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Hi. I have a 96 Sportster with a fat boy conversion. I sent my tanks and tins away for paint but forgot to take pictures. Can somebody send a diagram for fuel line routing please? Thanx a million!

This bike has a fat boy conversion

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SOURCE: Faulty Indicator

hi again now that we know that the other three work we can carry on,
fist check remove bulb from faulty indicator and check bulb by swapping with one that does work
2/ check that you have a supply to your centr contact on the bulb holder, if not trace yor feed cable backwards you may find a break or a diconnected connector,if you have a supply to your bulb holder then the problem must be in your earth,this can be checked by fitting your bulb .select the faulty indicator nd with a piece of wire bared at both ends touch one end to bulb holder,the other to enging ore known good earth ,and you should ba flashing,if so ,then your problem will be solved by simply working out where the bulb holder has lost its route to earth
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SOURCE: Need diagram for fuel lines on craftsman chainsaw

There is two sizes of line. I see the large one goes to the large port on the primer button and then to the fuel tank. The small one goes from the primer button to the carb. The problem is there are two hose connections on the carb. I believe one is a vent, but I am not sure what one it is. I have a 36cc 2-cycle model 358.352161

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

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SOURCE: white film inside fuel tank coming off.

Sorry - misunderstood.
sounds like Kreem tank sealer or similar (there are lots of brands...) - treat for same.

  • Work in a well ventilated area
  • Don't have ignition sources around (if you light-up, you might REALLY light-up!)
  • Be aware that acetone can eat away at a nice paint job, wipe it off immediately
  • Sucking acetone fumes into a shop vac can cause fire from the electric

1. two gallons of acetone
2. 3 foot length of chain - the type of brass chain used for plant hangers works well.
3. large drip pan
4. two fabricated petcock hole covers
5. tank epoxy from Caswell or other suitable tank conditioner(?)
6. shop vacuum that can be set to blow
7. baggies
8. optional expandable rubber plug for fuel fill hole
9. 10 mm wrench (open-end helps) for dealing with sender unit
10. wire cutter (may be needed for sender unit)
11. plenty of shop rags
12. replacement O-rings for petcock gaskets
PROCEDURE IN DETAIL: 1. drain tank of all gas
2. remove petcocks
3. remove fuel gage float/sender unit
4. fabricate covers to cover petcock holes
5. remove gaskets from petcocks
6. use petcock gaskets with fabricated covers and install on tank
7. disconnect lead wires from sender unit (may have to cut and then reattach later)
8. use gasket from sender unit, install sender unit backwards on tank with float on the outside
9. pour chain into tank
10. pour gallon of acetone into tank
11. install leak proof cap (I suggest using an expandable rubber drain plug, but I just held the fuel cap down tight)
12. check for leaks
13. shake periodically, to remove rust and Kreem (keep in tank at least a day shake often enough to keep the Kreem damp prior to draining or it will re-solidify)
14. open one petcock hole and sender unit port and drain out the acetone saturated with Kreem and rust
15. remove chain - use a coathanger.
16. CAUTION acetone fumes are flammable and can ignite with the motor of a shop vacuum. Manually remove them.
17. reseal tank sender unit port and petcock holes
18. pour in 1/2 gallon of fresh acetone
19. shake often
20. remove one petcock cover
21. drain acetone into drip pan
22. replace petcock cover and gasket
23. filter the used acetone through a coffee filter into a mason jar (use the mason ring to hold filter)
24. pour in the filtered acetone (or use fresh)
25. add fresh if needed
26. shake periodically
27. repeat steps 20 to 25
28. remove petcock cover and drain tank contents
29. remove all other seals
30. use shop vac and hook it up for BLOWING.
31. Place hose over fuel filler hole and dry the inside of the tank very thoroughly (outside, of course)
32. Reseal petcock holes and sender unit port, but this time, use baggies between the tank and the gaskets to protect them from the resin. Note that I had to buy new O-rings anyway because my official Yamaha petcock gaskets were too deformed to seal after this process.
33. thoroughly mix the Caswell Tank epoxy (I used a drill attachment)
34. pour into the fuel filler hole and seal it.
35. rotate the tank, shake it, rotate it several minutes to cover all inside surfaces
36. continue for about 20 minutes or so (might depend on the temperature)
37. remove a petcock cover and drain excess epoxy
38. remove other petcock cover and sender unit
39. wipe off epoxy drips with acetone rag around open holes
40. let epoxy firm a little, install all screws with a drop of light machine oil, and then remove all screws to clear off threads, then let cure at least over night
41. Reassemble
That is, if you want to reseal it...

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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