The oil was fine. but have found copper filings in the oil filter. have taken the engine out & striped the clutch housing but no sign of copper filings inside. i have managed to release the pistons. there is a grinding sound from one of them. could it be that one of the rings has snaped??
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Hi,with the engines I have worked on in the past I found that I had to take off the side casings and the clutch housing and the stator,and all the other components first,then the then you can undo all the bolts to split the casing you should get a haynes manuel to help you,its quite strate forwould if you are mechanicaly minded,you nearly have to stripe the engine rite down,a lot of time and patiots is needed,all the best.
Could possibly be Crank shaft, crank bearing, or dropped a valve. Im assuming when you say it wont start, you mean it wont even turn over. If you say the drive sprocket wont turn then someting is stopping the crank shaft from turning. You will need to explore more of the engine to find the exact problem. Workshop manuals can be found online and downloaded if you look about, they will tell you exactly how to strip the engine down.
The engine breather pipe is mostly routed to the air cleaner box, if it gets oily means the piston oil rings are the culprit. You can do one thing to make sure though, remove the breather pipe at the air cleaner housing and start the bike, see if there are signs of bluish smoke or oil vapours emitting there.
First warm up your bike then locate your oil neck filler on your LH side just above your clutch foot pedal, open / loosen it.
Just below it below your clutch housing you will find a large bolt that needs to be opened counterclock wise with a size 17 spanner, unbolt it, before doing so put an oil pan below it to catch the oil.
Your oil filter housing normally reside in the center of your block, open using a size 15 spanner, place oil pan below it to catch any oil drippings.
As soon as you have unbolt the oil filter housing, carefully note the sequence the oil filter is set-up as you need to put everything back in the same order.
Once you have taken the oil plug off and no more oill coming out from the hole, you can put the drain plug in again and tighten it just tight enough to stop poil from leaking, do not over tighthen as it will make more difficult whe doing the next oil change.
Reverse your oil filter process and tighten the bolt tight enough to hold any leaks.
Last step to fill you bike though the oil neck filler hole with 10W40 oil as factory recommendation (about 2.5 -2.8 L). Check everything ensuring they are tight enough then just start your bike for let it idle for abour 2-3 minutes while looking for any seeping from the drain hole of oil filter huosing, if any.
Once that is finish you are finish with the oil change job.
Dear Sir. The engine oil flows through the starter clutch which acts as a centrfugal oil filter. Sludge builds up and causes the starter clutch to slip.
It is possible to replace the Benelli 900 starter clutch without having to remove the engine. It requires removing the clutch, then the side casing and gears. The sump needs to be removed...middle exhauster header pipes first. The lh engine cover and oil pump also needs to be removed. The primary drive shaft can then be removed from the RHS of the engine. the primary drive chain and satrer clutch assembly will now drop enough to enable the removal of the sprocket from the starter clutch (it is a bit tight and then the rest of the starter clutch will come out of the chain. Be aware that the oil pump drive connector is on the end of the primary drive shaft and care needs to be exercised. This is possible if due caution and care is taken. Assembly id basically reverse of above. Happy fixing.
in both manuals is 4 to 6mm (1/4). I read this to mean total play NOT 1/4' up +1/4 down for a total of 1/2' play correct?
2 - On the oil filter between the cap nut and the oil filter cover was a copper washer in the oil change kit was an o - ring. The o-ring seems too large it squeezes out from beneath the cap nut using only enough tension to compress the oil filter spring.
I reused the copper washer. ( Note: the copper washer for the drain plug was also a little oversized, the large o-ring for the cover itself seems fine. ) Did I order the wrong kit? On the order form it states for Original Bullets made 11/98 & on. I own an '08 cast iron engined Classic.
3 - Can the small copper washers be had anywhere.?
Other than these minor items the 500 km service is progressing well !!!!!,Questions 500km service.,,,