Question about 1996 Suzuki GSX-R 750 T

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I have a 1997 750 suzuki and my petcock is leaking after i got a new one. can i place a little gasket sealer around the o ring on it to insure that it will not leak no more

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  • 11 Answers

Yes, just make sure its the kind that gas wont eat it up.

Posted on Jan 16, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: oil leak from the front of the motor

Its funny you should mention this but yes, I had its bigger brother the GS 850 G , same problem, Apparently, in my situation I did the same thing and went to the shop and let those butchers make it worse !!!, the way i found my leak was by washing the motor with a grease and oil cleaner , strayed the whole motor and wash it all off totally, then I turn her on and let her get to operating temp went for a few mile and came back and checked it, for me it was the head gasket   the guys put on and i forced them to do it again,  I found out later that it was common with the suzi's of that model and ended up doing it myself, I used the original gasket and used a compound called gasket goo and it never leaked through out the 8 years i had it . But before you do anything , surly they gave you warrant y on the work so take it back and demand they do it properly.
Cheers and ride safe

Posted on May 18, 2009

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SOURCE: Fuel leak where fuel tube goes into carb.

Turn the petcock valve off and the flow should stop. If the fuel line is long enough, cut the broken line just above the break then re-attach to the nipple.

Posted on May 22, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: leaks a little oil around front head bolt tighted down did not fi

Mine had the same problem. I had to remove the head cover assembly and reseal it with new silicone.

Posted on Jan 17, 2010

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SOURCE: My '92 drs 350 has a leaky fuel petcock. it is a

It may be ok , but many bikes flood when sitting over night and fill the sump with fuel. if the carb float doesnt quite seal.
Not sure about epa , I think it shouldnt be a problem unless carb overflows and drips on the ground, during the inspection.

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

  • 1978 Answers

SOURCE: I just purchased an 86

I did a Suzuki 550 carburetor over haul 10 years ago and had 3 of the 4 intake manifolds crack or separate. I would start by closely inspecting the manifolds. Have you tried draining a carburetor bowl to see if it is full of gas? If the vacuum line to the fuel petcock is not hooked up correctly you could just have fuel starvation. You can hold a spark plug to a cylinder head and turn the motor over to see if you have spark. Correct amount of fuel, correct amount of air, and spark is what you need.
I just gave that answer to some one else. The fact is I had to remove and clean my carbs 4 times . Each time I did it, I got one more carb to idle. The last carb to work for me was the vacuum nipple carb. By the time I was done I had to replace all four manifolds they had all separated or cracked. To get my carburetors working I turned them upside down and shot through them with carburetor cleaner in the morning before work and in the evening after work. The reason it wont idle is the carburetor passageways are still plugged in the slow circuit. Carburetor cleaner , air pressure, and in my case time to get the blockage out of the bodies. When I was done it ran great.

Posted on Sep 21, 2010

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I'M replacing my head gasket on my 1983 RM250 Suzuki. Do I use gasket sealer or not? I know there are holes that the coolant goes through. Thank you.

I always used a little around the waterways. A lot depends on how good the gasket is and how clean you can get the surfaces.

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There are rebuild kits for most petcocks on bikes. I think the average kit is around 25 bucks, but sometimes as much a 40. Depending upon how much you have to spend or how much you care, there are a few gasket sealers that may work too. I've had luck with the 1 minute gasket sealer before, but gasoline is pretty harsh on anything like that. If you take it apart (should just be a couple of screws on the backside) see if you can find anything damaged and that the diaphragm is working. If not, replace that thing. If it is, well you can try and go the cheap route and use the sealer around the edge. Don't get a ton of it on there since it will break off inside if the excess goes there, and that can plug things up. Good luck..


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If this unit is new to you, return it for replacement or refund. If the repair is up to you, remove the head (top) of the gun and check the seal (either an 'O' ring or gasket) for damage. Check the head itself for damage or warping of the seal face. Try placing a small ring of Permatex silicon gasket sealer on the head, let cure for a little while until it sets-up, and reinstall the head. Tighten the screws evenly and firmly. Hope this helps!

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Oil leak at clutch cover suzuki 1996 gsf600s and engine red light is on

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White film inside fuel tank coming off.

Sorry - misunderstood.
sounds like Kreem tank sealer or similar (there are lots of brands...) - treat for same.

  • Work in a well ventilated area
  • Don't have ignition sources around (if you light-up, you might REALLY light-up!)
  • Be aware that acetone can eat away at a nice paint job, wipe it off immediately
  • Sucking acetone fumes into a shop vac can cause fire from the electric

1. two gallons of acetone
2. 3 foot length of chain - the type of brass chain used for plant hangers works well.
3. large drip pan
4. two fabricated petcock hole covers
5. tank epoxy from Caswell or other suitable tank conditioner(?)
6. shop vacuum that can be set to blow
7. baggies
8. optional expandable rubber plug for fuel fill hole
9. 10 mm wrench (open-end helps) for dealing with sender unit
10. wire cutter (may be needed for sender unit)
11. plenty of shop rags
12. replacement O-rings for petcock gaskets
PROCEDURE IN DETAIL: 1. drain tank of all gas
2. remove petcocks
3. remove fuel gage float/sender unit
4. fabricate covers to cover petcock holes
5. remove gaskets from petcocks
6. use petcock gaskets with fabricated covers and install on tank
7. disconnect lead wires from sender unit (may have to cut and then reattach later)
8. use gasket from sender unit, install sender unit backwards on tank with float on the outside
9. pour chain into tank
10. pour gallon of acetone into tank
11. install leak proof cap (I suggest using an expandable rubber drain plug, but I just held the fuel cap down tight)
12. check for leaks
13. shake periodically, to remove rust and Kreem (keep in tank at least a day shake often enough to keep the Kreem damp prior to draining or it will re-solidify)
14. open one petcock hole and sender unit port and drain out the acetone saturated with Kreem and rust
15. remove chain - use a coathanger.
16. CAUTION acetone fumes are flammable and can ignite with the motor of a shop vacuum. Manually remove them.
17. reseal tank sender unit port and petcock holes
18. pour in 1/2 gallon of fresh acetone
19. shake often
20. remove one petcock cover
21. drain acetone into drip pan
22. replace petcock cover and gasket
23. filter the used acetone through a coffee filter into a mason jar (use the mason ring to hold filter)
24. pour in the filtered acetone (or use fresh)
25. add fresh if needed
26. shake periodically
27. repeat steps 20 to 25
28. remove petcock cover and drain tank contents
29. remove all other seals
30. use shop vac and hook it up for BLOWING.
31. Place hose over fuel filler hole and dry the inside of the tank very thoroughly (outside, of course)
32. Reseal petcock holes and sender unit port, but this time, use baggies between the tank and the gaskets to protect them from the resin. Note that I had to buy new O-rings anyway because my official Yamaha petcock gaskets were too deformed to seal after this process.
33. thoroughly mix the Caswell Tank epoxy (I used a drill attachment)
34. pour into the fuel filler hole and seal it.
35. rotate the tank, shake it, rotate it several minutes to cover all inside surfaces
36. continue for about 20 minutes or so (might depend on the temperature)
37. remove a petcock cover and drain excess epoxy
38. remove other petcock cover and sender unit
39. wipe off epoxy drips with acetone rag around open holes
40. let epoxy firm a little, install all screws with a drop of light machine oil, and then remove all screws to clear off threads, then let cure at least over night
41. Reassemble
That is, if you want to reseal it...

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