Question about Motorcycles
When you want to remove that bolt with heat,the first thing you want to do is soak it up with pb blaster, this is an excellant penetrating catalyst available at walmart and others.Let it work for 20 minutes and then heat up the part of the caliper that the bolt threads into and not the bolt itself,HEAT EXPANDS,this is why you wouldn't heat up the bolt.And use a lot of heat,enough to make the metal glow red.Propane is not that hot,map gas is a lot better. Hope this helps,Bill
Posted on Jan 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Don't know if it is the same as on my 05 Kingpin but there is simply the axle nut holding it on and a groove in the swing arm. Once the axle nut is removed and axle is punched out of the way you must shimmy the caliper and it's male block casting down the channel in the swing arm to where there is a square cut out in the swing arm, once there it will just drop out of the swing arm. Putting it back is the same but. painful set-up compared to a few bolts.
Posted on Dec 21, 2009
SOURCE: changing rear brake pads..
if the 04 is the same as my 05 ultra (and i belive it is) the rear caliper can not be removed with out pulling the axel out, and taking the 3 big star bolts out will split the caliper in half, (it is a 2 peice)
take the 2 small star bolts out, use a stiff putty knife to push the pistons back, before you pull the old pads out, make sure you take the cover off the master, slip new pads in, start with the frount and put the bolts thru to hold it then the rear
when you retighten the bolts you want the hear a "pop" that means the rear tip of the bolt is past the retaining spring, if you dont hear a pop the bolts will work there way out, (found this out the hard way, $129 new rotor, $195 new caliper)
Posted on Nov 16, 2009
SOURCE: Rear Brake hanging up
front caliper is cool to the touch. Bike has about 2000 miles on it. I looked on the website and was floored by the price of a new caliper. Wondering what my options are.Sounds like a brake pedal adjustment. You should call our tech line for help with the adjustment procedure,
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
Sometimes the disc gets a lip on the outer edge that the pads will catch on, preventing the caliper from coming off. Grab the caliper, with the piston side in your fingers, and pull on it with constant, even pressure. Now, I'm not talking 200 ft lbs,just enough to compress the piston back into the caliper a little. It should come right off after that.
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
If you're trying to replace the pads, you shouldn't have to remove the rear wheel. Now. Sometimes Harley plays tricks on the owners and the mechanics. If it's approaching a "year change" and they run out of parts for the current year, they'll go ahead and switch to the later year model parts. In other words, your '99 model may have 2000 year model brakes on it.
Now, since I can't see the bike, all I have to go by is a few books. If this is the case, I won't know it so I'll have try something else. Look at the rear caliper. If look "inside" of the caliper you'll see the two pads. Are the two pads held in by two pins that run horizonally though the caliper halves and the pads? If so, you have the newer four piston calipers. If you've taken any bolts out of this caliper, the caliper is probably trying to split into two pieces. If this is the case, replace the bolts and tighten the well. Then, using a punch, drive the two pins out the backside of the caliper. There should be a metal piece that is an anti-rattle spring that will come out. Use a large screwdriver inserted between the rotor and the pad to gently pry the pad and the two pistons on the that side back into the caliper. Leave that screwdriver in there and use another to pry the pad and pistons on the other side back. Don't get too aggressive when doing this. The pistons move slowly just put enough pressure on the old pad so that the piston move into the caliper. If you don't do this, you will not be able to get the new pads in. Once you have the piston fully compressed into the caliper, lift the old pads out and drop the new pads in with the fiber side towards the rotor. Install the anti-rattle spring and the two pins. I would be a good idea to bleed the brakes and make sure you have a full firm pedal before you ride the bike.
If you don't see the pads or pins, you have the earlier dual piston caliper. Once you have the two bolts out, you may have to "rock" the caliper inward and outward a bit to compress the pistons back into the caliper a bit and break them loose from the pads. Once you get the caliper off, use a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to compress the pistons all the way into the caliper. Use some rags or thin wooden pieces to protect the paint and finish on your caliper. Remove the old pads and replace them with the fiber side towards the rotor. Put the caliper back on and tighten the bolts. Depress the rear brake pedal a few times until you get a full pedal. You may wish to bleed the brakes a bit to ensure there is no air in the system. Make sure you have a full firm pedal before you ride the bike and that the brakes work properly.
If you still cannot get the caliper off, I would suggest that you take the bike to a qualified mechanic since something else may be wrong. Brakes is THE ONE THING YOU DON'T WANT TO TAKE A CHANCE ON. If your bike quits, you pull off the road and get mad. If your brakes don't work when you need them, you get hurt or worse. If you experience anymore problems, let a qualified mechanic have a look at them.
Posted on Nov 21, 2010
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