Question about Yamaha YZF-R1 Motorcycles

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Oil bearly leaking by kick stand after riding hard 09 r1??

It's bearly couple of drops.. looked everywhere, removed plastics and all can't seem to find the leak

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Hi, Fdaylac you may have a bad shift shaft seal for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Oil leak by kickstand somewhere HELP
Small oil leak behind kickstand
OEM parts for Yamaha

Posted on Aug 24, 2016


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 75 Answers

SOURCE: Leakin oil out of rear on my 07' v-star 1100 custom

Once your bike and the oil warms up crevasses can become more leak prone and oil becomes less dense making it easier for it to find its way through open spots. I would get the bike warm and then with the bike still running do a close up inspection to search for the trouble spot. Hopefully its just a top end gasket which has usually been the case with me.

Posted on May 11, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: oil leak from tube

Sounds like your hose for draining the engine oil to me, there is a plug in the hose with a screw-ring that should be tight round the hose before it slips into a spring clamp on the bottom of the frame just behind the gearbox on your bike, hence just in front of the rear wheel. I suggest you have a look there to start with anyway

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

  • 1508 Answers

SOURCE: Oil leak on KX85 - looks like gasket pinched from

you will need a new gasket

Posted on Apr 09, 2010

  • 267 Answers

SOURCE: Why is my motorcycle leaking oil from the overflow tube

You have a crankcase breather hose that may be blocked, allowing excessive oil pressure to push oil out. It should be routed to the airbox. This may also be the overflow hose you are speaking about. Your oil type may not be suited to a motorcycle engine, automotive oils are NOT suitable for bike engines for many reasons, notably shared gearbox and engine oil and a wet clutch. Check function of the oil pressure switch as this should send a signal of loss or excessive oil pressure. Check your manual for correct weight and quantity and type of oil filter needed. The oil level is indicated on the stem of the oil filler cap.

Posted on May 13, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1993 VT 1100 C Shadow: Leaking oil on left side above kick stand...

Based off my experience today...which lasted several hours of researching this same issue on my 1993 Honda Shadow vt1100, it's most likely not oil but is rather fluid leaking out of the master cylinder that operates the clutch mechanism. I'm assuming you have a hydraulic clutch like mine. Directly above the kick stand is a metal plate that looks like it could be part of the engine but has an 8mm bolt holding it on at the bottom. Take that off and directly in front of you is your cylinder. You should inspect the lines and bleed the clutch lines to make sure that air isn't you issue. Beyond that you are where I am now.....did all that stuff but can't figure out my issue. Just thought I could catch you up at least that far and save you a little time.

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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I have a moto guzzi sport 1100 1996.No oil leaks from rear wheel when standing but spots of oil on wheel and tyre after riding a few miles.Any help would be appreciated

oil leaks during use indicate a loose bearing adjustment allowing the oil to move past the seal lip when rotating
I would be checking wheel bearing condition and adjustment, oil level in that section and wear groove for where the oil seal lip runs
reasoning is , when the wheel is stationary the oil is not being splashed around and will settle in the lowest places
when moving , if the seal housing is allowed to move separate to the axle position ( wobble , up down sideways etc) then small gaps appear between the seal lip and what it runs on and so oil is allowed to escape
if it is a drive shaft to the rear wheel check the output shaft to the wheel for movement ( bad bearings , adjustment/ preload ) or anything that will not keep the shaft in the center of the seal

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Replace main rear seal on a 2005 cayenne s

Lots of tools!!! engine crane, engine stand, tranny stand, fluid collections buckets (collant, engin oil, tranny oil, transfer case fluid.
Remove transfer case, remove tranny. drop oil pan, lossen off rear eng bearing and remove slowly, remove seal materiial from upper seal have, install new seal material in both halfs, reinstall bearing and turgue to specs for bearing, install new seal and reinstall oil pan, reinstall trannt, reinstall transfer case, refill all fluids. start it up and check for leaks everyday for next week. it take 2 people to reomove case and tranny. it wiil take 16-18 hours of constant work for an experienced DYI

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Bmw1150rt. oil leaking from centre of the wheel rim and from wheel stud holes. prior to this had a wheel bearing replaced together with the oil seal etc, (this done by bmw) only leaks if on the side stand...

Sounds like the bearing is going bad again. The "oil " you're looking at is wheel bearing grease leaking out. If the bearing was bad in new condition or it was installed improperly you will have to replace it again. I would take it back to the dealer that installed it in the first place and complain. Of course that depends on the amount of time it has been since the work was done.

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1995dodge Durango slt 4x4 oil pressure keeps dropping but dose come back..I replaced sending unit.still same problem existing..I just drained the oil it looks kinda funny..kinda slushy with super fine Meta...

With fluctuating oil pressure and metal in the oil you have a fault in the bearings on the crankshaft ( probably main bearing slipper spinning in cap) Best way is to pull the engine , put in stand and tip up side down Quicker in the long run

May 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Is it worth it to fix a 99 F250 SD that has a rear main seal blown on the engine?

Until the engine is sealed you will not know how much oil is burned. Price the parts. Difference too in whether its a 4x4 or easy access 2 wheel drive.

Check rear seal type to see if it can be changed by pulling trans and flywheel. If stick shift, probably good idea to replace clutch disc to verify not oil soaked. If automatic, oil is no consequence.

Kind of matters how much is wrong. With trans out, some rear engine seals can be replaced without removing oil pan. But if bearings are bad, on 2 wheel drive you may be able to squeeze off oil pan and check bottom of bearings.

You can do poor man's bearing job with plastic-gage. Rod bearings can probable be switched 100%. Main bearings lower cap can be serviced with upper 1/2 left in place. Not ideal, but can save from pulling motor.

Value depends on whether your Labor is free. You have a 14 Year ol truck. Depends on what you already replaced to maintain it or what else it will need. You could need rings after working on the bottom end even with a poor man's bearing job. Plastic Gage can tell you the size you need for each bearing. Then keep track and only buy individual sizes.

If you could find a wrecked truck with a good engine, places like have a good multilist. Rule of thumb is different for each person. I would look hard at spending 1/2 of what truck is worth to fix it, knowing other things are wrong.

Mar 19, 2013 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2007 kymco xciting 500 drips oil near kick stand

this means you have to keep checking your oil more often, try this clean a big portion around the oil dripping make sure is clean when you finish you can turn the moped on give it a little gas,right away check for the oil leak once you spot it that would be your starting point.
good luck!

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The rear shock on my et4 scooter is very tight and when riding at the moment it is very bouncy and the back end swings

Sounds like it has burst a seal and leaked all of its oil out, is there still oil ont he suspension leg? I had this last year on my Yamaha Fino, it's very dangerous to continue riding on it!

Loosen rear plastics on the suspension side. Fix the bike on its center stand to take the weight, the rear wheel will drop down.

Loosen the double nut at the top part of the shock. Once released, this makes it easier to get to the bottom bolts. Remove these, replace with a new shock.

Maybe go for a firmer spring/shock if you carry passengers. I've regularly got two on the bike so I went for a 230lb spring.

Hope this helps and vote for me please if it does.

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The armature bearing appears to be frozen to the armature. Can it be replaced?

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