Question about 2004 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat Boy

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No break lights and no signal lights and dash lights

It happened when the battery went dead and I jumped it off with a battery charger

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  • 314 Answers

  1. Standard Maintenance Schedule
    • The oil and filter should be changed at the first 1,000 miles, then 5,000 miles, then every 5,000 miles thereafter. The transmission lubricant should also be changed with the first 1,000 miles, then every 10,000 miles, along with the spark plugs. The following should also be tended to:
      * At 10,000 miles, the steering head bearings need lubricating.
      * At 20,000 miles, lubricate the steering head bearings again and adjust them if necessary. Also, change the front fork oil.
      * At 25,000 miles, lubricate the master cylinder pistons, the front brake lever pin and the brake caliper pins. Replace the brake caliper boots, bushings and the rubber components in the master cylinders and calipers.
      * At 30,000 miles, replace the rear fork bearings.
    Maintenance for Winter Storage
    • Putting your bike away for the winter entails more than parking it in the garage. You want to store it in prime condition so that it runs properly when you restart it. Storing your machine for the winter entails:
      * Changing the oil and filter.
      * Adding fuel stabilizer and running the bike so the fluid flow through the fuel system.
      * Remove the battery and plug it into a battery tender that will keep it charged through the winter or run your bike for a few minutes every few weeks to keep the battery charged.
      * Properly inflate the tires and move the bike occasionally to even out the tire pressure.
      * Clean the bike, polish your chrome and aluminum surfaces, wash the windshield and treat the leather surfaces with a protector.
      * Store it indoors, or cover the Harley with a motorcycle cover, to protect it from the elements.
    Pre-Ride Check List
    • Inspecting your Harley whenever you ride is a good idea, but it should always be done before you go on a long trip. A pre-ride review should consist of the following check points:
      * Your fluids.
      * Your controls, such as the brakes, throttle and steering.
      * Your tire pressure.
      * Your breaks.
      * Your lights, like your signals, headlights and tail lights.
      * Your mirrors, to make sure they are properly adjusted.
      * Your battery.
      * Inspect for leaks related to oil, fuel and hydraulics.
      * Examine the drive belt and sprockets.
    Tires
    • Make sure the tires are inflated so they wear properly and the bike handles normally. Check that both tires have their valve stems and they are in good condition. Test that your wheel spokes are tight by lightly running a screwdriver tip over them. A loose spoke sounds different than those with the correct tension.
    Battery
    • A battery's terminals and connectors should be kept clean. Test that the clamps and cables are tight since loose connections are usually the culprit when it comes to sudden battery failure. Keep the vent tube clear of any kinks and/or blockages.
    Brakes
    • The rotors to your brakes need to have a smooth surface that's free of debris. Examine where the brake pads come in contact with the rotors to see if there's any discoloration. Check your manual to verify the proper thickness of your brake pads.
    Lights
    • It's a good idea to have a friend look at your lights--front, back, brake and blinkers--while you flip the switches. You can use a wall or window for a reflection if you are testing them alone.

Posted on Jan 14, 2013

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Related Questions:

2 Answers

Something is draining my battery 134,000 M


IT costs nothing to have a load test done on the battery to check for a dead cell which your problems point to. While the engine is running the alternator will be handling the power requirement but the battery will not supply the power required to start.

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My 2004 Navigator says check Advacetrac when I start it up and the light stays on. this happened after my battery went bad and it had to be jumped off a couple times before I installed new battery?


Bad Wheel speed sensor -- a possible cause

You have the MIL Lamp lite,so you should have
checked for codes & given then to us

You will need a repair shop obviously

NEVER jump a dead battery
dangerous practice,alway use a battery charger

Don't use your vehicle to help someone else,or you
may have even more problems. Too much in the way
of electronics to continue as in the 1970's & 80's,
jumping other cars from yours

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I have a 2006 Dodge Charger. Went out yesterday, car started fine. Got home and stooped at my mailbox, when I went to start the car it wouldn't start. I did notice the lights on the dash would go dim...


I'd start with a battery first. Sounds like the battery has 1 or more dead cells in it. the battery may have all the volts you could want but if it doesn't have the proper amperage it won't crank the motor. You can have the battery load tested for free at Auto Zone or Advance Auto. A simple down and dirty test would be to disconnect the Positive cable and jump the vehicle by connecting directly to that and a good ground on the block. The motor should turn over as long as the vehicle you use as a jump has the proper amperage in it's battery. If the vehicle starts then it is the battery, if it doesn't then you need to look at the starter and other components.

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My truck Is a F250 Triton V 10. I went to start it this morning and it turnd over once and just went dead no dash lights no anything like the battery was gone. I checked the batter cables and they are in...


Check the connection at the battery itself. This sounds like a classic case of loose battery terminals. Get a wrench and make sure they're tight. If this doesn't work, jump start the truck and take to a shop and have the battery load tested and the charging system checked. You may need a new battery.

Jan 17, 2011 | 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab

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My daughters 2005 Ford Taurus went dead after leaving her lights on accidently after only 10 minutes. Someone jumped her and all was well. Since then ,every once in a while, ALL of her signal/trouble...


if lights flattened battery after 10 mins then its a new battery as no reserve amperage ,as for the lights on the dash i have no idea to be honest without a play with it

Nov 30, 2010 | 2005 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Had a dead battery Thursday a.m. got a boost. Took it to have the battery tested. Guy told me it was 5 years old, testing not bad but recommended a new battery with winter coming. Today. dead battery...


There is a switch above the break peddle that is adjustable for the break lights. This is running your battery down that is why the gauges are jumping. Change the battery.. If it is 5 years old draining it dead will kill the cells. Hope this helps.

Oct 20, 2010 | Pontiac Montana SV6 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 99 camry the went dead and i tried to jump it the horn blows good the head lights comes on but when i turn the key it says nothing the dash lights doesnt come on its like its not getting any power


There could be several reasons for your problem:
  1. Check your connections for tightness and corrosion. A corroded battery cable/post will diminish the current going to the dead battery.
  2. Check jumper connections
  3. Dead battery; the worse off the battery is, the more time it will take to charge the battery sufficiently enough to start the car; a completely dead battery with bad cells will never recharge sufficiently enough to hold a charge and start the car on a regular basis
Hope this answers your question. Best of luck.
Greg

Sep 04, 2009 | 1999 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

2003 VW Golf won't start - battery was charged


You need to charge your battery up more. Either get a battery charger or leave the jumper cables hooked up for a longer period of time.
Your battery was probably completely dead. You might even need a new battery...they really don't like to be completely drained.

Dec 04, 2008 | 2003 Volkswagen Golf

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