Question about 1985 Honda XR 600 R
The bike is hard starting acts like it has no fuel@
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to fix those XR600R carb issues Deathridge
93 XR600R Carb Adjustments 4Strokes com
1985 1990 Honda XR600R Service Repair Manual Download 1985 1986 1987 1988... $15
Posted on Oct 22, 2017
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if air is entering the carb anywhere but the intake boot then you will have problems. if the crack is in the float bowl then you are llucky..if not..no big deal you can get a carb cheap from a slavage yard or buy it new ...if there is a crack in the air boot then it will need to be replaced...no mcguyver repairs on that
Posted on May 03, 2009
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).
Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.
Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the two screws on the outside throat of the carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.
Please rate this solution. Thanks!
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
Sounds like getting hot is the key here - try a better shop. A competent shop should be able to find this quickly. Sounds like a carb issue to me.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
your carb: of course your carb has an idle and a mixture screw built-in. the idle is the knurled (usually gold) screw with the spring on it. and the mixture screw is the small one (usually gold too) set into the carb body. you'll know it because it's not hoding anything on. just sitting in the body. turn it only 1/4 turn at a time. your slide-needle should be mid to down if anything. c-clip up and needle down, that is. you want it to run as lean as possible w/o doing damage of course. almost all amateur's bikes run WAY too rich, all the time.
if you ever look at the starting line of a pro race compared to a local one, you'll be amazed. there's no smoke coming from a pro's bike. let your bike run a little hotter and cleaner and change the piston and rings more often. you and your bike will be happier couple.
a good way to test how your bike is running is to get it hot then run it wide open in fourth gear and hit the kill switch (if it still has one) while you still have it pegged. take the plug out and check the color. it should be light tan to pretty clean. any darker and your losing power. (don't use a new plug when you do this). are you getting a good spark? use the best plug you can get for your bike too. if your carb has adjustment for low, mid, and high end, then you should do it three times. at those three throttle speeds.
ATAC: are you sure you're going to remove the ATAC-valve system? if not then let me know. there are things you should know and do to make sure it's working right. it works very well if maintained and adjusted correctly.
as far as how it runs...it should absolutely rip. i was riding a cr 250 back then, but even a 30-year old 125 should scare you if it's running right. of course the piston and rings sounds like your major issue, but make sure it's breathing and flowing clean from airbox to silencer. are you replacing the silencer along woth the pipe?
Boyessen reeds are still your best bet. make sure your not sucking any air in through your intake manifold too. if it's old and cracked, then that could be why it was running too hot. of course make sure the surfaces on the manifold and the cylinder are in good shape and that no air can get sucked-in between them. a medium-depth scratch on the length of the seal surface can be bad.
i switched from kx's to yz's to cr's through the 80's and i loved the hondas. even managed a 4N (4th in the nation) plate on the cr. have fun and go fast! (don't ride over-your-head though) :)
i know every screw, spoke, and gasket of your bike and how it works like the back of my hand. if you have any other questions, plz feel free. i have lots of little factory-mechanic tips to help make your bike faster always stays in perfect shape, if you're interested.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
SOURCE: my 95 xr600r dirt bike leaks oil
This hose should be connected to the air filter box.
It's for ventilation of the crankcase, much like the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) in cars. As the bike runs, the crankcase gets hot enough to vaporize some of the oil. And since there's always at least a little bit of combustion blowby in the cylinders, you get a bit of fuel/air thrown into the mix and an oil/fuel/air "atmosphere" in the crankcase, which isn't an ideal situation. So, when the hose is connected to the air filter box, it slightly vacuums off this atmosphere, letting the engine burn it and expel it through the exhaust.
If it's not connected to the airbox, the vapors can condense back to oil and just drip out.
If a lot of oil is coming out ("a lot" is hard to quantify), you could be getting excessive blowby because of a broken ring or cracked piston.
Hook that breather line back up to the airbox and unless the bike smokes excessively, I wouldn't worry about it.
If it IS hooked up, it or the airbox is cracked and needs fixing/replacing. If the breather line has somehow become plugged (mud-daubers are amazing at finding holes to makes homes out of), the pressure buildup could have split your vent line.
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
May 31, 2014 | 1985 Honda XR 600 R
May 21, 2014 | 1985 Honda XR 600 R
Apr 04, 2014 | 1985 Honda XR 600 R
Jan 28, 2014 | 1985 Honda XR 250 R
Jan 28, 2014 | 2005 Honda CRF 100 F
Jul 21, 2010 | 1993 kawasaki ZXR 750
Sep 17, 2009 | 1986 Honda XR 600 R
Aug 13, 2009 | 1985 Honda XR 600 R
Mar 16, 2009 | 1988 Honda XR 600 R
74 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: