Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

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Put a volt meter on my 2000 fat boy, and at idle it is 14.03, but at higher rpm, it spikes to 17.02......is it the regulator, and if so, which is the best to replace it. I've gone through 3 batter

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  • 234 Answers

Yup that is the voltage regulator not doing it's job. If you don't know how to replace it visit an auto sparky these guys don't usually don't charge like wounded bulls.

Posted on Jan 15, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: harley davidson dyna low rider 2003 battery does not last when ri

I had this problem on my ultra clasic. I found a ground wire loose. you will have to locate all ground wires. and don,t frget the one on the battery.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Ultra Classic. Above 2000RPM, the volt meter

Dont do that, your voltage regulator is faulty. It is in the alternator. Max charging voltage should be 14.2 and min 13.6v. Chk battery water level. but get an alternator 4 sure

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

  • 173 Answers

SOURCE: My 06 Ultra Glide has a spike from 10-14 volts

Check plug on front of engine where charging system plugs in. Faulty plug connection possible.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

czaa
  • 4514 Answers

SOURCE: Voltage Regulator Problem?

u want to chec alternator as well-ther r test u can do so buy a clymer manual which r very detailed-iv seen hd books in library sec 629

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Want to replace rear brake pads 1995 Harley Fat boy

Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.

To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.

Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.

Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.

Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

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2 Answers

How can I tell if my voltage regulator is working properly?


Hi Tom, for more information about your question please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
Stock motorcycle regulator rectifier check out

Jun 08, 2015 | 1993 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

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Why won't it start?


I'd look for a major fuse, switch, Relay Melted wires or insulation. So the battery drained overnight? Which indicates a bad short somewhere. I like to use the new led bright flashlight to do a through inspection of the wiring system in the dark.

Jun 08, 2015 | 1993 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

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Also the voltage regulator will cause higher voltage in this circuit and keep the turn signals from working properly. take a volt meter and with the engine running at idle,put the red lead on the positive (+) terminal of the battery (red) and the negative lead (black) on the - side of the battery. Your reading for a normal charging bike at idle is 12.5 to 14.2 volts...rev the engine and see if the voltage spikes past 14.5 to 16 + voltage then you know the regulator is at fault and needs replaced.

May 22, 2014 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

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1990 HARLEY 1340 FUSE BOX LOCATION


Hi Anonymous, main circuit breakers are underneath the instrument panel or seat. But more than likely it's your alternator or voltage regulator. Ther are a few things you can do to isolate the problem. Start with a charged battery 12.5 volts or better and cables are clean and tight as with all your electrical connections. Disconnect your alternator plug and with a muliti meter set it to the lowest ohms scale, one lead to ground the other to any alternator wire the meter should read zero, do the same with the other wire. Next touch both wires with meter leads you should get 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. Also put one lead to ground and one lead to voltage regulator mounting bolt or stud the meter should read zero. Then switch your meter to the AC volts scale fire up the bike and the meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1,000 RPM the tach reads, if you have no tach it should read 16 to 20 at an idle. If all the numbers check out ok then you have a good stator and probablly rotor. Remove your voltage regulator and check for swelling, cracks or burnt smell/look. If your going to throw parts at it start with the voltage regulator. A normal charging system will read 14.3 to 14.7 volts DC at the battery with the engine at 3,000 RPM. Good luck

Apr 14, 2014 | 1993 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

1 Answer

Low RNG


Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

Nov 14, 2013 | 2011 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat Boy

1 Answer

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Hi Anonymous, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for drop in aprerage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v while cranking replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor.
17. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Sep 22, 2013 | 1993 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

1 Answer

Voltage regulator rectifier


Hi Mike, perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12 volts or better after charging.
3. Make sure all connections are clean and tight especially the negative cable at both ends.
4. Hook up volt meter to battery and start engine, if meter falls below 9.5 v replace battery.
5. With engine running at 3600 RPM battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
6. Unplug voltage regulator from alternator at crankcase by front of primary cover.
7. To test voltage regulator go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
8. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace stator.
9. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace stator.
10. With volt meter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read
16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace rotor. Good luck

Jun 13, 2013 | 2011 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat Boy

1 Answer

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Sounds like a charging problem. Charge the battery, then start the bike. Run the rpm's up to 2000 while checking voltage at the battery with a volt meter (dc volts). Voltage should be 13.8-14.2dc volts. If you don't get close to these readings, the charging system isn't working properly.

May 07, 2012 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

1 Answer

Erratic speedometer and odometer when under throttle, just replaced battery because of acid comming out of it, is this a voltage regulator problem


To test the voltage regulator, with a fully charged battery in the bike, use a digital volt ohm meter to check the voltage output of the regulator. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS with a range of 20 volts or higher. Connect the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery. Start the bike and bring the engine to a high idle. After a minute or so, your meter should read 14.5 to 15 volts. Any higher, you may have a bad regulator.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 05, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard

1 Answer

Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not holding charge. What should stator be putting out on voltage meter? Voltage meter climbs as rpms go up, I would presume that this indicates stator ok? Bike...


First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.

To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.

To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.

Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.

I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.

Dec 30, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

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