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its a pain in the rear end so I took off all the knobs on my 29 and spray painted it.Looks good but not what you want. you have to try to get the old one by melting the glue tthat is holding it down and then replace it the same way.you will need a heat shrink gun to do this or if you can generate enough heat use a hair dryer.
You will need a wire stripper, solder, solder flux, heat shrink tubing, a heat gun (hair dryer will do) and a soldering iron.
1. Cut the cord where the chip is.
2. Strip the wire on both sides by about 1/8". You should have 4 exposed wires from the two wires inside the cord.
3. Apply some soldering flux to the exposed end.
4. Heat the exposed wires and apply solder. This is call tinning and will help when you are attaching the wires.
5. Cut the heat shrink tube about 1/2" long, you will need two. Insert the heat shrink tube to both wires that is to be soldered.
6. Solder the wires together by applying heat and attaching the wires when the solder melt.
7. move the heat shrink over the soldered area and use a heat gun to heat the tube. It will shrink and provide insulation as well.
**If you don't have soldering experience, you might want to take it to an experienced technician. Bad solder or poor insulation can cause expose wires and poses an electric shock hazard!
Any polarized power cord will work----cautions: the cord where it connects inside will have either a white stripe on one side or a rough surface---that is the neutral side---replacement must be soldered to correct points---you get it backwards and set will work but shock hazard will exist-------if you have enough cord left you can do a splice repair-----I cut them back and offset so not next to each other(the two sides of the cord----get some heat shrink tubing--slide it over each side and down a ways---solder the two ends for each side back together (you will lose a little of the cord) and once soldered slide the shrink tubing down over the soldered parts and heat it with a hair dryer and it will shrink air tight over the solder connection's---you do not want the splices side by side to prevent any possible short----for extra protection once done use some black electrical tape and tape the whole area.
Either replace entire cord or splice repair it. Examine cord end to end for any bare wire showing---if chewed in more than one spot replace entire cord.
If it is soldered in, just unplug washer, cut wires at switch, solder on or use **** connectors to attach new switch. Be sure to use heat shrink tubing over new connections, do NOT just use elec tape...put shrink tubing on over the wires before connecting then slide over connection afterward, use a lighter or hair dryer/heat gun to shrink completely so as to form fit over new splice, this will prevent shorting against chassis. You can get both the tubing and connectors from Radio Shack.
If the overlay isn't a protective foil that easily peals off, the hair dryer would only serve to distort it, I don't believe it will cause it to shrink to fit.
If it was applied with a 'self-stick' backing, you may be able to puncture the bubbles and press it back down with a hot rag.
This is a classic example of a clogged vent tube. Everyone cleans the lint trap, but seldom checks the tube that connects the dryer's output to the outdoors.
The tube should be removed and replaced if it is the flexible plastic type. The flexible metal tube can be used if you can clean it easily enough. The best tube to use is the sheep metal type. It can be easily cleaned and is very durable. Be sure to pay particular attention to turns or right angles of the tube - nearly always at the rear of the dryer - before it is directed away. Make sure the entire length is clear including the cap at the outside end - be it in the wall or roof.
Of course, if the heat isn't as hot as it used to be, there could be another heat source (gas or electric - or even both) related issue too. I'm betting that the vent has never been inspected.
The easiest way (a bit tricky) is to go purchase some heat-shrink tubing (if you have a way to melt the tubing) that is made for the gauge of your wires. find some extra wire of the same gauge for better clearance. Remove the end caps you used (you will need some solder and a soldering iron--very easy to learn with a bit of practice and inexpensive too). Slide the heat-shrink tubing over one end of the non-connected wire. With a bit of solder and a hot soldering iron, repair the connection. Slide the heat-shrink tubing over the connection and heat (if you don't have a hot hair dryer or other heater to melt the heat-shrink, simply patch lightly with electrical tape).
If you don't have enough clearance for electrical tape, use hot glue over the connections (it works very well, is water-proof, and more common) so you don't get a short, then wrap with only one layer of black electrical tape and tuck away.
This sounds like a hot pixel failure on the print head. The hot pixels are not repairable. The entire head will have to be replaced, most likely, at a cost of about $300. Hanover Technical Sales, Inc. (that's us) does Technical Support for Kroy printers, so we know what we're talking about.
Could it be something else? Sure, but without a pic of the issue, we'd not be able to guess what else it might be.
Make sure that heat shrink tube is clean and free of static electricity. When possible, use Kroy brand tube in the K4350. And we have a new hybrid ribbon that minimizes static at the head ... and consequently minimizes hot pixel issues.