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To remove and install a rear belt on your Sportster, first take the right foot peg and the brake lever off the bike. Disconnect the rear brake master cylinder and remove it. Take the front belt pulley cover off the engine. Raise the rear of the bike and support it in a safe manner. Remove the rear wheel. Remove the right rear shock absorber. Work the belt off the front pulley and over the right leg of the swingarm. Reassemble in the reverse order and adjust the tension on the new belt. Reinstall the rear brake master cylinder and bleed the brake.
If you are talking about the front foot peg. Take the screw that holds the peg to the mount out. Inside the mount you will see an allen that tightens the mount to the shaft you will need to tighten this allen. Then put the peg back on and your done.
Yes, this is where the passenger foot peg on the left side of the bike goes. There is an arm that clamps onto the round stub on the inspection cover and is afjustable to almost any angle. The right side foot peg support bolts to the end of the transmission and also has an adfustable arm that clamps onto a stub on it. Then the pegs go on the end of the arms. Go to this site and take a look . http://www.bikebandit.com/1975-harley-davidson-flh-1200/o/m770#sch171752 I'm pretty sure they didn't move the peg brackets to the seat tubes of the frame until 1977. If your bike has two holes in a welded-on tab on the rear of the down tubes behind the primary and the transmission, you can use the later model peg brackets. But, if your bike has no holes in the frame or the swingarm for passenger peg brackets, this is the only style you can use and stay original. You could fabricate and weld on tabs to later model peg brackets or use clamp on brackets and pegs.
No, the engine does NOT have to come out of the frame.
First, disconnect the battery. Drain the primary cover, remove the shifter, foot peg, loosen the primary chain adjuster under the outer cover, whatever needs to be removed depending on your model Sportster to get the primary cover off.
From the right side of the bike, remove the exhaust system and whatever you need to remove to get the starter off. Disconnect the large battery cable and the single wire from the starter.
Back on the left side, there are two large bolts just above the clutch assembly, remove them. They may be different lengths so watch for that. Remove the starter.
I assume you want to know how to replace a final drive belt on a Sporty. First off, be glad you ain't working on a Big Twin. Sportster's are much easier than Big Twins to replace the belt on.
First, get the bike off the ground where you can remove the rear wheel. Then, remove the rear shock on the right side. Remove the bolts from the rear master cylinder and the large nut that holds the right foot peg on. Remove the front pulley cover.
Take the new belt and install it with the right leg of the swing arm through the belt. You may can work the belt over the front drive pulley. If not, use an air wrench to remove the pulley and install the belt. Retorque the pulley to 110-120 foot pounds. Remember the threads on this nut are left handed.
Reinstall the rear wheel and shock absorber. Adjust the belt to the proper tension. Then replace the front pulley cover and rear master cylinder.
Unless they've changed something that I don't know about, simply remove the pegs that are on the bike now and replace them with whatever type of pegs you want.
Now, if your bike is equipped with forward controls and you are wishing to install a set of mid mount foot pegs, you will need to purchase the foot peg mounting pieces. You need to go to a dealership, look at the parts manuals, and order the parts you need from them. Or, you could look around at a swap meet and possibly find the parts you need used. By doing this, you would have both mid mount and forward controls. Just make sure there is no interference with any linkage for the rear brakes or shifting. I have not done this particular job on a Sportster but have done it on a Dyna Wide Glide once. Turned out nice but the control linkage is different on a Sportster.
Two bolts on the rear fender will need to be removed. Also remove the passenger Pillion(Seat). Normally one bolt in the back and the pillion slides into the driver seat. Pulling back on the pillion after removal of the hold down bolt usually releases it.
The brackets to hold the saddlebags straight and away from the rear tire/ brake disc. Mounts with shims to the two bolt holes on either side of the bike. (remember those bolts removed earlier?) Center the saddle bags by eye. Sometimes it is best to have someone hold the bike straight and center from the rear. If the bike is on the kick stand, it will not be easy to center the saddle bags.
Next put the passenger pillion back in place. Check the bracket clearance and make sure no part of the saddle bags are touching any moving part. You can bend the brackets to adjust but usually not necessary. Just be careful with the chrome fender flares. Those curved chrome rear fender shiny things. :) You can scratch the paint very easily while working with them. Use a cloth/towel where you can to prevent marring of the paint. Really simple to do with minimal tools. Some of the saddle bag bracket kits come with longer bolts. Use them!
My 1100 Vstar I used the twist rods from a set of Shoe Stretchers. Screwed directly into a kuryakyn foot peg adapter. Black with a triangular tip worked great. Heck of a lot cheaper too! Nice thing about this arrangement, only had to remove the foot peg bolts. Then the rear passenger seat. Easy to adjust the angle of the bracket by loosening the foot peg either side. Pull up, push down or bend out to get proper position.