Question about 2002 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat Boy
Hi Anonymous, this problem is usually cause by the front brake light switch being out of alignment or the button not retracting all the way keeping your brake light on in a closed circuit, depending on your model year. 1996 and earlier models the right handlebar switch housing had to be tight up against the front brake control housing in order for the front brake light switch button to be fully compressed to stop continuity. In 1997 and later models the button was alot shorter and was more of an alignment issue in the switch housing. Rear brake light switches located in the rear brake line TEE can also fail in the closed circuit condition but extremely rare, usually they fail in an open circuit condition where the brake light is not able to activate. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck. Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
Posted on May 27, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
remove switch cover on front brake master cylinder.support assembly. check connections at brake cyl.switch,check wires were not 'pinched' by cover against handle bar
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
You should have two filaments in the reat taillight lamp, one for tail light and one for brake light. You are not confusing these filaments/functions are you?
What you seem to be saying to me is that you have a lamp that had no tail light filament (burned out) but does have a brake light filament still intact.
Remove the light and check it visually and/or with a contunity tester.
I hope this helps you ...
If I misunderstood your question, please ask me again
Posted on Oct 02, 2009
Sorry but I don't have a wiring diagram that I can send you but I may can offer a bit of help.
Your passing lamps are simply wired into a hot circuit somewhere. A lot of schematics don't show them because they are considered "add ons". They also may have a fuse inline with the "hot" wire. They have only one wire that connects them to the bike with the rest being inside the "light bar" itself. Find the wire coming out of the center of the "light bar" and trace it back to where it hooks up. Sorry but that's the best I can do on this one.
On your front brake light, there is a switch located inside your right hand switch housing where your throttle is located. It is a plunger type switch that is activated when you pull the front brake lever. A simple test of the switch is to loosen the bolts of the master cylinder and slide it towards the center of the handlebars. If the switch is good, the brake light will come on. If the switch is bad, it will not.
To get to the switch, you'll have to take the right hand switch housing apart. First, loosen the throttle cables at the adjusters and then remove the two bolts that hold the switch housing halves together. Carefully open up the switch housing. You will see the small switch in the front of the housing. You'll have to desolder the wires, replace the switch with a new one, and resolder the wires to the new switch.
Reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly. Make sure you slide the master cylinder all the way back against the switch housing or the brake light will stay on constantly. Readjust the throttle cables and check for proper operation. You don't want your throttle sticking.
Posted on Jun 15, 2010
More than likely, the problem is the rear brake pressure switch. Find the rear brake master cylinder and follow the metal line that comes out of the back of it until you come to a switch with two sets of wires connected to it. This is the pressure switch. To replace it, simply screw the old one out and screw the new one in. Do not press the foot pedal with the old switch removed. You should not even have to bleed the brake if you do it right. Have the new switch ready to screw in before you take the old one out. One out the other one right back in.
Posted on Nov 12, 2010
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