Question about 2011 Honda CBF Stunner

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2011 Honda CBF Stunner not charging

My stunner bikes battery is not charging and horn not working. I change my battery and regulator but still, the battery is not charging. please help me. regards Jithin main problem is depending on regulator and battery@

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  • MOHIT SIKKA Jul 07, 2013

    Try Checking the Wires and Connections to the battery if your Battery is OK according to you.

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  • Honda Master
  • 47,817 Answers

Hi, Jithin before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Honda cbf 125 battery not charging
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
https://haynes.com/en-gb/honda-cbf125-09-14-haynes-repair-manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CB Owners Manuals

Posted on Oct 16, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 39 Answers

SOURCE: battery wont charge

The most common problem is the 3-wire connector being burnt between the stator and regulator/rectifier. It has also been commonly reported that the regulator/rectifier and/or stator may need replacement.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: the bike wont run unless you charge the battery first

Double check your battery. It could be bad and not holding a charge... If it's good then you can move to the generator. An easy way to check the generator is to get a voltage meter and put one lead on the pos and the other lead on the neg (while the bike is running), the voltage meter should read approx 14volts. If not, then you know the generator isn't putting out enough power to charge the battery. Then check all wiring back to the stator. Hope the stator isn't bad because I remember it being pretty expensive. Good luck...

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: if you charge the battery

Unfortunately you cannot check the regulator portion of the regulator/rectifier. The common failure on these units is the stator itself, which is located in the rear of the motor and requires motor removal to replace. If you haven't done so already, check the stator connector (3 pin connector with yellow wires located near the battery). Often these leads develop resistance and get hot and melt the wires in this area. A repair kit is available from Honda with new wires and connectors. However first I would check the stator to be sure it is ok. You can check resistance between each of the yellow wires. The readings should be fairly equal and should have no continuity to ground. If you have continuity to ground, your stator is bad. You can also check AC output between yellow wires with the motor running, you should get voltage readings from about 20VAC at idle that increase to approximately 60-90VAC as the motor is revved up.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 21, 2010

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I have a splendor plus bike (2006). Some times not horn is not working. I was replaced from original horn to Roots horn. Battery, coil and plug also changed. but still some times horn not working.


On a wholly battery fed system the horn is generally more efficient and suffers fewer problems. Lots of older lightweight motorcycles and scooters and probably some of the more modern types either do not have a battery or do not have an effective charging system for the typically small battery with sufficient surplus capacity to provide current for accessories should the battery become discharged.

It is not unusual as these sort of bikes pass the first flush of youth to find the horn does not work very well particularly when the lights are switched on.

If there is a battery it should be fully charged and tested. The wiring connections from the generator, the connections to the battery, to the horn, to the horn push and the horn push contacts should all be thoroughly cleaned and in particular all the ground connections.

If the horn is in good condition and the generator is working efficiently the above maintenance should put things right. Many horns are adjustable and minor adjustments are likely to be needed throughout it's service life.

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I would disconnect the regulator so it does not charge the battery. Now... monitor the battery voltage... try starter, horn, lights, flashers... battery going down ? No fire/smoke/smells ?
Re-connect regulator and check again.
Regulator should charge battery @ 15volts MAX !!

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2011 Honda CBF Stunner wiring diagram


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $23 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2011 Honda CBF Stunner wiring diagram Google Search
Honda Motorcycle Wiring Diagrams
https://haynes.com/en-gb/honda-cbf125-09-14-haynes-repair-manual $23
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CB Owners Manuals

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1 Answer

2011 Honda CBF Stunner wiring diagram


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere $20 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2011 Honda CBF Stunner wiring diagram Google Search
Honda Motorcycle Wiring Diagrams
https://haynes.com/en-gb/honda-cbf125-09-14-haynes-repair-manual $20
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CB Owners Manuals

Jan 24, 2014 | 2011 Honda CBF Stunner

1 Answer

2011 Honda CBF Stunner test charging system


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Help diagnosing charging system
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
https://haynes.com/en-gb/honda-cbf125-09-14-haynes-repair-manual $20
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CB Owners Manuals

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Hi, Mohit for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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