Question about 2004 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre

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2004 shadow 1100 just quit running

Running down road spitnsputtered like i was out of gas before i could put on res it died wont start now turns over all electrical works all fuses are good getting fire and gas now when trying to start turns over but sounds like something came apart on right side in engine

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  • Contributor
  • 5 Answers

Check your timing. If the timing is off or jumps around you may have a broken stator plate or just loose cd pick up. Check your timing per the maintenace manual. If it is off try to adjust but if it is jumping around you will have to pull the flywheel and check the stator and CD trigger for security.

Posted on Jan 22, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: motorcycle dies while riding,like gas is cut off

Most likely your high speed needle valve seat has dirt in it. Try removeing the bowl and cleaning the Main Jet.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

DickCanFixIt
  • 948 Answers

SOURCE: Honda Shadow 600 c won't start in gear after battery change

The kickstand switch is either bad or bent out of position. See if you can activate the switch manually. Does the bike run now? If so, the switch is bent out of position. If it still won't run, jumper the wires together until you can replace the switch.

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

DoubleClutch
  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: I have a '94 Shadow 600. Engine starts fine.

BEFORE YOU START
You are haveing carb problems.
Make sure that dirty carbs are actually your problem. Lots of things can make a bike run poorly or not start. Weak battery, corroded electrics, old spark plugs, bad timing, low compression, mis-adjusted valves, dirty air filter, and plugged exhausts can all cause poor running. I'll write an article eventually on how to diagnose poor running conditions shortly, but for now - lets just deal with the carbs.

There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also have effects on performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.

Carb Cleaning 101
Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o’rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve’s seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve’s spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve’s tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.

Choke Plungers: It is common for Mikuni slide carburetors to have indented or hardened choke plunger pads. If the pads are worn, indented or hardened with age, then the idle of your bike will vary wildly as the pads no longer seal well.

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or verneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It’s a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).

Posted on Nov 25, 2009

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1 Answer

Does the gas need turned off if your not riding


no the petcock is vacuum operated and shuts off fuel if the engine is not running (while petcock is in RES or RUN positions

Jul 10, 2014 | 1999 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow Spirit

1 Answer

2004 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre starts, but dies when throttle is opened


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
2. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
3. Air fuel mixture adjustment too lean.
4. Pilot/slow fuel jet clogged.
5. Faulty accelerator pump.
6. Float level too low.
7. Float bowl contaminated old fuel, water, dirt, rust, etc.
8. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
9. Fuel line to carburetor kinked or pinched.
10. Fuel filter clogged.
11. Intake manifold leak.
12. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
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14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
15. Multi carburetors not in sync.
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For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Starts choke but dies with little throttle
http://www.cyclechaos.com/4um/f66/2007-shadow-sabre-vt-1100c2-starts-but-wont-stay-running-41995
Honda shadow vt1100 Owners Workshop Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
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Jun 28, 2014 | 2004 Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre

2 Answers

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follow the cable from the start to finish it might have been bent or damaged. then have a look at the carbs they might have been damaged in the two accidents if the mix is wrong or they are letting in air

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2004 Honda, 1100 Shadow Spirit, starts fine, ideals fine, but when I put it in gear it dies


Hi, David_rebeka and the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty wiring to any safety switch.
2. Safety switches loose at the mounting point.
3. Faulty kickstand safety switch.
4. Failed kickstand safety switch circuit diode.
5. Stretched side stand spring.
6. Side stand not coming up far enough to disengage switch.
7. Faulty clutch lever safety switch.
8. Faulty neutral safety switch.
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10. Clutch plates sticking, forward lurch
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Put the bike in gear and engines dies
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1 Answer

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yes about the stator have you checked the batt power with the bike running, charge the batt get the bike running see what your meter reads should be 13v aprox. trun bike off leave meter on batt and see if it starts counting down if so the batt could be pooched and the fuel issue could just be junk plugged up the filter around the petcock

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1 Answer

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Try putting some Sea Foam additive in the gas . Let it idle for a few minuets, then go for a nice long ride.
Sea Foam can be found at your NAPA dealer or Wal-Mart. Be careful not to add to much. Follow the directions.

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