The oil was fine. but have found copper filings in the oil filter. have taken the engine out & striped the clutch housing but no sign of copper filings inside. i have managed to release the pistons. there is a grinding sound from one of them. could it be that one of the rings has snaped??
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for automatic transmissions where the oil is not fresh but shows signs of burning ( burnt smell) , the transmission shows signs of sluggish changing the a flush would be recommended
There are 2 methods that can be used
the first is a cheap method where the pan is removed and the oil taken out and the filter cleaned
While the pan is off , the clutch packs and bands can be adjusted
The more costly method but a far better choice is to flush the transmission while the engine is running
Oil is sucked in from a fresh drum and delivered to a waste drum. this changes all the oil in the transmission and torque converter where as the first method leaves dirty oil in the torque converter
The second method does not require the pan removal so adjustments are not done and the filter is not cleaned
While the advice to change the oil is good you have to decide which method you want to use
I suggest a discussion of the merits of both with an accredited transmission shop and get quotes.
First, check your engine oil level , while on level ground, add if it's low. (The oil viscosity should be labeled on the oil filler cap) Blue smoke is a sign of burning oil, not a good sign. White smoke is a sign of coolant mixing with your engine oil, a worse sign.
Your computer is telling you to check your oil, so do it, or get it done.
If your oil is low, top it off and keep checking it regularly to see if your engine is consuming it. If it is, I would recommend getting it looked at for either a leak, or low compression. (Worn out piston rings will cause oil consumption and poor performance.)
First warm up your bike then locate your oil neck filler on your LH side just above your clutch foot pedal, open / loosen it.
Just below it below your clutch housing you will find a large bolt that needs to be opened counterclock wise with a size 17 spanner, unbolt it, before doing so put an oil pan below it to catch the oil.
Your oil filter housing normally reside in the center of your block, open using a size 15 spanner, place oil pan below it to catch any oil drippings.
As soon as you have unbolt the oil filter housing, carefully note the sequence the oil filter is set-up as you need to put everything back in the same order.
Once you have taken the oil plug off and no more oill coming out from the hole, you can put the drain plug in again and tighten it just tight enough to stop poil from leaking, do not over tighthen as it will make more difficult whe doing the next oil change.
Reverse your oil filter process and tighten the bolt tight enough to hold any leaks.
Last step to fill you bike though the oil neck filler hole with 10W40 oil as factory recommendation (about 2.5 -2.8 L). Check everything ensuring they are tight enough then just start your bike for let it idle for abour 2-3 minutes while looking for any seeping from the drain hole of oil filter huosing, if any.
Once that is finish you are finish with the oil change job.
Nice and easy, drop the oil from the bottom of the sump, pull the oil check stick, remove filter in the black cylindrical housing at the front of the engine it has a massive hexagon shape on the top which simply unscrews with the right tool, to reveal the filter, replace the sump bolt using a new copper washer, replace filter and put oil in whilst checking dipstick as you go.Good luck.Davelee
Hi! I hate to rub salt in your wounds but after all your effort the time spent you could have the engine back in by now. All the tin ware needs to be lifted well clear as you know the oil cooler is upright in the path of the Rotor/fan, this also needs to be raised well clear as the cooler needs to be taken off completely, you will want to clean surfaces and internals won't you? So all shrouds to bodywork off,(Engine bay) throttle cable disconnected, clutch cable disconnected your generator wires off and finally fuel pipe. 4 bolts on gearbox bell housing and slide engine out or down for clearance on trolley jack. All the above relates to a TypeII Split or bay window with stock engine, Not suitcase or injection. Good Luck! Please remember to appraise my FREE efforts by pressing the Blue button? Thank You! Paul 'W' U.K.
in both manuals is 4 to 6mm (1/4). I read this to mean total play NOT 1/4' up +1/4 down for a total of 1/2' play correct?
2 - On the oil filter between the cap nut and the oil filter cover was a copper washer in the oil change kit was an o - ring. The o-ring seems too large it squeezes out from beneath the cap nut using only enough tension to compress the oil filter spring.
I reused the copper washer. ( Note: the copper washer for the drain plug was also a little oversized, the large o-ring for the cover itself seems fine. ) Did I order the wrong kit? On the order form it states for Original Bullets made 11/98 & on. I own an '08 cast iron engined Classic.
3 - Can the small copper washers be had anywhere.?
Other than these minor items the 500 km service is progressing well !!!!!,Questions 500km service.,,,
the fact your leaking oil tellls me you have bad transmission, replaced entire component as its not field servicable, the cluthc also gets replaced at same time(oil get on the pads and wont ever engage properly