Question about Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard Motorcycles

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I cannot get my clutch assembly off my soft ail.

I have removed the main shaft nut, but the assembly will not come off.

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  • Todd Metcalf Jan 19, 2013

    I have the nut removed but the assembly will not come off. It seems to be stuck.

  • Todd Metcalf Jan 19, 2013

    Is there a trick to getting this to budge

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  • Master
  • 786 Answers

Yes, I assume you're pulling the clutch hub. You will need a puller to do the job. If you pull it wrong you could very well break it apart then you're looking a buying a new clutch hub assembly. Go to www.harleytechtalk.org Sign up is free go to either general or twin cam section. do a search on clutch removal if you still have question just ask, you will get all the answers you need right there. It's the greatest Harley site in the world. Privately run with NO Advertisement. If you like the site. Consider donating some money to keep it going.

Posted on Jan 20, 2013

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2 Answers

How do i remove the fan and pulley on a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 v-6?


The question is: How remove clutch in order to remove fan mounted on its engine-side face.
  • Generally, the clutch drive half shaft must be uncoupled from coolant pump (impeller drive) half shaft using special wrench kit available as loaner from AutoZone (free with $79 approx deposit).
  • Best done after shroud & radiator remove after coolant drained.
  1. Uncouple coolant pump and fan clutch drive shaft(s) as follows:
    1. span across combo-pulley-sheaves-unit mounting bolt heads with large tool kit wrench, and
    2. span inline clutch coupling nut with small tool kit wrench. Then,
    3. turn small wrench (and coupling nut) CW while resisting with large wrench (CCW) to turn coupling nut until disengaged from coolant pump drive shaft.
  2. Remove fan/clutch assembly.
  3. Note direction of mounted fan hub and fan blades orientation to ensure proper re-assembly.
  4. On rear of clutch assy, remove 4 bolts to disengage and remove fan.
  5. Assemble new fan to clutch (or, preferably, new clutch and new fan) using new bolts and washers provided with fan.
  6. Couple fan-clutch assy to coolant pump drive shaft as per opposite of uncoupling step 1, above. (Turn inline nut CCW to tighten...30 ft-lb.
  7. Check that fan can be hand turned...CW.)
  8. Rest shroud over and onto fan.
  9. Replace radiator; remount shroud; reclamp hoses, and refill and air purge cooling system.
remove-fan-pulley-1987-ford-ranger-2-9-v-2cg35myhodwcq1awmwat24pw-4-0.jpg

Aug 12, 2012 | 1987 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

How do i replace the regulator & stator on a 92


There's nothing to replacing the regulator. It simply bolts to the frame. The wires from the regulator to the stator plug into the plug on the lower left front of the engine case. The larger longer wires runs back along the frame and up to the positive post of the battery.

There's a bit more to replacing the stator. To replace the stator, disconnect the battery and drain the primary case. Remove the outer primary cover. You'll have to take the engine compensator sprocket nut off and remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. To get the clutch assembly off, remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the clutch adjuster. The mainshaft nut is inside the hole in the center of the clutch assembly. The nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and take the engine sprocket, primary chain with adjuster, and the clutch assembly off all together. The rotor is on the engine sprocket shaft. It can be difficult to get off because of the magnets inside of it. The rotor has two holes in it. I use two long bolts and put them just into the holes deep enough to hold the rotor by squeezing the ends together. Pull the rotor off. The stator is held on by four small Torx bolts and it has a wire support that is held on by two small sheet metal screws. When you install the new stator, make sure you use thread locker on the threads and torque the bolts to 40 inch pounds of torque. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch mainshaft nut (LEFT HANDED THREADS) torques to 60-80 foot pounds. You'll probably need a locking bar or some way to prevent the engine from turning while you torque the nuts.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 01, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide...

1 Answer

How do i pull the clutch assembly on a 84 fxrs


Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary oil and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the four bolts that hold the clutch spring in. Remove the clutch spring and pressure plate. Then, you can remove the friction and steel plates. If you want to remove the entire clutch assembly, you'll have to remove the nut from the transmission mainshaft and remove the sprocket shaft nut. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Once you get the nut off, you'll need a clutch puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered transmission mainshaft. Get one of the pullers that screw onto the mainshaft and you rap it with a hammer. You do not have to disassemble the clutch assembly completely to remove it from the mainshaft. You can take it off as a unit by removing the snap ring in the center and removing the adjuster plate. Remove the sprocket shaft nut, the chain adjuster nut, and the mainshaft nut and remove the engine sprocket, primary chain and clutch assembly all together.

Good Luck
steve

Jun 10, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide...

1 Answer

How do i remove the clutch basket on a 1988 fxrs


Now, if you wish to remove the clutch as a unit, disconnect the battery. Drain the primary case. Remove the primary cover. Take the compensator sprocket nut off. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster. Now, take the snap right out of the clutch release plate and remove the plate. You'll have to take the nut off the mainshaft that holds the clutch assembly on. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Then you need a puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered shaft, Custom Chrome 20269, $30 and a "locking bar" to keep the engine from turning while you torque the nuts, Custom Chrome 20825,$26. You can then disassemble the clutch and you'll need a press to press the inner clutch hub out of the outer clutch hub.

Then compensator sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds and the clutch mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Put one line of Loctite 271 red in each nut. You will need a torque wrench that will torque in the reverse direction. All torque wrenches won't do that.

Good Luck
Steve

Apr 13, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide...

1 Answer

Need diagram to put on starter drive clutch ***.for 1985 1340cc harley


To replace the starter drive clutch on your 1985 model Big Twin, first disconnect the battery. Drain the primary and remove the primary cover. Remove the starter drive shaft that has the clutch on it. Clamp the drive shaft in a vise equipped with soft jaws and remove the nut from the end of the shaft. The nut is the round piece on the end that has two flats for a wrench to fit. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Remove the starter drive and replace it with a new unit. Replace the nut using Loctite 271 red and put the starter drive shaft back in. Make sure you purchase a good starter drive clutch. Avoid the Chinese units as they don't hold up very well. If you need a diagram, go to this site. http://www.bikebandit.com/1985-harley-davidson-fxst/o/m1502#sch209973

Good Luck
steve

Apr 13, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

I have a saturn sl1 2000 i change the vevle body is a use one but the revers is not working at all. can tell me wats is worrg with it.



The most common cause of delay or no reverse, other than the valve body, is a loose main-shaft nut. The symptoms will most likely occur when the vehicle is hot, and may also exhibit a soft or flared 2nd gear up-shift. A loose main-shaft nut can cause a Leak in the 2nd clutch circuit. When the nut is loose, the main-shaft walks back and forth In the middle of the case. This causes a small gap between the 1st clutch and the nut, which is where the leak in the 2nd clutch circuit appears. A new main-shaft nut should be replaced with every repair, since it has a factory thread locker. The nut can be accessed by removing the side cover, which means the unit does not have to be removed to replace it. The nut, and this is very important, should be torqued to 111 ft. lbs. The Saturn part number for the main-shaft nut is 21001680.

Another common no reverse condition is a faulty or defective vehicle speed sensor. The input from the VSS to the PCM should always read less than 5 mph. This allows the PCM to command high line pressure, which in turn will move the servo apply valve (1992-up models only) to an open position, thus opening up the passage to allow oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. If the VSS is defective (thus reading 5 mph or above on your scan tool), the PCM will command low line pressure, thus not feeding oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. In turn, the slider assembly will not move, causing a no reverse condition.

Another problem that occurs, especially when the unit has been removed, is an incorrectly adjusted pattern select switch, which we all commonly know as the manual lever positioning switch. If the pattern select switch is not adjusted properly, a no reverse condition, as well as loss of drive and/or erratic or harsh shifting can occur. To adjust the pattern select switch, put the selector in the D4 position. DO NOT start the vehicle. Connect an ohm meter to the switch. Rotate the switch until the ohm meter reads continuity. Once a reading is obtained, tighten the pattern select switch.

Nov 03, 2010 | 2000 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Whats it take to install a clutch hub for a 1988 police bike flhpt


To install a clutch is not what I call an easy job but not an extremely difficult job either. You are going to need some special tools however.

The tools you'll need are an impact wrench, a large socket to fit the compensator nut and one to fit the mainshaft nut, a primary locking bar, torque wrenches that will torque to 150 foot pounds and 70 foot pounds in the left handed direction, and a special tool required to disassemble the clutch assembly.

First, disconnect the battery, then drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover. Use the impact wrench and appropiate socket to remove the compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Remove the snap ring holding the release plate in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the LEFT HANDED THREADED mainshaft nut. Take the nut off the chain tensioner and remove the primary drive (engine sprocket, adjuster, and clutch assembly) as a unit.

Now, using the special tool, compress the clutch spring and remove the lock ring holding the clutch assembly together. Disassemble the clutch and reassemble it with the new clutch hub. Reinstall the primary drive. Apply one line of Loctite 271 inside the mainshaft nut and torque it to 70-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Apply two lines of Loctite 271 (red) to the compensator nut and torque it to 150-165 foot pounds. This is what the locking bar is for, to keep the engine from turning while applying the torque to these two nut. Adjust the primary chain and reinstallt the outer primary. Add about one quart of lubricant to the primary. Reconnect the battery. Adjsut the clutch and cable.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 17, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King...

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

How do I pull the front Sprocket inside the primary cover to change the stator


The compensator has a large nut on it and it's very tight. But, I get them off with an air impact wrench. You also have to remove the clutch assembly and primary chain. To remove the cluch assy, remove the clutch rod adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly by removing the snap ring. Inside the clutch is the mainshaft shaft nut. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS ON IT. Take it off and the remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster off and lift the front sprocket, the clutch, and the chain off all together.

The rotor should come right off but you'll have to put two bolts in the holes on the rotor and squeeze them together to get a grip on the rotor to pull it off. The magnitism force is quite strong.

When replacing the clutch and compensator, the mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED. The sprocket shaft nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds. You'll need something to lock the primary chain while you torque the nuts or the engine will turn before you get them torqued.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 06, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

2 Answers

The transmission when you start the motor takes time to run on drive shift and runs on second gear and i dont know if something gets hot becouse sometimes after you drive for a while it doesent work my car...


The most common cause of delay or no reverse, other than the valve body, is a loose main-shaft nut. The symptoms will most likely occur when the vehicle is hot, and may also exhibit a soft or flared 2nd gear up-shift. A loose main-shaft nut can cause a Leak in the 2nd clutch circuit. When the nut is loose, the main-shaft walks back and forth In the middle of the case. This causes a small gap between the 1st clutch and the nut, which is where the leak in the 2nd clutch circuit appears. A new main-shaft nut should be replaced with every repair, since it has a factory thread locker. The nut can be accessed by removing the side cover, which means the unit does not have to be removed to replace it. The nut, and this is very important, should be torqued to 111 ft. lbs. The Saturn part number for the main-shaft nut is 21001680.
Another common slow or no reverse condition is a faulty or defective vehicle speed sensor. The input from the VSS to the PCM should always read less than 5 mph. This allows the PCM to command high line pressure, which in turn will move the servo apply valve (1992-up models only) to an open position, thus opening up the passage to allow oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. If the VSS is defective (thus reading 5 mph or above on your scan tool), the PCM will command low line pressure, thus not feeding oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. In turn, the slider assembly will not move, causing a no reverse condition.

Oct 25, 2009 | 1997 Saturn SL

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