The neutral light on my 97 trident 900 goes out when the engine is warm, I have replaced the neutral sensor but still the same. When i put the bike in neutral with the bike warm and the light out and put the kickstand down the bike cuts out. It does not cut out if the light is on. Any ideas
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: neutral light goes out when warm
The sidestand kill switch is working properly, no issue there. I would try a can of freeze spray when the neutral light is out and attempt to cool various points in the circuit. Pay particular attention to where the sensor wiring enters the rest of the wiring harness or the fusebox area, I suspect a broken wire.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
u cud chec service bulletins or recalls--bring a tire repair system and hav a deer warning whistle-they often run across roads------I take breaks often-its more enjoyable--had a 650 stil feel the shoulder pain from those dam bars
Sound like the neutral switch is buggered? a lot of people bypass this by simply unplugging it from the loom. The pulling in the clutch to start is another safety thing & often that switch craps out & gives problems.
Both my clutch & neutral switches are bypassed as there are no spares shops in the desert.
THE NEUTRAL LIGHT WORKS WITH A PERMENANT LIVE TO THE BULB, AND THE EARTH IS MADE WHEN YOU PUT THE BIKE INTO NEUTRAL BY THE MEANS OF A SWITCH, NORMALY LOCATED CLOSE TO THE FRONT SPROCKET, THIS WIRE CAN GET DAMAGED OR TRAPED LOCATE THE SWITCH, REMOVE THE WIRE AND THEN CHECK IF THE LIGHT GOES OUT, IF THIS WORKS AND THE LIGHT COMES ON WHEN YOU REPLACE THE WIRE, ASSUMING THERE ARE NO BREAKS IN THE INSULATION OF THE WIRE YOU COULD HAVE A FAULTY SWITCH ,IF THE LIGHT STAYS ON WHEN YOU REMOVE THE WIRE FROM THE SWITCH THE PROBLEM MAY BE EARTHING CLOSER TO THE CLOCKS, DO YOU HAVE AN AFTERMARKET GEAR INDICATOR FITTED TO THIS BIKE, IF SO CHECK ALL WIRE CONNECTIONS, SIMPLE CHECKS
i dont understand, the bike shouldent start in gear with the lever out it would jump forward when you hit the start button.. there is nothing wrong with the bike by what you say its just a neutral light, witch is a switch find the neutral indicator switch and replace it and your probelms will go away or test the one you have it should test 13ohms in neutral and OL in gear
let me know how you make out
You will find it is generally a well engineered thing, most of the weak points are electrical.
There are many threads here concerning ignition pick up coil failure and HT coil failure. Pick up coil problems usually involve the bike cutting out when its warm and re-starting when its cold. HT coil problems bring about rough running.
There is a bolt in the alternator drive which is prone to failure, it will manifest itself as a rattle from the top left of the engine when it is idling. Triumph have a kit of re-designed parts to fix it.
I get thoroughly bored with the brake calipers, they are forever seizing / binding. Either the sliding body binding on its pins or a piston binding on the dust seal. I have that problem right now and it needs fixing (again). It is one thing that puts me off uprating the calipers, twice as many pistons to seize as there are now. (dont have this problem with the Lockheed or Brembo calipers on other bikes). This is on a bike that is used every day.
You may find that on a bike of that age that the rubber petrol pipes and vacuum hoses will have hardened and may leak or split when you disconnect them, that may cause bad running or cause the petrol tap not to open due to poor vacuum.
I have had trouble with wear in the carbs, but parts were replaced and it is now OK. Mikuni carb. bikes are thirsty, expect low 30s mpg.
I have also been through several sets of wheel bearings over the years, but they are easy enough to replace.
I have not modified my bike, it is still largely as it left the factory (apart from some grime and rust).
The only times my 'dent had no acceleration, it wasn't firing on all 3. Easy check: start the bike, let it idle for a couple minutes, spray water from a spray bottle on each header. Chances are, there'll be a cold header from a cylinder not firing due to a bad coil.