Question about 1990 Yamaha XT 600 E
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Yamaha XT600e Engine oil and filter change
Yamaha XT 600 AC Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha XT500E Owner Manual
Posted on Feb 01, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hi buddy by the oil plug will be a number for example 70c /700cm2 this will mean 700ml or you can do it by looking at the oil sight glass should come 3/4 full but make sure you add more as the oil filter will be empty so that needs filling also remember before you drain the oil run the bike for 5 mins so the oil becomes thinner and all drains also dab some oil on the new oil filter seal buddy any more info get back to me
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
SOURCE: how to change oil
simply remove the sump plug which is in the form of a bolt in the bottom of the engine you may need to remove sump guard if you bike has one fitted once drained you may want to flush it with a good quality engine flush then just refill with the correct amount which is usually stated on the clutch casing near the filler cap hope thos helps
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
SOURCE: hi, i need to know
Use only JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cooler climates. 20w-50 for warmer conditions. Any oil that says Energy conserving on the label will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Synthetic oil help your bike run cooler and shift easier.You will need 3 quarts of oil and will have some left over. How much you need to put in depends on how well you drain the old oil. There should be two drain points, one on the frame and one on the motor. You will have to pour in between 2 and 2 1/2 quarts and run the motor for 5 minutes before you can accurately check the oil level. Then top up as necessary but do not over fill it .
Posted on Oct 06, 2010
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SOURCE: will a 1989 xt 600
The front hubs have the same part number, but the rims are a little different the 1989 is 1.6 inches wide and the 1990 is 1.85 wide. The only problem may be a clearance issue with the width of the rim, other than that it will fit.
Posted on Nov 15, 2010
SOURCE: valve clearence for xt tenere
Intake 0.10 mm. and exhaust 0.15 mm.
The Clymer manual for the earlier XT600's is also relevent to your bike in many areas and covers this.
Briefly, the basic drill is when the engine has not been run for quite a few hours (IE: left overnight) :-
First time doing this, remove petrol tank for better visability / easier access
Remove spark plug making sure no dirt falls down it's hole & into engine (again, not essentiol but makes turning engine over by hand easier, I wouldn't do this if spark plug tunnel has dirt in it and air line not available to blow it out)
Remove the large round cover (that is near your left ancel when riding) & the small one just above it. Use a large socket on the nut on the end of the crank that is now exposedand rotate the engine ANTI-CLOCKWISE ( I think, best double check) and look through the small hole for timing marks on the rotor as it passes. These have varied over the years, but you should see 2 or 3 lines pass behind the hole, the last one is TDC and may have a T stamped to the left of it ( on my 88 tenere it's badly stamped and looks like another line. The other tines are for ignition timing)
Position the engine at TDC
Again making sure no dirt can fall in, remove the inspection cover that's above the carb inlet stubs and the 2 inspection covers above the exhaust headers.
You should now see 4 rocker arms, Check to se if they can all rock up and down slightly. If not, rotate the engine one ful turn and recheck.
Use feeler gauges to measure the gap between the bottom of the adjuster screw that is in the end of the rocker arm and the top of the valve that it pushes on. You are looking for a bit of drag as you slide the blade(s) through the gap, but no a lot of fource.
Remember that the required gap is different for inlet and exhaust,
If not, use a ring spanner to loosed the loc nu that secures the adjuster screw (they round off if you're not careful) and screw the adjuster up or down as required, re-tighten loc nut, find thst retightening it has changed the setting and try again !
There are tools that help here, but it can be done with a ring spanner, allen key & patience.
Small, angled feeler gauges also make it much easier but are not esential
Replace engine covers, cheching o rings are correcly located. I put medium strength loctight on the screws and lower covers, partly to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion between engine alloy and steel screws, but it's not essential.
Hope that helps
Posted on May 15, 2011
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