may assist you in your fun with timing your bike. Good luck

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1 Answer

Clutch not engaging


could be a few different things,But always start with the small( inexpensive )first and work your way up...#1 check your clutch cable adjustment to be sure its engaging and disengaging properly(clutch cables stretch over time and need replaced or adjusted)...but if you have never done any clutch work to the bike(and you ride it like i do mine) #2. it probably needs new clutch plates and #3 maybe clutch basket from your description of the problem. the clutch plate fibers wear down over time(they are like brake pads and wear out).and the plates wear groves in the clutch basket and interfear with the plate movement...hopefully its just your cable..hope this helps..

Jul 30, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

2 Answers

Accidently moved timing base plate whil trying to adjust points now bike refuses to statr how do I reset without adjusting the timing by wat of the timing chain


moving the base plate is how you adjust points. sometimes there is marks/scratches where the screws were tightend onto the base plate. try to line them up with the screw head.

Dec 22, 2009 | 1975 kawasaki Z1B

1 Answer

Hello I have a 2001 harley road king . When sitting still and trying to put in 1st gear . I am getting a slight grinding sound . And the bike is hard to go in gear . Do you have a solution or do i need to...


A slight grinding noise is common when sitting idling with the clutch out and then trying to put the transmission is first gear, especially when the transmission is cold. You can try holding the clutch in for a short while and then try putting it into gear to see if that stops it. I'm not sure adjusting the clutch is going to help much. It's a matter of stuff spinning and other stuff not spinning in the transmission.

If you want to adjust the clutch, find the "bellows" type cover that covers the adjuster in the middle of the cable. Work this cover up or down and uncover the cable adjuster. Break the lock nut loose and adjust the adjuster inward making the cable shorter. Adjust it all the way in.

Remove the derby cover. You may want to stand the bike up fairly straight up to do this to make sure you don't have any oil running out of the primary. With the derby cover off, you'll see the clutch pressure plate. In the middle of the plate, you'll see a screw with a lock nut on it. Make sure the bike is in neutral. Break the locknut loose. The engine may try to turn a bit when you try to break the nut loose. Turn the screw inward until you feel a resistance. I usually do this then back the screw back out a bit and then back in several times to make sure I'm at the point of resistance, no further. You don't want to start releasing the clutch with the screw. Once you've turned the screw inward until you feel the resistance, back it back out 1/2 to 1 turn. Lock the lock nut back down and reinstall the derby cover.

Then, adjust the cable adjuster out until you have about an 1/8 inch of free travel at your clutch lever pivot. I usually use a nickel between the clutch lever and the lever stancion.

Nov 16, 2009 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King...

1 Answer

Bike wont go into gear, just had a new clutch put on and the level was low, bike had been sitting for 4 months without being ridden. What could be the causes? it's a 1990 Ultra Classic with Big Bore Kit


With bike not running, rock the bike backwards and forwards and shift through all the gears. If it shifts all the way to fifth gear and back down, then the problem is not in the transmission. If you can't shift the transmission into any gear with the bike not running, just rocking it backwards and forwards, then you've got a problem with the transmission or the shift lever mechanism.

If it does shift but you still can't get it into gear something is strange. I've seen a clutch that the plates were locked together from sitting up, but it still would shift into gear. Of course, when it did shift into first gear, the bike would lurch forward and kill the engine. In this case, we had to disassemble the clutch pack and free the plates up. If you've had a new clutch put in the bike, it could simply need an adjustment. But, usually a new clutch will have a tendency to wear in and start to slip rather than drag. When a clutch causes the bike to lurch when put into gear or become difficult to find neutral with the engine running, it's dragging. I'd check the entire clutch adjustment to start with.

Slide the rubber boot on the clutch cable up, break the lock nut loose and turn the adjuster to make the cable as short as possible. Take the derby cover off the primary to gain access to the clutch release adjuster bolt. Break the large locknut loose, adjust the center bolt inward until you feel resistance. Back the screw back out and back in until you feel resistance again several times. You want to just take the slack out of the adjustment, not start to open the clutch up. Once you've turned the bolt in and feel the resistance, back the bolt back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn. Hold the bolt in this position and lock the lock nut again. Now, adjust the clutch cable back out until you get a freeplay of about an 1/8 inch at the lever. The clutch should be adjusted well enough to release at this point. If it doesn't, the clutch plates are probably stuck.

If the clutch plates are stuck, rock the bike back and forth and shift the bike into fourth or fifth gear. Now, while holding the clutch lever in, push the bike backwards and forwards far enough to "bump" the clutch. This may break the bond between the plates and free it up. If not, you'll have to disassemble the clutch in order to free it up. Good Luck.

Nov 08, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Clutch problem or cable


I did the same upgrade with the same bike. put a 16t in front and 64t in rear, never had a problem. just more power. I did notice when the chain was to tight things werent working right. gave the chain a little slack and the bike performs great. you might want to remove the front sprocket cover and check if the end of the clutch cable is installed properly. Hope this helps!

Jan 30, 2009 | 1998 Suzuki GSX-R 750 W

1 Answer

Clutch


springs or what not or just adjust it thanks. its a 04 crf250 if that helps anybody.Adjust your cable first then go from there.,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2008 HM CRE F250XI

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