This is a bit complex, my bike is oversea, im in australia, and the local mechanic that trying to fix the bike and me haven't done this before, The information ive gathered is that they have taken the stato out, the problem is trying to get the component out so that the seal can be replace, they said it look they need some sort of a pulley to pull it out, Im in australia and i can buy the type any type of pulley and the seal here, the question is, is there a specific pulley and what is the method to replace a seal that stop the engine oil sipping into the electrical stato component.
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The problem is common in 2 stroke watercooled bikes ,what happens is the head gasket leaks and the leaking burnt gases pass the gasket and sneak into the water jacket which highly compresses the cooling system and blows the water past the water pump seals and into the gearbox,mixing with the oil and making a vile mayonnaise mixture,make sure when you fitted the seals you fitted them the right way around the main sealing lips should both face their fluid they are keeping out and the impeller shaft should be free from and scoring or damage where the seals touch it.p.s im a fully qualified motorcycle mechanic with over 20 years experience so im not just guessing at an answer
Hi Anonymous, P0118 refers to engine temp sensor voltage open/high EFI. I'm sorry that you are still having problems after throwing money at. I don't know if you are doing the work yourself or taking it somewhere. The onboard computer system is very complex and extremely difficult to understand if you are not a throughly trained technician with the proper diagnostic tools. That being said I would take it to your local dealer and let them fix it. Good luck
Your bike is one of the Italian built Aermacchi / Harley Davidson machines. They were built in Harley's factory located in Varesse, Italy and imported into the United States between the years of 1961 and 1978. The carb needs to be completely disassembled and soaked in a professional grade carburetor cleaner and all passageways need to be checked to make sure they are open. Also check the jets. That little 125 has a very small slow speed jet and it gets plugged up very easily if trash gets into the carb or the bike is allowed to sit and the fuel evaporates in the carb. Remember, the bike is a two-cycle engine and you must keep the oil tank filled with two cycle engine oil made for a bike with the oil injection pump. While you have the jets out of the carb, check the jet size using a set of small drill bits. Do not enlarge the jet. Use the back end of the drill bit as a Go-NoGo type gauge. The jets have a number on them that is a decimal metric size. For instance, if the jet has a 25 on it, this means the hole in the jet is 0.25mm. If the number is 125, this means 1.25mm. Convert to inches by mulitplying by 0.0394. .25 X 0.0394 = 0.00985 inch. Rounded off is 0.010" or ten thousandths of an inch. Use this size drill bit to check the jet size. Owners back then were notorious for "drilling out the jets" in an effort to get more speed out of their bikes. They had a nasty habit of drilling them too big and then the bike quit running. The other problem could be the crank seals on the crank. If the seals go bad, the bike will **** air into the bottom end and will not idle. Usually, they are very difficult to get started as well. You said your's started fairly easily, maybe you got lucky. Usually when a bike sits as long as yours, the crank rusts right next to the seals and when someone tries to start the bike, the rust tears the seals up. Go here to learn more about your bike. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Aermacchi/ Most Harley mechanics don't know anything about these little bikes, only us old guys that were around then. And, most of them absolutely hated the little bikes because they were foreign built and metric sized. If you need parts, try MotoItalia in California. http://www.motomacchi.com/
The engine needs a rebuild , cant say how much will need repair until it is dis assembled. It may need rings and valve seals. but may also need oversize piston and rebore, if the existing ones are out of spec or scored and damaged. It would be wise to also fit a cam chain while it is apart. Some of the early XRs had problems with cracking heads and there are some speciallist companies like Ballards(australia) that may help for advice and the bits you may need. They will sell 280cc kits and do any head repair work, including extra cooling fins welded to the head to turn it back into a good reliable bike. If your in another country i'm sure there will be local specialists.
Hi, Castle Hill Motorcycles seems to be the main bike shop in your area, lot of dealers go overboard on repair work, grab your local phone book and even your local accessories store usually will know someone who repairs bikes in your area without charging and arm and a leg, shop around, what is the problem with the bike, maybe you can fix it yourself!!!
Use a fresh 3M green scrub pad on the forks. Next get a can of clear spray enamel and give the forks multiple light dustings. The light dustings prevent any possibility of runs in the paint. The coats will "seal up" the bad spots and also prevent the problem in the future. Please rate my answer. Thanks!
hello I am Vortash .. I would say your problem is either blocked idler jets or incorrect fuel mixture ( Air to fuel not correct ) take the bike to your local garage to use their air line unless you have a compressor of your own remove the fuel feed tank side and blow it through with the airline if this don't cure it you will probably need to have the carbs tuned to manufacturesr spec's , If you are more mechanicaly minded strip the idler jets out pass a fine strip of wire through them and replace .You can also get this problem if you have an air leak on the maniflod or the carb bowl etc hope this helps regards Vortash
Most used 400s are ridden hard eitheras a starter bike or forced to max out playing catchup with biggerbikes. But unless abused, they tend to have longer usable life than thebigger ones. For a VFR400 (NC24), areas that would need your attention/check would be:
was it imported to Australia by Honda or is it a gray bike? If it is a gray bike, then it would most likely be a Japanese domestic market/model that has a 180 km/h (110 mph) restriction;
rear suspension - the NC24 was one of the first production bikes with Pro-Arm single-sided swingarm;
listen closely to the "whine" sound from the engine. It should sound healthy not raspy. This is specially true for VFRs because the camshaft are driven by straight cut gears. This model does not use a timing chain or timing belt.
Common areas to check:
condition/level of the engine oil. An oil change would do no harm;
brake pads (front & rear);
carbs and tank condition, A rebuilt/clean is a wise action;
sparkplug check/replacement. Note the color/condition of the ends of the plugs;
electrical system check which includes battery/terminals, major connectors (high amperage), regulator, lights, switches;
chain and sprocket. If adjusted against the stops, might be time for a replacement of the set;
fork oil seal.
Even if there are somethingsyou feel like needing work, the general judge wold be how you likeriding the bike. Your body, sense of balance and riding style woulddictate which if ever would need priority work/replacement/checkingover.
Pls post back result(s). Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.