Question about Motorcycles
First step remove the seat. then you will see the shock, If you remove the side covers (left as you were sitting on the bike) you should see it also. This is where you will detrmine the preload by the number there. (from what I was told on here, Just had a similiar problem too stiff)then take you spanner wrench out of your tool kit and tighten to the desired preload. I have mine set on 3 and it seems to good it was set on 8 and that was way too hard for me. So try a couple and see what you like. Here is a link also that may help you can download a manual for your bike. http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
Posted on Jan 16, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you don't have a centerstand so you'll need a racestand or ATV jack to raise your bike up off the floor..Disconnect rear brake linkage, unbolt and remove axle, roll tire forward a couple inches and remove chain from rr sprocket, have tire fixed or replaced..reinstall is opposite of removal...Good Luck to you friend....Tim
Posted on May 11, 2009
The seal under the dirt seal on the fork was leaking when I picked the bike up from the owner. left the fork oil under the dirt seal kept bouncing the forks up and down for 4 days the seal got soft from the fork oil so I pulled the dirt seal up then cleaned the fork oil under it with a rag then checked it for leaks then pushed dirt seal back down in the groove and its not leaking now 200 miles and still dry.
Posted on Jun 07, 2009
Clamps rite on frame at radiator.mounting hardware should come with bar.put rubber patch on frame to protect custom frame paint.
Posted on Mar 22, 2010
First thing is to prop the bike up on a motorcycle jack or some other jack-If yo have a a motorcycle jack that has eyelets on the frame strap the front end down, this will eliminate the steering to flop around while you are working on. If you still have your tool set their is a tool that you can use if not you would need to purchase a 17MM allen wrench (I think). First their is two capped allen screws that will need to be loosened (not so much taken off) with one of the supplied allen wrenches in your kit or a 5mm allen wrench should do the trick. The front axel just screws in to the other fork-after you start removing the axel take stock which spacer/speedo gear goes where. The speedo cable can be removed from the gear by removing the phillips head screw. The front tire and rotor should just slide down with out to much trouble.
Posted on Jun 24, 2010
Any oil with the JASO MA motorcycle certification. 10w-40 for cold climate, 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label. It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Synthetic oil will help your bike run cooler and shift easier. You will need 4 quarts of oil , an oil filter, and a new aluminum sealing washer for the drain plug.
Posted on Oct 02, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
May 26, 2014 | 2002 Honda VT 600 CD Shadow
Dec 02, 2013 | 1993 Honda VT 600 C Shadow
Jun 11, 2012 | 1996 Honda VT 600 C Shadow
Dec 13, 2011 | Motorcycles
Nov 03, 2010 | 2007 Honda VT 750 Shadow
Aug 23, 2010 | 2005 Honda VT 600 C Shadow
Mar 07, 2010 | 2003 Honda VT 600 C Shadow
Jul 07, 2009 | 1993 Honda VT 600 C Shadow
1,706 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!