Engine off shifts engine on grinds when putting in gear

is your clutch pedal soft? If so you could have a slave cylinder leaking or maybe just in the the system bleed back up. Might be that the clutch drive disc is burned up making it hard to shift

Most likely still has air in hydraulic clutch slave system. Many transmisions will have dificulty shifting if clutch doesn't full disengage. If air is in system it won't allow full disengage thus difficulty in shifting even possible grinding gears

Umm...

A mechanical 'breaking noise' doesn't sound good. It's hard to diagnose a problem online without being there to see/hear the vehicle. But .. it may be that your clutch pressure plate has broken/ release/throwout bearing has broken?

It's difficult to see why the master cylinder should leak - unless it was incorrectly fitted in the first place?

Just to check ... The master cylinder is in the engine bay/compartment and is where you top up with clutch fluid. When a master cylinder fails it usually results in no pressure at the clutch pedal, not a leak.

The clutch slave cylinder is the one that does all the work. When you press the pedal hydraulic pressure is sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder - which then pushes the release/throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate and 'disconnects' the driven plate .. allowing you to change gear.

The slave cylinder is the one that does all the hard work - it is located somewhere where engine and gearbox mate together, usually at the bottom right/left. It's usually the one that fails/leaks. It's quite easy to replace..

I don't think it is anything to do with reverse gear. It's more to do with the clutch pedal being depressed - and, I would suspect - something has failed.

The link below is generic images of a clutch:
clutch diagram Google Search

Basically, a clutch is 3 parts. There's the 'pressure plate' which bolts onto your flywheel. The pressure plate is a 'spring'. You depress the clutch pedal and the release/throwout bearing presses onto the centre of the pressure plate causing the 'fingers' - the springs - to bend back and take pressure off the driven plate - which is the link - the drive - between engine and gearbox.

If you have a leak your clutch will not work. This causes a 'grinding/crashing' noise when you try to change gear. The first thing you should do is check where the leak is coming from and do something about it.

The 'noise' that you mention may be due to the fact that the gears are 'grinding' as they try to mesh together without the use of the clutch.

The first thing you should do is check why there's a leak. It's difficult to see why a new master cylinder is leaking unless it was incorrectly fitted and damaged (pipes incorrectly connected..).

If it's the slave cylinder that is leaking - replace it. Easy job.

If Master cylinder and slave cylinder are ok - you have to look at your clutch unit. A clutch is always replaced with 3 parts ... throwout bearing/pressure plate and driven disk.

to answers 100% accurately id have to drive it.

but here in net bunny land, cant do that!
but can ask you to post full symptoms.

(trans or clutch issues)
question 1: can you start car in any gear. clutch held to floor, even reverse )
Q2: once started, can you always shift to reverse (the tricky one, gin?) and not grinding and no complaints,balking?
yes/no
yes then your transmission fluid is low.
or worse.
Q3:
is the clutch MC full? and does not drop day by dead week by week???


q4: new clutch
all 5 parts? or more?
PP pressure plate
disc.
throw out bearing
flywheel pilot bearing (oops?)
new slave cylinder? ,mc set

the slave and mc are a fixed pair in 2002.FSM C6-p9
and on my 2008

the slave and MC are one part and pre filled.
there is no bleeding steps only top offs.

if the clutch drags,(seems it does)
put in a new MS/SLAVE first.
avoid the 10hr labor. if a new clutch, 4wd.


I have lots more to ask.
trouble putting
so you are driving
and shifting and moving
and 1>2 shifts are what, grinds, or balks.

can you start engine in any gear (clutch to floor)

can you shift any gear parked ,running, and clutch to floor and not moving. including REVERSE ?
if all are good, cept the 1>2 upshift
that means the clutch is not dragging.
and the #2 synchro ring is worn.
or running the wrong trans fluids.

the newer transmissions are very tricky here.
some are very upset with wrong lube. (or too low or is not black as tar)
or mixing 2 brands, or using synthetic and its so slippery the syncrho fails, (cured many like this)

if all this is true, and clutch don't drag (ever)
then get the car to jeep and have them drain it and fill it with the correct lube and win.


now answer 3:
it might be just the shift linkage messed up
if the 1>2 change balks. (not grind)
on mine boxes i can hear the synchro's spin up.
i can feel them engage, if i cant feel that
then the linkage is bad.

the word trouble does not say what that means.
define trouble putting....

find a shop, a Service tech, that owns a m/T box.
and win.
Some with a/t are clueless...
ive blown more clutches racing than many ever drove.
IMO, and remember it COST YOU NOTHING to ask. (I'm retired early, gin!)

your clutch has went out or the slave cylinder to clutch or clutch master cylinder ck master for fluid if low fill and work clutch peddle to pump up slave cylinder if master is full ck at trans to see if slave cylinder is moving if moving clutch in most likely bad and needs replaced.

Hi bosslady15,

First of all I think I should say that clutches do not make grinding noises - but transmission gears do.
However, a clutch that is not disengaging properly can make the gears grind when trying to shift from one gear to the next. Also a common source of noise is the clutch throwout bearing. This will make a "grinding" or "growling" noise any time the clutch pedal is depressed. In either of these cases, the only solution is to replace the clutch, throwout bearing, pressure plate and pilot bushing. These all usually come in a clutch kit. If you have an hydraulic clutch with an internal slave cylinder it is recommended to replace the slave cylinder as well and also the flywheel on on vehicles. I'm sorry I cannot be more specific because you did not mention what type of vehicle we are talking about here.

you could have a broken disc in the pressure plate which wont let the clutch plate disengage properly

If you can put it into gear easily without the engine running but it grinds or is hard to put into gear when the engine is running then the clutch has not fully disengaged. If the clutch does not slip once you are moving then the clutch is not likely the problem. Instead you will have a faulty clutch slave cylinder and/or clutch master cylinder. The best thing to do is have both replaced and be sure that they are properly bled of all air. If the clutch does slip then it will of course need to be replaced, and be sure to have the pressure plate re-surfaced! Then there is the possibility, albeit rare, that all three need replacement.

Check all your hydraulic connections for seepage . If you find nothing leaking, check where the rod goes into the master cylinder under the dashboard...If still nothing, I'd change the master cyl, as it is likely internally bypassing and permitting the clutch to release. PS it takesa a special "touch" to shift gears without using the clutch, if you cannot do that don't drive it Till you get it fixed...you will damage synchros and will need to have trans removed and rebuilt. $$$you don't want to spend!!!

You need to check the clutch hydraulics i.e. the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder for their function, even if its cable operated try to adjust it so as it opens the clutch fork a little more to allow the clutch plate to be free,thus easy selection of gears.
If this fails thn you will have to replace the pro-kit i.e. clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing.
Hope this helps!