Re: how do i get in to change spark plug behind radiator
NO... remove the seat, then the gas tank. They can be tricky to get to and you need a socket extender but you get to them from the top. Use pre spaced fuses to make your life easier. Also apply a little motor oil on the threaded area before replacing them. Makes removing them a lot easier the next time. I recommend doing an oil change at the same time.
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It is a V-Twin, so you have two plugs. One is behind the front wheel at the top of the cylinder and the other will be roughly under the seat. both will have a wire and a rubber waterproof cap that seals the area from water. I found this also.
YOUR SPARK PLUGS ARE ON THE TOP OF THE HEADS. THE REAR CYLINDER PLUG IS RELITIVELY EASY TO CHANGE. IT IS LOCATED UNDER THE GAS TANK/SEAT. YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE BOTH TO REACH. THE FRONT IS DIRECTLY BEHIND THE UPPER RADIATOR. SO IT WILL HAVE TO BE REMOVED FROM IT'S BRACKET. I HAVE FOUND THAT A NORMAL PLUG SOCKET WILL NOT WORK BECAUSE IT IS SO DEEP IN THE HEAD SO YOU WILL NEED THE SUZUKI TOOL KIT THAT CAME WITH YOUR BIKE. GOOD LUCK, I HOPE THAT I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO HELP
The rear is easy to get to...remove seat and lift tank. On the front...remove the fairings and you will need to unbolt the radiators. Keep the hoses connected. Once they are loose just move them out of the way to get to the plug.
Gotta take off the horn for the front. Only remove one of the bolts on the bottom of the radiator and just loosten the other so it can be moved up and down easily.
Here is the procedure: Remove radiator cap, Drain coolant, remove drain plug located at bottom of radiator. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses, Remove electric fans mounting 4 bolts and disconnect electrical plug connection, Remove Hi & Lo transmission cooler lines connected behind radiator and finally, remove upper radiator mounting bolts located on top and remove radiator upward.
The area behind the drain plug on the radiator is likely plugged up with debris. Removing the lower radiator hose will do the same thing and a little faster. You also run the risk of the drain plug leaking if you remove it. Removing the lower hose will prevent this from happening as well.
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The main problem with the 3.8L plugs are the back 2 plugs on the passenger side.
It can be done without moving the engine, but extremely difficult.
The best thing to do is tilt the motor a little. It's easier than it sounds. Most people use a tiedown strap to roll the engine forward, after you remove the top motor mounts (just behind the radiator).
I prefer to use a floor jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan. Remove the upper motor mounts and jack the engine up a little to roll it forward towards the radiator. The rear plugs should be accessible.
I use a SnapOn Universal joint coupling Plug spanner. With that, I can get in at odd angles. Method. Be careful not to damage the oil cooler and radiator fins! Remove, Lower and upper cowl and wind guard. Remove oil cooler upper mounting bolts and wire harness guide. Disconnect fan motor sub harness (2 pin) and remove radiator upper mount bolt. Remove the radiator from the upper and lower brackets by moving it to the left, then move the oil cooler forward as an assembly. Remove the air guide from the oil cooler bracket and cylinder head cover. Disconnect the spark plug caps. Clean the area with compressed air to ensure no debris enters the engine. Remove the plugs and check/clean/set/replace.
remove seat, loosen rear tank bolt and nut, undo frt bolts Lift tank (using a pce of steel rod or simular) hold tank up in position, there are a couple of fuel lines to remove also so you can get the tank back further all u need to do is press on the sides od each fitting and they will unlock , slide off, remove coils and rubber seals LOOK there they are now blow some air around the spark plugs so to get any debris outta there R & R plugs and now guess what ? refit every thing back remember NOT to over tighten any of the bolts etc
The front three spark plugs are easy to replace, it's the rear ones that is tricky and there are a few ways to get to them.
1 way is you need to remove the "dog bones" or top mounts on the engine. then pry the engine forward about 4" There is a special tool for tilting the engine made by Lisle corp. called a GM engine tilt tool about $40. This will give you room to get the the rear spark plugs with extensions and a spark plug socket with a swivel attached to it. 2 you can have a friend help you buy, placing the emergency brakes on and removing the "dog bone" again, and the transmission in park. Both of you would then push the car forward after taking the emergency brakes off. This will tilt the engine forward but take caution not to tilt the engine to far forward in to the radiator and place the emergency brakes on. 3rd If you remover the horizontal crossbar inside the engine right in front of the windshield you can reach behind the engine and change the plugs without dismounting the engine. I recommend putting a piece of carpet or a pad over the top of the engine to protect it while you change the plugs. Good luck and hope this helps and be careful not to drop the new plugs.
There are a few ways to doing this, and it takes time and a few band aids. You can remove the alternator to give you some room to access the rear spark plug with an extension and swivel spark plug socket. You can also get to the plugs from under neath if you have a ramp and long arm, an extension and swivel spark plug socket will help. You may have to use a 2x4 to wedge the engine to give you some room if you have larger arms. The other way is to tilt the engine forward by disconnecting the two top engine mounts. First replace the 3 front plugs and wire one at a time so you don't cross them. After you have changed the front plugs have a friend help you. Make sure the parking brakes are on and disconnect the two top engine mounts, release the parking brakes and let the transmission in park. Push the van forward slowly to tilt the engine forward far enough to give you room with out pushing it to far in to the radiator. Put the parking brakes on again to keep the van from rolling back and place a block of wood behind and in front of the rear wheels. Don't want to lose an arm. Replace the rear plugs with extensions and a swivel spark plug socket. Note, your going to have to replace the spark plug wire since the rear ones are really hard to remove and pulling on then will destroy them, not worth the headache trying to save them. Use platinum plugs so you can get 100.000 miles before you have to change them again so use anti-seize on the plugs so you can remove them again. Good luck and hope this helps, I personally go from under the van.