Question about Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead -acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Posted on Sep 27, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
The voltage on the green wire must be pulsating when cranking/starting the bike, not steady. Confirm by similarly testing the voltage on the black wire on the left ignition coil. If the green still reads a constant voltage, then the CDI is faulty; to be more specific, most likely that the switching tansistor inside the CDI that drives the right ignition coil has shorted.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
Find an inductive pickup indicator for spark. Place on distributor cap to see if spark is at coil internal tower. If no spark at internal tower, look at ignition module or pickup coil. Ignition modules are prone to failure on 626's. But if you have spark at tower but not at the wire end, then your rotor is gone.
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
The above site has full diagrams for the whole bike (1971 DT1E), diagr. below from site shows elec. components, hope it assists you.
Posted on Apr 27, 2010
If you have continuity from the coil to the ignitor, the problem lies within the ignitor. The coils function by having a constant battery voltage on the red/black wire (you'll notice that ALL the coils have a red/black wire) - the primary windings in the coil charge up, until the ignitor "grounds" the colored wire (grey and white in the front, orange and yellow in the rear). As the voltage in the primary winding drops, it creates a strong magnetic field - the magnet (laminated iron) in the center of the coil charges the secondary windings, and the very high voltages generated fire the plug. You've already determined that the voltage on the orange wire is higher than the voltage on the yellow wire; that could only be because the orange wire is not being "grounded" on a recurring basis by the ignitor. (You have to remember that the meter you're testing the leads with cannot react to changes in voltage nearly as quickly as they happen; to really "see" what's happening at the coil, you'd need to use an oscilloscope).
Posted on Jul 29, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks, the problem was the ignitor. I replaced it with a new one, and the bike works fine. Thanks again."
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