Question about kawasaki ZXR 750 Motorcycles
My Kawasaki ZXR 750 J, does not make any spark. I have change the spark plugs, so they are ok. The coils have 12volt at the red wire, and also 12 volt at the grenn/brown, the green/brown is the "trigger" wire, right? Should they have 12volts all the time? Is my coils bad, or is it my CDI? Can i measure on my coils? what sould they have in meausurements? Sorry for my bad english.. :-)
Rarely will both coils fail. Try disconnecting blk wire with yellow stripe from cdi. Check fire again, if fire is good you !likely have a bad ign switch. If there is still no fire, you will need to test trigger, stater. Also remember the can position senor. Test denser to specs. If cambsenser can't tell cdi where number 1 piston is, there will be no fire. Let me know how it works out for you.
Posted on Oct 08, 2017
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: how do i change the
You need prop the bike up on front and rear stands. The fron stand needs to be the type that holds the bike up by the headtube. Remove brake calipers, front wheel, fender. Then loosen the upper and lower triple clamps. Loosen the clip ons. But before loosening the lower triple, loosen the fork tube top caps.
Drop out the legs. take off the top caps, pour out the oild, and compress the spring. I'd use a fork compressor, race tech makes a nice one. Loosen the top cap from the damping rod. Remove the top cap then pump out the rest of the oil from the damper.
Next, remove the outer dust seal. Remove circlip. Then you need to just extend the fork several times quickly to "bang" out the oil seal and bushings.
The outer bushings, if they look good, need to be gently pryed off using a thin flat head screw driver in the **** of the bushing. Same with the inner bushing. Now the oil seal, metal washer and circlip all come out together. Remember the order.
Lube up the new seals with fresh oil. put back on the fork lowers in the same order they were taken off. Replace bushings at the same time if there's any brass showing. I usually do it any way since the seals seem to go at the same rate as the bushings for me.
Once back together, seat the seals. There's a tool for this, but I usually **** the old oil seal so I can get it on the lower fork tube between the new oil seal and new dust seal. and I quickly compress (bang) the fork a few times until the groove on the upper leg is showing so the circlip will lock back on. Probably not recommended but I haven't ruined a dust seal in about 20 years now.
Fill fork with proper oil viscosity and volume (don't remember how much or weight for zx7s). cycle the damper about 20 times to make sure they're full of oil too. insert spring, re-compress, lock on top cap to damping rod. screw on top cap. reassemble fork on bike. Remember to torque the top cap with the top triple clamp loose otherwise the caps can bind.
Posted on Jun 11, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 12, 2015 | 1989 kawasaki ZXR 750
Mar 04, 2011 | 1990 kawasaki ZXR 750
Jan 15, 2011 | 1993 kawasaki ZXR 750
Apr 10, 2010 | 1993 kawasaki ZXR 750
Oct 10, 2009 | 1990 kawasaki ZXR 750
Jun 16, 2009 | 1989 kawasaki ZXR 250
Apr 25, 2009 | 1990 kawasaki ZXR 750
Apr 05, 2009 | 1989 kawasaki ZXR 750
120 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: