My tag light had a wire that was bare. it shorted out and now none of the lights or gauge works. traced the wires under the seat and noticed there is no fuse. the wires go to a little black box located a top of the battery. being that there was no fuse,could that box have burnt out and went bad?
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By 'running lights' I assume you mean the front amber lights that are NOT the turn signals, and the rear red lights that are NOT the brake lights. All of the bulbs involved--front and rear--are part of this running light circuit; and you need to be able to trace those wires, to find out which one is in trouble. To do this, you must have a schematic wiring diagram (hopefully in COLOR) so you can identify those wires. To be blowing the fuse as soon as you turn the key on, there has to be a dead-short to ground somewhere in that circuit. One of those wires is bare, or pinched to metal where it shouldn't be. Before you can actually trace the wires, you need the schematic to identify them. If you start tearing the bike apart and pulling on every wire you see; you're liable to do more harm than good--but if you do find a 'bare wire', you might fix it by accident!
Oil light switch is a normally closed unit so first off test with an ohmmeter to see if there is an open which would not complete the circuit not allow the light to work.Then check to see if there is any current to the oil switch. If there is you could jumper the wire to ground which if the light then goes on indicates that the switch is bad. If no current to the switch you will have to trace back and find out where the open in the circuit is.
There may be no oil pressure due to lack of oil or a faulty oil pump. Check the oil level and add oil if low, then restart the engine and verify that the oil pressure light goes off and that the oil gauge indicates pressure. If the problem still exists you will need to check out the oil pump.
If the gauge shows oil pressure but the light does not go off it may be that the contacts in the pressure sending unit are not opening to break the circuit and shut off the light.
If the gauge does not show pressure it may be that the variable resistor in the sender is shorted to ground.
Locate the oil pressure sending unit on the front right side of the crankcase and verify that the electrical connector is properly connected to the sending unit. If the oil pressure gauge indicates pressure but the low oil pressure light remains on remove the electrical connector from the oil pressure sending unit and using a small jumper wire place one end on the indicator lamp terminal (the closest to the latch on the sending unit) and place the other end on the crankcase. The Ohmmeter must read less than one ohm. THEN start the engine and run at a fast idle. The ohmmeter must read infinity (OL). Replace the sending unit if the above meter readings are not obtained.
If the low oil pressure light functions correctly, but the pressure gauge does not, remove the electrical connector from the oil pressure sending unit, turn the ignition switch to IGNITION and the gauge must read zero. Ground the (BN/GN) wire terminal to the crankcase. The gauge must read full scale (60 PSI). Replace the sending unit if the above gauge readings are obtained but if the gauge readings are not obtained, replace the pressure gauge.
If there is no power to the gauge diagnose the cause could be broken or disconnected leads to the gauge or an open gauge winding. Test by switching the ignition switch to IGNITION and verify that 12VDC is present at "+ terminal on the gauge, then with the ignition switch turned to OFF check the ground terminal for continuity to ground. Replace the gauge if 12VDC is present and ground terminal is grounded. If 12VDC is not present, trace wiring until disconnected or broken wire is found and repair as necessary. If ground terminal is not grounded, repeat the procedure used to trace a for 12VDC lead.
The power lead fro the oil pressure and neutral switch is an orange wire on pin 6 of a 10 pin connector.
Sounds like you have a dead short in the circuit. Get out the VOM and remove the fuse. Remove the bulb(s) that are powered by this fuse. On the load side of the fuse holder check for continuity to ground, there should be none. If there is start tracing wires, that means there is a bare wire touching ground or a switch has gone bad.
The turn signals on my 2005 Honda Shadow Aero 750 also kept blowing the fuse every time I turned them on,discovered a short circuit in the wiring harness running from the instrument cluster to the turn signals etc.whenever the handlebar was turned fully towards the right the bare wire would make contact with the frame causing a short circuit and blow the fuse.Corrected this by taping the bare wire very carefully. Problem solved.
you have a direct to ground short in the wiring for these two guages. You will need to trace the wiring back to see if you can locate any breaks or bare spots that would allow this ground short and repair